Exercising your RV Generator

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When I worked at a RV dealership, every spring our service department was booked with appointments for generators that either wouldn’t start, or if they did start they had that all too familiar surging sound. This was a result of letting the generator sit for periods of time without starting and exercising it. Lack of use is one of the biggest problems with generators. In gasoline generators the fuel breaks down and gums up causing hard starting and surging problems. This can happen in as short a period of time as two months.

Running and exercising a generator is just one aspect of owning and using a generator. Let’s start from the beginning. RV generators are what truly make your RV fully self-contained. What a feature, instant electricity at the push of a button. We take electricity for granted in our homes because we don’t have to do anything to get it, with the exception of paying our monthly electric bill. This is part of the problem with RV generators, we expect the electricity to be there when we need or want it just like in our house. The problem is this magical source of electricity requires a certain amount of care and maintenance from the owner.

Safety first! Always keep in mind when you use a generator there is carbon monoxide. You should always inspect the exhaust system on the generator set before using it. Do not operate a generator with a damaged exhaust system. If you’re using a portable generator set make sure the exhaust is directed away from the camping area. Test your carbon monoxide detector for proper operation prior to using the generator.

RV generators are extremely dependable and in many cases will out last the RV if they are properly maintained and cared for. They do not require your constant attention, just some basic maintenance. The first thing you need to understand about maintaining your generator is that they need to be exercised on a regular basis. I mentioned a moment ago that gasoline generators could have fuel related problems in as little as two months when sitting idle. This is one of the biggest problems, but it can easily be prevented if you get in a habit of exercising the generator on a monthly basis.

Some people think that this can be avoided by adding a fuel preservative to the fuel tank and then running the generator long enough to get the preservative through the generator set. You definitely should use a fuel preservative whenever the unit will be in storage, but there are many other reasons to start and exercise the generator on a regular basis. Moisture build up can cause damage to your generator. When you exercise your generator it heats up the generator windings and eliminates this moisture build up. This monthly exercise regime also lubricates all of the engine seals and components and helps to prevent carbon build up.

So, what exactly do I mean when I say exercise your generator? For a gasoline generator I mean that you start and run the generator with at least a 50 percent load for at least two hours every month. It is extremely important that you run it with this minimum rated load. Generators are designed to run with a load placed on them. It’s always better to exercise the generator for longer time periods than it is for short periods. Check your generator owner’s manual for load ratings specific to your unit.

Other maintenance intervals for generators are based on usage. Your generator set will have an hour meter so you can monitor the usage. Consult your owner’s manual for maintenance intervals. The bottom line is, do not hesitate to use your generator and when you do use it put a load on it. A little exercise and preventive maintenance will keep your generator in top operating condition and provide many years of faithful service.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
RV Education 101
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RV Electric 101 - Basic RV Electricity

One of the most common questions and concerns I receive is about the RV electrical system. Most people ask if I can explain the RV electrical system in simple to understand terms. The electrical system in your RV can seem complex and confusing until you have a basic understanding of how it works. Your RV actually has three separate electrical systems. It has a 12-volt DC automotive system, a 12-volt DC coach system, and a 120 volt AC coach system. We are primarily concerned with the 12-volt DC and 120 volt AC coach systems.

The majority of campgrounds you go to will provide you with an external 120 volt electric source to plug into. Your RV has a heavy-duty power cord that is normally about 25 feet long. Depending on the type of RV you have, or purchase, it will either be a 30 Amp or 50 Amp system. When you plug into the proper campground electrical source it will supply power throughout your RV. You must have a 120 Volt AC power source if you are going to use the microwave, roof air conditioner, the refrigerator in the electric mode and the 120 Volt electrical outlets. For the most part everything else in the camper works off of 12-volt DC power. When you are plugged in at the campground a portion of the 120 volt AC current is converted to 12-volt DC current for the items in the RV that work off of 12 volts. Some of these items are the overhead lights, the furnace fan, and the fan over the range, the vent fan in the bathroom, the water pump, LP gas leak detector, stereo, and the refrigerator when it’s in the LP gas mode. If you look at the RV’s power distribution panel you will see circuit breakers like you have in your house for the 120-volt AC side, and automotive style blade fuses for the 12-volt DC side.

If you are not plugged into an external power source you can still use the 12-volt DC system if you have a 12-volt deep cycle marine battery on your unit. As long as the battery or batteries are charged you can use everything in the RV except the microwave, roof air conditioner, the refrigerator in the electric mode and the electrical outlets. If you have a motorhome, or you’re going to purchase a motorhome, it will have a battery for the automotive system and an auxiliary battery for the coach system. The coach battery is charged whenever the motorhome is running; the generator is running, or when it’s plugged into an external electrical source.

Before we go any further I would like to offer a few basic battery maintenance tips to keep your RV batteries in top operating condition.

First of all never work around batteries with an open flame. Vapors from the batteries can ignite, causing serious damage. To prevent the possibility of arcing turn off any 12 Volt power sources and disconnect the negative battery cable before working on or around the batteries. If you have a maintenance free battery you will not be able to perform some of these checks. The color of the eye on the battery will indicate the condition of a maintenance free battery. Consult your owner’s manual for more information on maintenance free batteries.

Constant charging depletes electrolyte levels in batteries. Inspect electrolyte levels and add distilled water as required. Add water until it reaches the split-level marker in each cell. Do not overfill.
Inspect all battery cable and terminal connections. Keep all connections clean and tight. Do not over tighten. When battery terminals are clean and tight on the battery post spray the terminals with a battery terminal protector to prevent corrosion.
To clean the battery itself use a diluted baking soda and water solution. After cleaning the battery flush it thoroughly with water.

Check the state of charge and keep batteries fully charged. Specific gravity readings for a charged battery should be between 1.215 & 1.250. If you remove the batteries for storage charge them to a full charge and check them periodically during storage. Re-charge as necessary. Follow proper charging instructions for the type of battery. Deep cycle batteries require a lower amp charge over a longer period of time.

