Every RVer needs to understand the importance of tires and proper tire pressure. The problem that can sometimes occur is while on the road, there is no available air support to check tire pressure. If you wait until you're on the road to check tire pressure, the tires are too hot for correct evaluation.
This is a common problem for RVers, and that is why you might want to consider a portable air compressor. Here are a few pointers when deciding what compressor to purchase: The rate that a compressor can deliver a volume of air is measured in cubic feet per minute (cfm). cfm varies with atmospheric pressure. It also varies with the temperature and humidity of the air.
Technically, air compressor manufacturers calculate standard cubic feet per minute (scfm) as cfm at sea level with 68 degrees F air at 36% relative humidity. Scfm ratings are given at a specific pressure (for example)3.0 scfm at 90 psi. If you reduce pressure, scfm goes up, and vice versa. I would recommend a model rated at about 4.9 cfm @90 psi The cfm and psi ratings are important because they will determine what a compressor is capable of doing.
The most important thing to determine when choosing a compressor is to make sure it can supply the amount of air and the pressure that your tires need. Many applications in garages and shops (like air tools) don't require 125 max psi, so they have a regulator to adjust the air. It may be necessary to increase this setting to inflate the tires.
Happy Camping!
Mark
Copyright 2007 by Mark J. Polk, owner of RV Education 101
RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. http://www.rveducation101.com/
Sign up for your free "RV Education 101" Newsletter http://rveducation101.com/email/
Running 2 RV AC Units at the Same Time
RV appliances require more power to START UP than they require to run after starting. For example a 15,000 BTU AC can draw 14 to 16 amps to start and once the compressor engages it may only require 12 to 13 amps to run. So the first problem is two AC's could potentially require 32 amps from a 30 amp system. If you have anything else on at the time, like the refrigerator, coffee pot etc. you may only have 20 or 25 amps available.
For two roof AC's to run and be able to use other appliances usually requires a 50 amp system. On 30 amp systems some manufacturers use energy management systems that will start one AC first and once it is up and running the second one will start. Then if you turn on another appliance and the system senses that there is an overload it automatically sheds one of the AC's until there is enough power available for it to start again.
If you attempt to run them both at the same time on shore power you would be using about 26 amps and depending on how many 12 volt devices you were using the converter itself could be using the remaining 4 amps which results in you not being able to use anything else in the RV. Another concern is if the campground voltage drops at all it can create additional problems. Usually if there is not enough power, damage to an AC unit will occur during initial start up.
A better solution for your RV would be to use a 13,500 BTU unit in the front and a much smaller unit like an 8,300 BTU in the rear of the RV. Some of the new AC units require much less energy to run. An 8,300 BTU unit only uses 8 amps versus 13 or 14. This would allow 21,800 BTUs to cool the RV rather than one 15,000 BTU AC trying to cool the RV.
Properly managing the amps being used in your RV can extend the life of your electrical system and appliances.
Happy Camping!
Mark
Copyright 2007 by Mark J. Polk, owner of RV Education 101
RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. http://www.rveducation101.com/
Sign up for your free "RV Education 101" Newsletter http://rveducation101.com/email/
For two roof AC's to run and be able to use other appliances usually requires a 50 amp system. On 30 amp systems some manufacturers use energy management systems that will start one AC first and once it is up and running the second one will start. Then if you turn on another appliance and the system senses that there is an overload it automatically sheds one of the AC's until there is enough power available for it to start again.
If you attempt to run them both at the same time on shore power you would be using about 26 amps and depending on how many 12 volt devices you were using the converter itself could be using the remaining 4 amps which results in you not being able to use anything else in the RV. Another concern is if the campground voltage drops at all it can create additional problems. Usually if there is not enough power, damage to an AC unit will occur during initial start up.
A better solution for your RV would be to use a 13,500 BTU unit in the front and a much smaller unit like an 8,300 BTU in the rear of the RV. Some of the new AC units require much less energy to run. An 8,300 BTU unit only uses 8 amps versus 13 or 14. This would allow 21,800 BTUs to cool the RV rather than one 15,000 BTU AC trying to cool the RV.
Properly managing the amps being used in your RV can extend the life of your electrical system and appliances.
Happy Camping!
Mark
Copyright 2007 by Mark J. Polk, owner of RV Education 101
RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. http://www.rveducation101.com/
Sign up for your free "RV Education 101" Newsletter http://rveducation101.com/email/
Winter Battery Storage
I was recently asked a question and felt like the answer could be useful to lots of RVers, so I am using the question as the topic for this article.
Q: Hi Mark, we live in Virginia and are preparing our RV for winter storage. I just had the RV winterized, but I am concerned about how or what to do to properly store my RV batteries. Do you have any advice?
Mark Says: The two most common causes for RV battery failure are undercharging and overcharging. Undercharging is a result of batteries being repeatedly discharged and not fully recharged between cycles. If a battery is not recharged the sulfate material that attaches to the discharged portions of the plates begins to harden into crystals. Over time this sulfate cannot be converted back into active plate material and the battery is ruined. This also occurs when a battery remains discharged for an extended period of time, like during storage. Sulfation is the number one cause of battery failure. The second leading cause of battery failure is overcharging. Overcharging batteries results in severe water loss and plate corrosion. With that said let’s look at how to properly store your RV batteries.
