Q. I live in a large 5th wheel full time and I am plugged in at all times. I heard the battery charger kicking in from time to time and the humming of the converter. Do I have to have the converter on all the time? Is it on only to charge the batteries? The manuals are the pits and I am really trying to know all about converters. The more questions I ask from different sources the more answers I get. I read your web site you do explain well. Thank you.
Mark Says: The converter in your RV basically does two jobs.
1) When you are plugged into electricity it converts a portion of the 120 volts coming into the RV down to 12 volts so all of the 12 volt devices like overhead lights and fan motors will operate without draining the RV battery.
2) It has a battery charger built in the converter to keep the RV battery charged (topped off).
The noise you are hearing is most likely the fan on the converter. The converter gets warm when it is on so the manufacturer adds a fan to help keep it cool. Some are very noisy.
You do need the converter on when you are plugged in. If the converter wasn't on, or wasn't operating properly you would run the RV battery down because you are using the 12 volt appliances and devices.
Some older RV converters charge the batteries at a constant rate and will continue to charge the batteries when they are fully charged. This can result in the battery or batteries losing water, so battery maintenance and inspections are important when you have the RV plugged in for long periods of time. Newer converters have 3 stage chargers that know when the battery is fully charged and at that point in time only provide a float charge (less charge) to prevent overcharging conditions.
Read this article I wrote on converters that might help explain it in more detail. http://www.rvuniversity.com/article.php/20080107175732307
Towing Question
Q. Thank you for trying to help with my towing question. For over 6 months I have been trying to get a correct answer to this question, and maybe there is not a correct answer. I have two cars, a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan front wheel drive, auto transmission, and a 1998 Pontiac Grand Am (It can be towed 4-wheels down) . I bought a tow dolly so I can tow either the car or Van. Dodge says not to tow the van on a tow dolly. I called the factory, and their reasoning is because it is so high that the dolly makes the center of gravity higher, not a mechanical problem. The Pontiac is also a auto transmission, front wheel drive car. The steering wheel doesn't lock on either of these car when the key is removed or in place. U-haul in their flyer says the steering wheel must be tied off. Other RVers have said the same for both of these cars. Others say no, you do not have to tie off the steering wheel. Master tow (tow dolly manufacturer) says yes, you do have to tie the wheel off if the steering wheel does NOT lock. Have you any input on this subject.
Mark Says: I have experience with Roadmaster and Master Tow tow dollies . Master Tow is only about 20 miles from where we live and we have actually done some filming at their plant for the RVTV show.
Both of these manufacturers say the steering wheel must be locked or secured and this is why.
This is an excerpt from the Roadmaster Inc. owners manual:
The towed cars steering wheel must be locked when towing. Failure to lock the steering will allow the towed car to pivot on the bed causing it to hit the fender and wheel assembly of the dolly. Severe damage will result to both vehicles.
I would follow the guidance you received from Master Tow on using a ratchet strap to secure the front wheels in a straight forward position.
I hope this answers your question. I'm not sure about Dodge's reason for not towing the van on a tow dolly.
***********
Copyright 2008 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101
RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. http://www.rveducation101.com/
Mark Says: I have experience with Roadmaster and Master Tow tow dollies . Master Tow is only about 20 miles from where we live and we have actually done some filming at their plant for the RVTV show.
Both of these manufacturers say the steering wheel must be locked or secured and this is why.
This is an excerpt from the Roadmaster Inc. owners manual:
The towed cars steering wheel must be locked when towing. Failure to lock the steering will allow the towed car to pivot on the bed causing it to hit the fender and wheel assembly of the dolly. Severe damage will result to both vehicles.
I would follow the guidance you received from Master Tow on using a ratchet strap to secure the front wheels in a straight forward position.
I hope this answers your question. I'm not sure about Dodge's reason for not towing the van on a tow dolly.
***********
Copyright 2008 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101
RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. http://www.rveducation101.com/
Labels:
4-wheels down,
rv towing,
trailer towing
Just when I thought we thoroughly covered RV electrical systems ...
Just when I thought we thoroughly covered RV electrical systems I get another good question about something I failed to discuss in my previous articles. I received one of these good questions the other day and thought there would be many other RVers who would like to hear the answer.
Reader’s question: In one of your previous articles you list the RV converter as drawing 5 amps. Since, I believe, the converter is operating any time you plug into a 120 volt AC system (30 Amp), does this mean that in reality you only have 25 amps to work with
(30 minus 5 = 25, and not considering clock draws, etc.)? I am developing an electric amp chart to hang inside a cabinet and I need to resolve this question as this would make a significant difference.
First of all let’s talk briefly about what your RV converter does. When you plug your RV into an electrical source, or when you use the onboard generator, the converters job is to reduce 120 volts AC down to 12 volt DC to supply power to all of the 12 volt appliances and accessories in the RV. If you weren’t plugged into an electrical source your RV battery(s) would supply the power to all of the 12 volt appliances and accessories in the RV. The converter basically prevents your RV battery(s) from draining when you’re plugged in.
There are two types of amperage draw concerning your RV. The AC amps we are using and the DC amps we are using. I’ll try to explain. When you plug your RV into an electrical source and use 120 volt appliances like the roof air conditioner, the microwave and a TV you are drawing amps from the available supply at the campground, usually 30 or 50 amps depending on your RV electrical system and the electrical supply you are plugged into. When you’re plugged into an electrical source and you use DC appliances and accessories like fans, lights, pumps or the TV antenna booster you are drawing amps from the converter. Are you more confused now than when we started? Let’s try wording this a little different.