There are numerous electronic devices and equipment in your RV that can drain the coach battery when you’re not using the RV. Some examples are; the TV antenna booster, the LP gas leak detector, clocks in radios, or just leaving a 12-volt light on by accident. If your RV is not equipped with a battery disconnect switch you can purchase a battery disconnect, from an RV dealer, that can be installed directly on the battery post. When you aren’t using the RV or have no requirement for the coach battery you simply raise a lever and disconnect the battery. A battery disconnect can be installed on the chassis battery too.

Lastly, if you are not comfortable performing the maintenance on your RV batteries have it done by a qualified service center.

Motorhomes also provide an additional source of 120 volt AC power with an onboard power generator. This unique feature offers you the convenience of 120-volt AC power whenever you need it, making the unit fully self-contained. The fuel supply for the generator comes directly from the motor home fuel tank. The system is designed so that when the fuel tank gets to 1/4 tank full the generator will stop running so it doesn’t use all of the fuel in the motor home. Some motor homes have an automatic switch over from an external power supply to the generator. Other motor homes require you to plug the motor home power cord into a generator receptacle on the motor home to use the generator.

I would also like to give you a few tips about RV electricity. To start with a 30 Amp system is the most common on RV’s. The plug on your RV is a large three-prong, heavy duty 30 Amp, 120-volt plug.

Most campgrounds you go to will provide you with a 30 Amp outlet that your RV power cord will plug directly into. If you go to a campground that has a regular house type outlet there are adapters that you can use to go from your RV plug to the house type outlet. When you do this you are plugging into a 15 Amp or 20 Amp power source. This means you will be limited as to what appliances you can run in your RV. It is even possible to damage some appliances if they are not getting the required amperage to operate properly. Let’s say for example you plug into a 15 Amp outlet and you are using a small appliance that is drawing 5 Amps, that leaves you with 10 Amps. Now you turn the roof air conditioner on and when the air conditioner compressor engages it needs about 13 Amps, but it’s not available, and it damages the air conditioner compressor.

Even with a 30 Amp service you need to be selective about what you are using. If you try to use too much the RV will let you know by tripping a breaker in the distribution box and hopefully no harm will be done. There is a short formula that may help you with this. 30 Amps X 120 Volts = 3600 watts. This is the total amount of power you can use before you overload the system. Think of it like this, with 3600 watts you could use 36 one hundred watt light bulbs. When you turn on the 37th light you will probably trip a breaker.

It is also a good idea to take a voltmeter along with you that you can plug right into one of the outlets. Campground electricity varies depending on the demand placed on it. If everybody is running his or her air conditioner the voltage may drop below an acceptable level, and it would be wise to wait until it is restored back to normal. You can glance at the voltmeter every time you walk by it and save yourself untimely and costly repairs to your RV appliances. Voltage below 105 volts or above 135 volts can damage electronic equipment and appliances.

Most appliances will tell you what the required wattage or amperage is to run the appliance. Here is the amperage draw for some common RV appliances and electronics.

•Coffee maker - 8.3 amps

•Converter - 8 amps

•Hair dryer - 9 to 12 amps

•Microwave - 13 amps

•Refrigerator - 2.8 amps

•Roof a/c 13.5 amps

•TV - 1.5 amps

•Toaster - 8 to 10 amps

•VCR - 2 amps

•Electric skillet- 6 to 12 amps

Hopefully this will provide you with a better basic understanding of how your RV electrical system works.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
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More on Basic RV Electricity

I received quite a few questions and comments on last month’s article, “Basic RV Electricity.” The questions and comments were very good and they addressed some RV electrical concerns I didn’t cover in the article. I thought that everyone could benefit from this information and decided to include it this month.

Question: “What is a deep cycle battery?”

Answer: RVs come equipped with deep cycle batteries for the coach. Most RVs come with a single Group 24 deep cycle battery. Deep cycle batteries are rated in amp/hours. How many amps the battery can deliver for how many hours before the battery is discharged. Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged over and over again and still take a charge. If you enjoy dry camping (without hook-ups) you depend on your deep cycle battery(s) to take care of your 12-volt needs. You can purchase a deep cycle battery with a higher amp/hour capacity that will last longer. The higher the amp/hour capacity is the larger the battery is. If you have room for a larger battery and enjoy dry camping you may want to consider a Group 27 or Group 31 deep cycle battery.

Comment: “You did not cover inverters. I installed one in my motorhome because there are times when you want a little power for the TV or VCR and don’t want to crank the generator.”

Reply: You are absolutely right. Inverters are nice to have at times when you are dry camping and/or when you don’t have access to 120-volts AC. Batteries produce power in Direct Current (DC) that run at low voltages. Power companies and AC generators produce sine wave Alternating Current (AC), which is used to operate 120-volt appliances and electronic equipment. An inverter takes 12-volt DC power from your RV batteries and electronically changes it to 120-volt AC. Some RVers use an inverter just to watch TV or for their personal computer. Other RVers use an inverter to operate microwaves, coffee pots or other larger appliances. When you purchase an inverter the inverter’s output capacity must be capable of operating the loads that will be placed on it.

Inverters have two different capacity ratings. Continuous output rating and surge capacity rating. Continuous output is the maximum wattage the inverter can output for a long time period. Surge capacity is the maximum wattage the inverter can output during initial start up. All appliances require more power when they start, compared to what they use when they are running. They can use as much as two or three times the amount to start then what they use to run, so the starting power required for any appliance that you plan to use with the inverter must be within the surge capacity rating. There are modified sine wave inverters and true sine wave inverters. A true sine wave inverter is more expensive, but they are capable of producing power as good as the power company and all appliances and electronic equipment will run as they are intended to. Keep in mind you are drawing the power from your RV batteries and any power used has to be put back in through some type of effective charging system.

Comment: This is a second comment from the same reader. “You need to tell your reader’s what to do when you only have 15 amps to plug in to, (usually at someone’s home and using the plug on their front porch) and you need the air conditioner.”

Reply: I personally don’t recommend doing this, but I agree that it is possible, like you say to use the A/C if you are plugged in to a 15-amp outlet. If you do, you must exercise caution. When the A/C compressor engages it requires more amps (about 13) than it does once it is running. Because of this you need to turn all appliances off before starting the A/C, to include switching the refrigerator from A/C to LP gas. Once it is running it may be possible to use a small appliance or electronic equipment that operates on low amperage, like a TV, but you need to monitor the voltage to prevent damaging any appliances or electronic equipment.