Before we talk about storing the batteries we need to talk about battery safety. Lead acid batteries contain sulfuric acid which is extremely corrosive and can cause severe burns or even blindness. And the hydrogen gas that batteries produce when they’re charging is very explosive. When you work around batteries you need to wear goggles and gloves, remove all jewelry and do not smoke or use any open flames.
Caution: If you accidentally get battery acid on your skin, flush it with lots of water and if it gets in your eyes flush with low pressure water for 15 minutes and call a doctor.
When you put the RV in long term storage it’s a good idea to remove the batteries and put them in storage too. This is quite simple to do. The first thing we want to do is visually inspect the batteries for any obvious damage. Any fluid on or around the battery may be an indication that electrolyte is leaking from the battery. A damaged or leaking battery should be replaced immediately. Whenever you remove any battery always remember to remove the negative terminal or cable first, and then the positive cable.
Battery Tip: When you remove a battery turn off the ignition switch, all electrical switches, and any battery disconnect switches before you disconnect the battery cables. Whenever you remove any battery cables label them first so you remember how they go back on the battery. When you reinstall the battery do it in the reverse order. Install the positive cable first and then the negative cable.
Clean the batteries with a 50/50 mixture of baking soda and water if necessary, i.e. use one pound of baking soda to one gallon of water. Now you can check the electrolyte level in each cell and add distilled water if necessary. The minimum level required is at the top of the plates. If it’s below the plates add enough distilled water to cover the plates before you charge the battery.
Test the battery state of charge with a voltmeter or hydrometer and charge any batteries that are at or below 80%. An 80% charge is approximately 12.5 volts for a 12 volt battery and 6.25 volts for a 6 volt battery. Lead sulfation starts when a battery state of charge drops below 80%. After charging the batteries check and fill each cell to 1/8 inch below the fill well with distilled water. Overfilling cells will cause battery acid to overflow.
Caution: Batteries should only be charged in a well ventilated area and keep any sparks and open flames away from a battery being charged. Check the electrolyte levels before and after charging batteries.
A discharged or partially charged battery will freeze much faster than a charged battery. Store the batteries in a cool dry place but not where they could freeze. Batteries in storage will loose a percentage of current through internal leakage. It’s not uncommon for a battery to discharge up to 10% a month when it is being stored. Cold temperatures slow this natural discharge process down and warmer temperatures speed the process up. Test the
stored battery state of charge every month and charge batteries that are at or below an 80% state of charge.
Completely charge the batteries before re-installing them next spring. For optimum performance you can equalize the batteries after they are fully charged. An equalizing charge is an increase in charging voltage similar to a bulk charge to convert any crystallized lead sulfate back into its original components.
If you decide to leave the batteries in the RV while it is in storage remember to check the state of charge monthly and charge any batteries at or below an 80% charge. Some RV converter multi-stage chargers and aftermarket chargers are designed to maintain a float charge on the battery without removing the batteries from the RV. Remember, for the converter charger to work the RV will need to be plugged in to electricity.
For more information on RV batteries check out our Deep Cycle Battery Care & Maintenance DVD available at www.rveducation101.com
Happy Camping,
Mark Polk
Q: Hi Mark, we live in Virginia and are preparing our RV for winter storage. I just had the RV winterized, but I am concerned about how or what to do to properly store my RV batteries. Do you have any advice?
Mark Says: The two most common causes for RV battery failure are undercharging and overcharging. Undercharging is a result of batteries being repeatedly discharged and not fully recharged between cycles. If a battery is not recharged the sulfate material that attaches to the discharged portions of the plates begins to harden into crystals. Over time this sulfate cannot be converted back into active plate material and the battery is ruined. This also occurs when a battery remains discharged for an extended period of time, like during storage. Sulfation is the number one cause of battery failure. The second leading cause of battery failure is overcharging. Overcharging batteries results in severe water loss and plate corrosion. With that said let’s look at how to properly store your RV batteries.
Before we talk about storing the batteries we need to talk about battery safety. Lead acid batteries contain sulfuric acid which is extremely corrosive and can cause severe burns or even blindness. And the hydrogen gas that batteries produce when they’re charging is very explosive. When you work around batteries you need to wear goggles and gloves, remove all jewelry and do not smoke or use any open flames. Caution: If you accidentally get battery acid on your skin, flush it with lots of water and if it gets in your eyes flush with low pressure water for 15 minutes and call a doctor.