Read more:
Reader’s question: In one of your previous articles you list the RV converter as drawing 5 amps. Since, I believe, the converter is operating any time you plug into a 120 volt AC system (30 Amp), does this mean that in reality you only have 25 amps to work with
(30 minus 5 = 25, and not considering clock draws, etc.)? I am developing an electric amp chart to hang inside a cabinet and I need to resolve this question as this would make a significant difference.
First of all let’s talk briefly about what your RV converter does. When you plug your RV into an electrical source, or when you use the onboard generator, the converters job is to reduce 120 volts AC down to 12 volt DC to supply power to all of the 12 volt appliances and accessories in the RV. If you weren’t plugged into an electrical source your RV battery(s) would supply the power to all of the 12 volt appliances and accessories in the RV. The converter basically prevents your RV battery(s) from draining when you’re plugged in.
There are two types of amperage draw concerning your RV. The AC amps we are using and the DC amps we are using. I’ll try to explain. When you plug your RV into an electrical source and use 120 volt appliances like the roof air conditioner, the microwave and a TV you are drawing amps from the available supply at the campground, usually 30 or 50 amps depending on your RV electrical system and the electrical supply you are plugged into. When you’re plugged into an electrical source and you use DC appliances and accessories like fans, lights, pumps or the TV antenna booster you are drawing amps from the converter. Are you more confused now than when we started? Let’s try wording this a little different.
Read more:
RV Shows
Each year, around this time, the RV show season starts. RV shows, like boat shows, are intended to introduce the new model year RV’s and to help disseminate RV related information to the consumer. These shows are usually scheduled during the slower time of the year, the winter months, to help jump start the selling season. RV dealers from miles away will bring their wares to these shows. For the buyer, RV shows put everything you need to see and learn about RV’s under one roof, making it the ideal forum to conduct research and make informed RV buying decisions.
I mentioned that RV dealers will come from miles around. This includes many local dealers from the area in which you live. If at all possible you want to find a dealer that is within a reasonable distance from where you live. As bad as it sounds, if you buy from an out of state dealer or one far from home, the local RV dealer may not give you the best service after the sale. The most important concern here is that you deal with a reputable RV dealer.
A good place to start your search for a reputable RV dealer is at a local RV show. When you attend an RV show don’t be afraid to ask questions about the RV dealership and the products they offer. For starters you need to find a reputable RV dealer with a reputable, professional staff. A reputable dealer wants your business and they want you to return to them for future business. I have been in many RV dealerships that I wouldn’t hesitate to do business with and I have been in others that I couldn’t leave soon enough. Remember, you’re at the show to check out the dealer as well as the product and you should plan to visit the RV dealer’s physical location before you buy. If at all possible talk to some other people who have dealt with the dealership in the past. Don’t be afraid to ask them to give you a tour of the dealership. Look at the service department. Do they have certified technicians? Do they have the capability and facilities to do routine maintenance and warranty work on the units they sell? Look at the Parts and Accessory department. Do they offer a good selection of parts and accessories? Do they have a good selection of RVs to choose from? How long have they been selling certain manufacturer brands? How long have they been in business?
There are some great deals offered at some RV shows and with all of the excitement, and a good salesperson, it’s easy to make a hasty purchase. If they can offer a great deal at the show, chances are they can offer a great deal after the show, unless the offer included a manufacturer discount or rebate for show dates only. Let them know you might be interested in a particular unit or deal, but you want to visit the dealership before you buy.
Read more
I mentioned that RV dealers will come from miles around. This includes many local dealers from the area in which you live. If at all possible you want to find a dealer that is within a reasonable distance from where you live. As bad as it sounds, if you buy from an out of state dealer or one far from home, the local RV dealer may not give you the best service after the sale. The most important concern here is that you deal with a reputable RV dealer.
A good place to start your search for a reputable RV dealer is at a local RV show. When you attend an RV show don’t be afraid to ask questions about the RV dealership and the products they offer. For starters you need to find a reputable RV dealer with a reputable, professional staff. A reputable dealer wants your business and they want you to return to them for future business. I have been in many RV dealerships that I wouldn’t hesitate to do business with and I have been in others that I couldn’t leave soon enough. Remember, you’re at the show to check out the dealer as well as the product and you should plan to visit the RV dealer’s physical location before you buy. If at all possible talk to some other people who have dealt with the dealership in the past. Don’t be afraid to ask them to give you a tour of the dealership. Look at the service department. Do they have certified technicians? Do they have the capability and facilities to do routine maintenance and warranty work on the units they sell? Look at the Parts and Accessory department. Do they offer a good selection of parts and accessories? Do they have a good selection of RVs to choose from? How long have they been selling certain manufacturer brands? How long have they been in business?
There are some great deals offered at some RV shows and with all of the excitement, and a good salesperson, it’s easy to make a hasty purchase. If they can offer a great deal at the show, chances are they can offer a great deal after the show, unless the offer included a manufacturer discount or rebate for show dates only. Let them know you might be interested in a particular unit or deal, but you want to visit the dealership before you buy.
Read more
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