Comment: This is the third comment from the same reader. “You should also tell your reader’s that if they are using a long extension cord it must be #12 wire or lower, (heavier gauge) to keep the amount of voltage drop from causing problems.”

Reply: You’re right again. If it is possible you should try to avoid using an extension cord when making electrical connections at the campground. The gauges of the wire used in standard household extension cords are not suitable for RV electrical hook-ups. Eventually you will be put in a situation where you will need to use an extension cord. It is a good idea to purchase an RV extension cord that is compatible to the electrical system of your RV, and have it on hand. If you do purchase an extension cord somewhere else I recommend 10-guage wire and use as short of a cord as possible.

Question: “Will it hurt to leave the RV plugged in and the refrigerator on all of the time?”

Answer: I leave my refrigerator on almost all of the time. The RV should be on level ground so the refrigerator operates properly and you will need to monitor it for when it needs to be defrosted. The only other concern with leaving the RV plugged in, not related to the refrigerator, is the coach battery. Whenever the RV is plugged in the coach battery is being charged. It's really just a trickle charge, but over time it can deplete the electrolyte levels in the battery cells. You need to check, or have somebody check the battery at least monthly when the RV is plugged in during storage.

Question: “Is there any danger of damaging your system if you plug a 30-amp system into a 50-amp service using the proper adapter?”

Answer: This is a controversial subject. Some people will argue that if they make an electrical adapter for it than it is safe. Others will argue that it is not safe to use a 50-amp service for a system designed for 30-amps or a 20-amp service for a 30-amp system. Electrical adapters are a necessity for RVers. Eventually you will be in a situation where you have to use some type of electrical adapter to make a connection at a campground. It may be an outdated campground or isolated area that only provides 15 or 20-amp electrical service, or the only site available is a 50-amp service for your 30-amp system. There are adapters that will go from your RV type plug and size down to household type outlets and adapters that go from household type outlets to all types of campground RV connections. It’s nice to have these adapters on hand when you need them, but you must exercise caution and use common sense when you use them. If you have a 30-amp system and you have to use a 50-amp service use your RV electrical system exactly the same way you do when you’re plugged into a 30-amp service. In other words don’t try to run anymore than you normally would. On the other hand if your RV is a 30-amp or 50-amp system and you use an adapter to plug the RV into a 15 or 20-amp outlet you severely limit what you can operate in the RV. In this situation you should only use what appliances or electronic equipment are absolutely necessary. If you place too much of a demand on electrical adapters, or use them for extended periods of time they can overheat and melt resulting in damage to the RV power cord or the electrical system.

Question: “Sometimes the coach battery in our motorhome won’t start the generator and other times it will. My question is why isn’t the RV battery charger keeping my battery charged when I leave it plugged in all the time?”

Answer: The battery charger in the RV converter provides a trickle charge and is only designed to keep the coach battery(s) topped off. It is not designed or capable of recharging a battery that is completely discharged or damaged. The automotive alternator also charges the coach battery when you are driving the RV. I would guess that the alternator is probably charging the battery enough to start the generator sometimes after driving for a while, but the RV battery charger can’t charge it enough to start the generator when it’s plugged in. The constant charging from leaving it plugged in all the time can deplete the electrolyte level in the battery(s) cells. Depending on how often the battery(s) is being charged will determine how often it needs to be checked. You should check the battery(s) at least monthly and if you use the RV on a regular basis and / or you leave it plugged in when you’re not using it you may need to check the battery(s) more often.

I hope these reader’s questions and comments are helpful to you and quite possibly might answer some questions that you had about basic RV electricity.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
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Cold Weather RVing

There are lots of things to do and see in the wintertime; beautiful winter scenery, snow skiing, hunting, riding snowmobiles and much more. It’s no wonder so many people enjoy using their RV’s year round. When winter approaches each year I get numerous e-mails requesting information about using RV’s in cold temperatures. One reason I haven’t written on this subject in the past is because it would require more than just a short article to thoroughly cover this topic. Another reason for not writing about this in the past is that there are no guarantees that your RV can or will be 100% protected from the harsh winter elements by following written advice on the subject.

What I can do is offer you some suggestions and ideas that will help to protect your RV if you plan to use it during the cold winter months. I just can’t guarantee that it will be 100% protected. These suggestions and ideas are for short term winter camping in your RV. If you plan to take extended RV trips in cold weather there are many other precautions and measures that need to be considered, like using insulated skirting around the bottom of the RV for example.

Note: What we will be concentrating on in this article is how to protect your RV during cold weather camping. It is extremely important that you also understand how to protect yourself and other campers in cold temperatures.

One of the first considerations for cold weather RVing is if you will be traveling in temperatures below freezing. If this is the case, and there is water in the RV water system, your plumbing lines or water heater tank could freeze, resulting in costly repair bills, not to mention ruining your winter wonderland RV trip. To avoid this from happening I travel with the water system winterized. It is actually much easier to winterize an RV than most people think it is, and it’s not very expensive either. I have winterized and de-winterized our RV as many as four times in one winter.

The good news is it is still possible to use the bathroom facilities when you are traveling with the RV winterized. We take one gallon jugs filled with water to use in the toilet, and if your holding tanks are not heated you can put some RV antifreeze in the holding tanks to prevent the contents from freezing. Add the RV antifreeze (1-2 gallons) through the toilet for the black water holding tank and down the shower or tub drain for the gray water tank. The antifreeze will also protect the shower or tub P-trap which is usually located below floor level. The amount of antifreeze required for the holding tanks will be based on the size of the tanks, and it will be necessary to add more RV antifreeze as waste water is added to the tanks to prevent the antifreeze from being diluted.

Don’t allow the holding tanks to fill completely, before emptying them, during cold weather camping. This will reduce the chance of freezing, resulting in damage to the holding tanks. Take bottled water along for drinking and other needs like cooking, washing up and brushing your teeth when the RV is winterized. We have a five gallon jug that we always take on trips, filled with tap water from our house, for our pet’s drinking water and our other needs. This comes in handy when the RV is winterized.