When you put the RV in long term storage it’s a good idea to remove the batteries and put them in storage too. This is quite simple to do. The first thing we want to do is visually inspect the batteries for any obvious damage. Any fluid on or around the battery may be an indication that electrolyte is leaking from the battery. A damaged or leaking battery should be replaced immediately. Whenever you remove any battery always remember to remove the negative terminal or cable first, and then the positive cable.Battery Tip: When you remove a battery turn off the ignition switch, all electrical switches, and any battery disconnect switches before you disconnect the battery cables. Whenever you remove any battery cables label them first so you remember how they go back on the battery. When you reinstall the battery do it in the reverse order. Install the positive cable first and then the negative cable.
Clean the batteries with a 50/50 mixture of baking soda and water if necessary, i.e. use one pound of baking soda to one gallon of water. Now you can check the electrolyte level in each cell and add distilled water if necessary. The minimum level required is at the top of the plates. If it’s below the plates add enough distilled water to cover the plates before you charge the battery.
Test the battery state of charge with a voltmeter or hydrometer and charge any batteries that are at or below 80%. An 80% charge is approximately 12.5 volts for a 12 volt battery and 6.25 volts for a 6 volt battery. Lead sulfation starts when a battery state of charge drops below 80%. After charging the batteries check and fill each cell to 1/8 inch below the fill well with distilled water. Overfilling cells will cause battery acid to overflow.Caution: Batteries should only be charged in a well ventilated area and keep any sparks and open flames away from a battery being charged. Check the electrolyte levels before and after charging batteries.
A discharged or partially charged battery will freeze much faster than a charged battery. Store the batteries in a cool dry place but not where they could freeze. Batteries in storage will loose a percentage of current through internal leakage. It’s not uncommon for a battery to discharge up to 10% a month when it is being stored. Cold temperatures slow this natural discharge process down and warmer temperatures speed the process up. Test the stored battery state of charge every month and charge batteries that are at or below an 80% state of charge.
Completely charge the batteries before re-installing them next spring. For optimum performance you can equalize the batteries after they are fully charged. An equalizing charge is an increase in charging voltage similar to a bulk charge to convert any crystallized lead sulfate back into its original components.
If you decide to leave the batteries in the RV while it is in storage remember to check the state of charge monthly and charge any batteries at or below an 80% charge. Some RV converter multi-stage chargers and aftermarket chargers are designed to maintain a float charge on the battery without removing the batteries from the RV. Remember, for the converter charger to work the RV will need to be plugged in to electricity.
For more information on RV batteries check out our Deep Cycle Battery Care & Maintenance DVD available at www.rveducation101.com
Happy Camping,
Mark Polk
The Purpose of Wood Under RV Tires in Storage
Ideally you should attempt to get the weight off of tires when an RV will be in storage for a period of time. But, this is not always practical or possible. If the weight can't be removed, at a minimum you should try to move the RV every three months to prevent tire flat spots and ozone cracking at the tire sidewall flex point. Flat spots will usually disappear after the tires warm up and travel for a distance, unless the vehicle hasn't been moved for six months or more.
There are actually several reasons for blocking tires. The first step is to make sure the RV is as level as possible so more weight isn't on one tire than the others. The perfect scenario would be to store the RV and its tires in a cool dry, covered area, but as we all know this is not always possible either.
Storage surface areas can cause your tires to age prematurely. You don't want to leave the tires in contact to any heat producing material or petroleum based material like asphalt. You also don't want them exposed to constant cold or moisture, like sitting on the frozen ground. The wood acts as a barrier between the tires and the ground surface they are being stored on. The proper storage steps would be to clean the tires, cover them to protect them from harmful sunlight and UV rays and inflate them to the pressure indicated on the sidewall of the tires.
It is extremely important that the blocking you use is wider than the tires tread and longer than the tires overall footprint. If not the steel cables in the tires sidewall can be damaged which can also result in premature tire failure.
Also, you can use Lynx Levelers, just make sure you follow the directions above.
Happy Camping!
Mark
Copyright 2007 by Mark J. Polk, owner of RV Education 101
RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. http://www.rveducation101.com/
Sign up for your free "RV Education 101" Newsletter http://rveducation101.com/email/
There are actually several reasons for blocking tires. The first step is to make sure the RV is as level as possible so more weight isn't on one tire than the others. The perfect scenario would be to store the RV and its tires in a cool dry, covered area, but as we all know this is not always possible either.
Storage surface areas can cause your tires to age prematurely. You don't want to leave the tires in contact to any heat producing material or petroleum based material like asphalt. You also don't want them exposed to constant cold or moisture, like sitting on the frozen ground. The wood acts as a barrier between the tires and the ground surface they are being stored on. The proper storage steps would be to clean the tires, cover them to protect them from harmful sunlight and UV rays and inflate them to the pressure indicated on the sidewall of the tires.
It is extremely important that the blocking you use is wider than the tires tread and longer than the tires overall footprint. If not the steel cables in the tires sidewall can be damaged which can also result in premature tire failure.
Also, you can use Lynx Levelers, just make sure you follow the directions above.
Happy Camping!
Mark
Copyright 2007 by Mark J. Polk, owner of RV Education 101
RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. http://www.rveducation101.com/
Sign up for your free "RV Education 101" Newsletter http://rveducation101.com/email/
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