When we arrive at our destination I try to select a site that will be exposed to the sun throughout the day, but also where there is some type of wind break available. Position the RV on the site so the front or rear will be facing the brunt of any wind, not the side of the RV. If there is an electrical hook-up I de-winterize the water system so we can use everything. All of the water lines in our motorhome are in a heated space, so we don’t need to be too concerned about the water system freezing as long as the RV has heat. We leave the water heater turned on whenever the water heater tank is full so there is no chance of it freezing. Some water heaters operate off of LP gas and electricity. Keep in mind if it’s in the electric mode it will use 9 to 13 amps.

It’s important that you know where all of the plumbing on your RV is located. Some RVs have heat ducts going to the basement storage areas where the water system is exposed to outside temperatures, but many RVs do not. If portions of the RV water system are below floor level, in areas that are not heated, it is possible for it to freeze and damage the water lines. If you are hooked up to an external water supply one option is to leave a faucet in the RV dripping, to keep the water moving, and decrease the possibility of water lines freezing. Another option is to use heat tape to protect the exposed water lines. Heat tape can be purchased at most hardware or building supply stores. Make sure it is suitable for the types of water lines in your RV, and if you plan to use it on a water hose.

If it is extremely cold outside and the possibility exists that the outside water supply could freeze, or if the campground water supply is shut off for the winter, I fill our fresh water holding tank and use it for all of our water requirements. Again, keep in mind where your fresh water tank is located; ours is in a heated area. If the campgrounds shower facilities are still open it’s a good idea to use them to avoid the gray water holding tank from filling so quickly. In this situation it might be in your best interest to keep the RV winterized and just use the campgrounds facilities.

The best source for heat is to use the RVs forced air furnace. There are a couple of things you need to be aware of when you use the RV furnace. First of all it will consume more LP gas than any of the other LP gas fired appliances. The LP tank or cylinders should be full before leaving on your trip, and you will need to monitor the LP gas supply carefully during your stay. Second, if you are not plugged into an electrical supply the furnace fan can quickly drain the auxiliary battery(s). Batteries that are not fully charged in cold temperatures can freeze resulting in not being able to use the RV furnace. I recommend that you plan your stay where you have access to an electrical supply when camping in cold weather. When we are plugged into electricity we set the forced air furnace on a low setting, around 60 degrees, and supplement the heat with thermostatically controlled ceramic heaters. These heaters work extremely well and you don’t need to be concerned about a fire or carbon monoxide.

Caution: Carbon monoxide is deadly. You cannot see it, taste it or smell it. Never use your range burners or oven as a source of heat. If your RV is not equipped with a carbon monoxide detector you should purchase a battery operated model designed for use in RV’s. Always test the carbon monoxide detector for proper operation before each trip.

You also need to be aware of the symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning:

* Dizziness
* Vomiting
* Nausea
* Muscular twitching
* Intense headache
* Throbbing in the temples
* Weakness and sleepiness
* Inability to think coherently

If you or anybody else experiences any of these symptoms get to fresh air immediately and if the symptoms persist seek medical attention. Information on carbon monoxide poisoning.

If you will be camping where you don’t have access to an electrical hook-up one option is to use a generator. A generator can keep the RV batteries topped off and allow you to use the RV furnace. You will need to have a sufficient supply of fuel on hand for the generator. If it’s a portable generator make sure the exhaust is directed away from the area where you are camping. Regardless of the type of generator always make sure the exhaust system is in proper operating condition and the carbon monoxide detector is working properly.

Here are a few more cold weather RV tips in no particular order:

* Do not store any water hoses with water in them. If you need to use it, it will probably be frozen. You can take it inside to thaw out if need be, or use a hair dryer.

* Covering the windows with curtains, drapes or almost anything will help to hold some of the heat in. It helps to cover overhead vent openings too.

* It may be necessary to take military type showers to keep from filling the gray water tank so quickly. Heat up some water, take the water and a tall glass and enjoy your shower.

* Leave cabinets or drawers open where water lines are located to allow heat to circulate around plumbing.

* Try to avoid opening the entry door as much as possible.

* Oh and don’t forget the electric blanket. It can be a lifesaver at night.

* If you haven’t purchased your RV yet and you know you will be using an RV in cold weather see if the manufacturer offers an arctic package option when you buy it. Some packages include higher R-factor insulation values, enclosed underbelly, heated holding tanks, dual pane windows and more.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
RV Education 101
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RV Orientation
Go for the RV Gold
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Neglected RV Batteries

The RV coach battery(s) are one of the most important and neglected components in the RV. The converter in an RV also has a battery charger. Whenever you are plugged in to electricity, or the generator is running, the coach battery(s) is being charged. It is also being charged by the automotive alternator when you are driving the RV or in the case of a towable RV if you had a charge line wired into the light plug. This constant charging depletes the electrolyte level in the battery(s) cells. If the battery is not maintained properly it will fail much sooner than it should. Depending on how often the battery(s) is being charged will determine how often it needs to be checked.

You should check the battery(s) at least monthly and if you use the RV on a regular basis and / or you leave it plugged in when you’re not using it you may need to check the battery(s) more often. If you are not familiar with batteries and battery maintenance have them checked by an authorized service center. Batteries can be extremely dangerous. They emit gases that are explosive and they contain a very corrosive acid. If you do perform your own maintenance certain precautions must be taken.

Do not use an open flame or smoke around batteries. Avoid any electrical arcing or sparks around the battery(s). Wear protective clothing and safety glasses and avoid getting any battery acid on your skin or clothes. If the electrolyte levels are low in the cells use only distilled water to fill them to the proper level. If you do come in contact with battery acid flush the exposed area immediately with a lot of cold water.

Happy Camping

Mark

Check out my Deep Cycle Battery Care and Maintenance for RV's and Boats DVD

RV coach battery(s)

The RV coach battery(s) are one of the most important and neglected components in the RV. The converter in an RV also has a battery charger. Whenever you are plugged in to electricity, or the generator is running, the coach battery(s) is being charged. It is also being charged by the automotive alternator when you are driving the RV or in the case of a towable RV if you had a charge line wired into the light plug. This constant charging depletes the electrolyte level in the battery(s) cells. If the battery is not maintained properly it will fail much sooner than it should. Depending on how often the battery(s) is being charged will determine how often it needs to be checked. You should check the battery(s) at least monthly and if you use the RV on a regular basis and / or you leave it plugged in when you’re not using it you may need to check the battery(s) more often. If you are not familiar with batteries and battery maintenance have them checked by an authorized service center. Batteries can be extremely dangerous. They emit gases that are explosive and they contain a very corrosive acid. If you do perform your own maintenance certain precautions must be taken. Do not use an open flame or smoke around batteries. Avoid any electrical arcing or sparks around the battery(s). Wear protective clothing and safety glasses and avoid getting any battery acid on your skin or clothes. If the electrolyte levels are low in the cells use only distilled water to fill them to the proper level. If you do come in contact with battery acid flush the exposed area immediately with a lot of cold water.

Happy Camping,

Mark J. Polk
RV Education 101
RV University.com

Copyright 2008 by Mark J. Polk, owner of RV Education 101

RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books.

More Interesting RV Poll Results

Several months ago I put an article together showing the results of our weekly e-newsletter RV polls. I find it interesting to review these poll results occasionally, and think many other RVers find the poll results of a targeted RV audience interesting too. Of course the outcome of any poll depends on several factors like what type of poll it is, how the questions are presented, who is asking the questions and of course who does and does not participate in the poll.


Our weekly RV poll is not a scientific poll, a political poll or a marketing poll. It is basically used to give me some idea of what our newsletter readers are interested in, how they use their RVs and just for the fun of it.

So, here is a look back at some past polls and how the participants responded.

■ 30% of the participants have experienced problems with rodent control in their RV’s and 70% have not.

■48% have spent a night in a Wal-Mart parking lot and 52% have not. Of those, 58% asked permission to stay in the Wal-Mart parking lot and 42% did not.

■68% connect to the internet every day when traveling by RV and 32% do not. 82% experience trouble getting an internet connection on the road and 16% do not. 58% of the respondents depend on free Wi-Fi to connect, 27% used a wireless card to connect and 15% relied on other methods like paid Wi-Fi, cell phones and satellite service.

■When asked who drove the most 92% responded male, 5% female, 1% female traveling alone and 2% male traveling alone.

■74% said their RV came with a spare tire and 26 % did not get a spare when they purchased their RV.

■84% make campground reservations in advance and 16% do not.

■9% of respondents see closing state parks as a way to decrease state budgets and 91% do not.

■ 55% are currently financing their RV and 45% are not. 51% of those financed think they owe more than the RV is worth and 49% do not think they owe more than the RV is worth.

■85% of participants have an Emergency Roadside Service (ERS) plan and 15% do not.

■18% travel 200 miles or less per day during RV trips, 47% average 300 miles per day, 26% average 400 miles per day and 9% travel 500 or more miles per day.

■54% own motorized RV’s and 46% own towable RV’s.

■94% use rest stops along the way when traveling by RV and 6% do not.

■At one time or another 35% of respondents have had a damaged RV holding tank waste valve and 65% never have. Of those with damaged waste valves 58% repaired it themselves and 42% did not attempt repairs.

■36% use some type of digital line monitor to monitor campground electricity and 65% do not. 40% always test the campground wiring prior to plugging the RV in and 60% do not.

■82% check the tire pressure before each trip and 18% don’t.

■58% use checklists to perform maintenance and routine tasks on their RV and 42% do not.

■12% of the respondents have work camped before and 88% have not.

■90% said they use environmentally friendly holding tank chemicals and 10% don’t.

■63% use their RV in the winter and 37% don’t.

■70% have stayed in a friends or relatives driveway before and 30% have not.

■19% frequently stay at state or federal campgrounds, 34% stay at private campgrounds, 5% stay at public campgrounds and 42% stay at a combination of all three.

■67% use a pre-departure checklist when they RV and 33% don’t.

■98% have one or more slide outs on their RV and 2% don’t have any slide outs.

Well that brings us up to date on the poll results. When we gather more results I will keep you posted.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
RV Education 101
RV University
RV Orientation
Go for the RV Gold
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RV Consumer

Keeping Cool in your RV

Summer is fast approaching and for RVers that not only means prime travel season is upon us, but so is the heat. If you ever walked inside an RV that is sitting in the direct sunlight on a hot summer day you know what I’m talking about. Fortunately there are some simple things we can do to make our summer RV camping trips more pleasurable.

Strategically park your RV to take advantage of any shade that is available, especially on the side where the refrigerator vent is located. Don’t be afraid to ask for a shady site when you check in at the campground. This will not only help cool the RV down, but your refrigerator and roof A/C will work much more efficiently.

You can also improve your air conditioners’ efficiency by keeping the A/C filters clean. In most cases you can wash the filters in warm soapy water, rinse thoroughly and allow them to dry before reinstalling. Another option is to clean the filters with a small hand held vacuum cleaner. I recommend you keep a new set on hand in the event the old filters have seen better days.

Use your main awning and any window awnings to assist in cooling the RV down. In addition to the awnings use your window blinds or drapes to help keep the sun out and the cooler air in.

Campground voltage can fluctuate, especially during the summer months when campers are running their A/C and placing a higher demand on campground electricity. You should monitor the voltage coming in to your RV with some type of digital voltmeter. If voltage drops below 105-volts or goes above 130-volts turn your appliances and electronic equipment off until proper voltage is restored.

Install a thermostatically controlled refrigerator vent fan at the back of the refrigerator, or at the top of the roof vent, to assist with drafting the hot air away from the refrigerator. If you are mechanically inclined, these fans are fairly easy to install, or you can have your RV dealer install one for you. Either way it’s worth it. The fan removes the heat built up behind the refrigerator improving the refrigerators performance by up to 40%.

Another ingredient to keeping your RV cool is proper ventilation. Proper ventilation helps prevent excess heat from building up in your RV. You can install some type of vent covers over the roof vents to allow for ventilation. MaxxAir Vents are inexpensive, easy to install and they let the fresh air in, even when it’s raining, while the stale, musty air, smoke, cooking odors and heat escapes. Use a vent cover on each end of your RV to help promote cross ventilation.

To help keep the inside of the RV cool try to avoid opening the door as much as possible and cook outside rather than inside whenever possible.

Take a couple of small fans with you to help circulate the air. If for some reason you can’t run the A/C you’ll be glad you have them.

If all else fails head to the pool at the campground and cool off.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
RV Education 101
RV University
RV Orientation
Go for the RV Gold
Follow us on FACEBOOK
RV Consumer

Neglected RV Batteries

Neglected RV Batteries
The RV coach battery(s) are one of the most important and neglected components in the RV. The converter in an RV also has a battery charger. Whenever you are plugged in to electricity, or the generator is running, the coach battery(s) is being charged. It is also being charged by the automotive alternator when you are driving the RV or in the case of a towable RV if you had a charge line wired into the light plug. This constant charging can deplete the electrolyte level in the battery(s) cells. If the battery is not maintained properly it will fail much sooner than it should. Depending on how often the battery(s) is being charged will determine how often the electrolyte level needs to be checked.

Checking the electrolyte level on a regular basis can save your flooded lead acid batteries. Check the water level monthly and if you leave your RV plugged in with the batteries being charged by the converter battery charger check it bi-monthly. If your converter doesn’t have a three stage charger the battery is getting a constant charge of 13.5 volts. When the batteries are topped off this voltage is too high for a float charge and it can boil off the electrolyte over time. If you are not familiar with batteries and battery maintenance have them checked by an authorized service center.

Batteries can be extremely dangerous. They emit gases that are explosive and they contain a very corrosive acid. If you do perform your own maintenance certain precautions must be taken. Do not use an open flame or smoke around batteries. Avoid any electrical arcing or sparks around the battery(s). Wear protective clothing and safety glasses and avoid getting any battery acid on your skin or clothes. If you do come in contact with battery acid flush the exposed area immediately with a lot of cold water.

When you add water only use mineral free water. Distilled water is best, and only fill the cell to 1/8 inch below the fill well. Overfilling cells will cause battery acid to overflow. When this happens the battery will lose some of its capacity and corrosion will build up on and around the battery. Water should only be added after fully charging the battery unless the water level is already below the plates.
Follow these steps for watering the battery. Remove the vent caps and look inside the fill wells. Check the electrolyte levels. The minimum level required for charging the battery is at the top of the plates. If it’s below the plates add enough distilled water to cover the plates before you charge the battery. Fully charge the battery before adding more water. When the battery is charged remove the vent caps and check the electrolyte levels. Add distilled water until electrolyte level is 1/8 inch below the fill well. Replace and tighten all vent caps.

Happy Camping,
Mark J Polk
RV Education 101

RV Converter Question

Q. I live in a large 5th wheel full time and I am plugged in at all times. I heard the battery charger kicking in from time to time and the humming of the converter. Do I have to have the converter on all the time? Is it on only to charge the batteries? The manuals are the pits and I am really trying to know all about converters. The more questions I ask from different sources the more answers I get. I read your web site you do explain well. Thank you.

Mark Says: The converter in your RV basically does two jobs.
1) When you are plugged into electricity it converts a portion of the 120 volts coming into the RV down to 12 volts so all of the 12 volt devices like overhead lights and fan motors will operate without draining the RV battery.
2) It has a battery charger built in the converter to keep the RV battery charged (topped off).

The noise you are hearing is most likely the fan on the converter. The converter gets warm when it is on so the manufacturer adds a fan to help keep it cool. Some are very noisy.
You do need the converter on when you are plugged in. If the converter wasn't on, or wasn't operating properly you would run the RV battery down because you are using the 12 volt appliances and devices.

Some older RV converters charge the batteries at a constant rate and will continue to charge the batteries when they are fully charged. This can result in the battery or batteries losing water, so battery maintenance and inspections are important when you have the RV plugged in for long periods of time. Newer converters have 3 stage chargers that know when the battery is fully charged and at that point in time only provide a float charge (less charge) to prevent overcharging conditions.

Read this article I wrote on converters that might help explain it in more detail. http://www.rvuniversity.com/article.php/20080107175732307

Keeping Cool in your RV

Summer is fast approaching and for RVers that not only means prime travel season is upon us, but so is the heat. If you ever walked inside an RV sitting in the direct sunlight, on a hot summer day, you know what I mean. Fortunately there are some simple things we can do to make our summer RV camping trips more pleasurable.

• Strategically parking your RV to take advantage of any shade that is available, especially on the side where the refrigerator vent is located. Don’t be afraid to ask for a shady site when you check in at the campground. This will not only help cool the RV down, but your refrigerator and roof A/C will work much more efficiently.


• You can improve your air conditioners efficiency by keeping the A/C filters clean. In most cases you can wash the filters in warm soapy water, rinse thoroughly and allow them to dry before reinstalling. Another option is to clean the filters with a small hand held vacuum cleaner. I recommend you keep a new set of filters on hand in the event the old filters have seen better days.


• Use your patio awning and any window awnings to assist in cooling the RV down. In addition to the awnings use your window blinds or drapes to help keep the sun out and the cooler air in.


• Campground voltage can fluctuate, especially during the summer months when campers are placing a higher demand on campground electricity. You should monitor the voltage coming in to your RV with a digital voltmeter. If voltage drops below 105-volts or goes above 130-volts turn your appliances and electronic equipment off until proper voltage is restored.

Happy Camping,

Mark J. Polk
RV Education 101
RV University.com

Copyright 2008 by Mark J. Polk, owner of RV Education 101

RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books.

Need to Know Differences Between 30 and 50 Amps

Need to Know Differences Between 30 and 50 Amps:

From KOA: Learn everything you need to know about the difference in RV amperage from our resident RV expert in this video.What’s the difference between a 30 amp and a 50 amp RV electrical system? In this handy RV how-to video, Mark Polk explains why you can use more electricity in an RV with a 50 amp service then you can in an RV with a 30 amp service.

http://blog.koa.com/30-vs-50-amp-rv-service/

RV 101® - RV Winterizing 101 (Part 1)

It’s always sad to come to the realization that another camping season is winding down. Part of this realization is preparing the RV for winter storage, so it will be ready to go camping again next spring. My guess is that most RV owners, especially those in cold climate regions, refer to this winter storage preparation as winterizing your RV. When you hear the term “winterizing” the first thought that comes to mind is to protect the RV water system from potential damage caused by exposure to freezing temperatures. Frozen and damaged water lines are in fact the most common problem related to not winterizing your RV, or not properly winterizing your RV; but there is more to winterizing your RV than just protecting the water system from freezing.


The English dictionary definition for “winterize” is to prepare something, especially a house or an automobile, to withstand cold winter conditions. What I find interesting about this definition is that your RV is essentially a house and automobile combined. With that said, winterizing your RV would entail more than just preparing the water system for cold winter conditions. We would need to be concerned with preparing the RV’s interior, exterior, chassis, and plumbing from the harsh winter months.

Today I will discuss some tips for preparing the RV interior, exterior and the chassis for cold winter storage, and next week I will discuss preparing the plumbing system for the cold winter storage.

RV Interior

When RVs are stored for the winter it’s not uncommon for mice and squirrels to make their winter home in the RV. These animals are notorious for chewing through vehicle wiring, plastic and rubber components, resulting in extensive damage to the RV. If it’s a motorized RV start the engine periodically to keep any chewing squirrels out of the engine compartment area.

Possibly, the most important step is to try and prevent mice and other rodents from being able to access your RV. This can be difficult because they can enter the RV through some very small openings. Start by inspecting the underside of your RV for any gaps or holes. Fill these gaps using silicone or expanding foam. A word of caution, if you never used expanding foam before, you should experiment with it on something other than your RV first. When it dries it can expand a great deal more than you expect. Next, open drawers and cabinet doors inside your RV. Look in all of the corners and crevices, especially where plumbing and wiring enter the RV. If you can see any daylight mice can get in. Fill these areas with silicone or foam.

Remove all food from the RV when it’s being stored and thoroughly clean the RV to remove any remnants of food that might attract mice and other rodents. Some people say mothballs help deter mice from making their home in your RV, and others say an alternative to mothballs is dryer sheets, like Bounce. I have talked to people who swear they work and the smell is much more pleasant. If you are close to where your RV is being stored you may want to use conventional mouse traps and check for mice every week or so.

Next you should defrost the freezer compartment and clean the refrigerator. Leave the doors open and place baking soda in the compartments to absorb any odors. If the RV is in long-term storage, and won’t be plugged in to electricity, it’s a good idea to turn off the main breaker in the distribution panel. Turn the LP gas supply valve off at the cylinder(s) or tank. Close the window blinds to avoid sun exposure to the carpet, drapes and upholstery. Leave doors drawers and cabinets open. Clean the A/C filter(s). If you have vent covers installed on the overhead vents, that prevent rain from getting inside, leave them cracked open to allow for some ventilation. Remove any dry cell batteries from devices like smoke alarms, clocks etc.

RV Exterior

When you store your RV outside for extended periods the exterior begins to show signs of wear, caused by the constant exposure to the elements. Ozone in the air and ultraviolet, (UV) rays from the sun start to take their toll. Ozone causes the paint to fade and makes products like rubber and vinyl dry out, crack, and start to deteriorate. The UV rays from the sun make this aging process happen quicker. Before you store your RV you need to give the exterior a thorough cleaning. Whenever I’m washing or cleaning anything, whether it’s an automobile or the RV, I start from the top and work my way down. It’s a good idea to clean the RV roof before putting the RV in storage too. The type of roof your RV has will determine the cleaner you will need to use. Wash the exterior and if you’re really motivated wax it, using a quality wax formulated for the type of exterior surface your RV has. A good coat of wax protects your RV finish the same as it does an automobile. When you are cleaning the RV exterior inspect all roof seams, body seams and window sealant for any cracks and openings that would allow water to get in. Consult your RV dealer for sealants compatible with these materials and re-seal as required.

Don’t forget to clean the awning fabric, and let it dry completely before storing it. If you have a pop-up or hybrid trailer make sure all of the tenting material is clean and dry before storage.

Ideally you should try to store your RV under a covered area and on a solid surface like concrete. If this isn’t possible avoid parking under trees and in tall grass, fields or wooded areas. If the RV won’t be parked under some type of covered shelter you may want to invest in a cover. Covering your RV can be a logical and cost effective way to help protect your investment. If you decide to use a cover make sure it is made of a breathable material.

Service all locks with a spray lubricant and lubricate all hinges. Insects are attracted to the odorant added to LP gas. You may want to cover LP gas appliance vents to prevent insects from making their winter home inside these vents. If you do cover the vents, remember to remove the cover next spring.

RV Chassis

Just like the exterior of the RV, the tires on your RV can be damaged by the harmful UV rays from the sun. Inflate the tires to the manufacturer’s recommended pressure and cover the tires with covers that will block out the sunlight. Place something like a piece of wood between the ground and the tires. Frozen ground and petroleum based surfaces, like asphalt, can damage tires over time. Make sure that whatever you use to block the tires is larger than the footprint of the tire. No portion of the tire should hang over the edge of the tire block; this can cause internal damage to the tire. For trailers, chock the wheels front and rear. If you are storing a pop-up outdoors angle the tongue downward to assist in snow and water run-off.

Battery maintenance is an important part of winter storage preparation. If you plan to start the unit while in storage, and to periodically plug the unit into shore power leave the batteries in the unit. Plugging it into shore power once a month for about eight hours will help keep the coach batteries topped off. At a minimum you should check and adjust the water levels in all batteries and make sure the batteries are fully charged. A discharged battery will freeze much quicker than a fully charged battery. If the RV is in long-term storage it’s better to remove the batteries and store them where they will not freeze. In either case keep the batteries fully charged when they are in storage.

Note: If your converter charger doesn’t have a three stage charging system (or storage maintenance mode) don’t leave the unit plugged in constantly. This could overcharge the batteries and deplete the electrolyte levels.

If it’s a motorized RV you should fill the fuel tank prior to storage and add a fuel stabilizer. Run the engine and the generator long enough for the stabilizer to get through the entire fuel system. Change the oil and oil filter on the engine and the generator prior to storage. Acids accumulate in used oil and can corrode engine bearings, especially while sitting for long periods of time. If possible exercise the generator for at least two hours every month with a minimum of a ½ rated load on it. Consult your generator owner’s manual for load ratings.

Winterizing Part 2: How to prepare the RV plumbing system for the cold winter months.

If you would like to learn more about winterizing & storing your RV check out our Winterizing & Storing your RV ebook
and Winterizing and Storing Your RV video
Happy Camping,

Mark J. Polk

RV Education 101

RV University

Copyright 2009 by Mark Polk, owner of RV Education 101

Debunking Portable Air Compressors

I think most RVers understand the importance of maintaining proper tire inflation pressure. The problem is if you wait until you’re on the road to check tire pressure the tires are too hot for correct evaluation. Checking the inflation pressure when you stop to refuel doesn’t make sense; you will get higher pressure readings and if you let air out the tires they are underinflated when they are cold. Another problem is when you are at the campground, and you want to check the tire pressure, there is no available air support to do it.

This is why you might want to consider purchasing a portable air compressor. But, air compressors can be confusing to understand, especially if you are trying to find one that is capable of increasing the inflation pressure in large motorhome tires. Let’s start with some air compressor basics.

Air compressors have 3 main ratings associated with them, horsepower (HP), Cubic Feet per Minute (CFM) and Pounds per Square Inch (PSI). Understanding these 3 functions of an air compressor can help us select the right portable air compressor for the job.

We’ll start with horsepower. Unfortunately when it comes to air compressors manufacturers don’t do a great job of explaining it to the consumer, almost to the point some would consider false advertising. Manufacturers tend to over-inflate HP ratings, assuming if the consumer see’s 6 HP advertised, rather than 2 HP, they are more apt to purchase the higher HP rated compressor. This is true in many situations. If you’re a muscle car enthusiast you would definitely consider the HP rating of a vehicle before buying it, right? But if we take a closer look at horsepower, as it relates to air compressors, we can seek out the truth.

Horsepower was invented by an engineer by the name of James Watt. The same watt you think about when buying a light bulb. Watt is used as a measure of electrical and mechanical power. When we apply watts to HP, one HP is equivalent to 746 watts. So if you buy an air compressor rated at 6 HP and it operates on 120 volts it is, in a sense, a false rating. Here is why. If you plug the compressor into a standard 15 amp, 120 volt circuit it would only produce about 2HP (120 volts X 15 amps = 1800 watts).  This is slightly over a 2 horse power rating.

The higher 6 HP rating advertised is commonly referred to as peak HP, similar to a vehicles engine HP rating. The peak HP rating of a vehicle engine is only accurate at a higher RPM range (usually 5000 to 6,000 RPM’s), but rarely do you drive at 5,500 RPM’s. As for the air compressor it would require more amps, from a 240 volt circuit, to produce this peak HP rating.

The Cubic Feet per Minute (CFM) is an important rating when it comes to portable air compressors. CFM is basically a measurement of the rate a compressor can deliver a volume of air. CFM varies with atmospheric pressure. It also varies with the temperature and humidity of the air. Air compressor manufacturers calculate Standard Cubic Feet per Minute (SCFM) as CFM at sea level with 68 degrees F, at 36% relative humidity.

Note: CFM ratings can be skewed by the manufacturer too. Let me explain

Let’s talk about our third rating, Pounds per Square Inch (PSI). For air compressors the CFM ratings are given at a specific PSI. In other words an air compressor rated at 3 CFM @ 90 PSI should be capable of delivering the 3 CFM at 90 PSI. The problem is air compressor manufacturers can advertise a higher CFM at a specific pressure because the air compressor is capable of delivering the rated CFM going from 0 to 90 PSI, but what is the true CFM delivered at 90 PSI. If your air tools or RV tires require a specific CFM rating at 90 PSI you more than likely won’t get it based on the advertised CFM @ a specific pressure. What this translates too is that it will take a long time to inflate some larger RV tires, if the compressor is in fact capable of inflating the tires at all.

When shopping for a portable air compressor the key is to try and find one that can deliver about 4 REAL CFM based on the REAL HP rating at 90 to 100 PSI.

If you have the storage room available, and you will have access to electricity, you can find some reliable pancake style portable compressors that will do a good job inflating tires and performing other small household jobs.

Happy Camping,

Mark Polk

RV Education 101

RV University

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Winter Battery Storage

I was recently asked a question and felt like the answer could be useful to lots of RVers, so I am using the question as the topic for this article.

Q: Hi Mark, we live in Virginia and are preparing our RV for winter storage. I just had the RV winterized, but I am concerned about how or what to do to properly store my RV batteries. Do you have any advice?

Mark's Answer: The two most common causes for RV battery failure are undercharging and overcharging. Undercharging is a result of batteries being repeatedly discharged and not fully recharged between cycles. If a battery is not recharged the sulfate material that attaches to the discharged portions of the plates begins to harden into crystals. Over time this sulfate cannot be converted back into active plate material and the battery is ruined. This also occurs when a battery remains discharged for an extended period of time, like during storage. Sulfation is the number one cause of battery failure. The second leading cause of battery failure is overcharging. Overcharging batteries results in severe water loss and plate corrosion. With that said let’s look at how to properly store your RV batteries.

Before we talk about storing the batteries we need to talk about battery safety. Lead acid batteries contain sulfuric acid which is extremely corrosive and can cause severe burns or even blindness. And the hydrogen gas that batteries produce when they’re charging is very explosive. When you work around batteries you need to wear goggles and gloves, remove all jewelry and do not smoke or use any open flames.

Caution: If you accidentally get battery acid on your skin, flush it with lots of water and if it gets in your eyes flush with low pressure water for 15 minutes and call a doctor.

When you put the RV in long term storage it’s a good idea to remove the batteries and put them in storage too. This is quite simple to do. The first thing we want to do is visually inspect the batteries for any obvious damage. Any fluid on or around the battery may be an indication that electrolyte is leaking from the battery. A damaged or leaking battery should be replaced immediately. Whenever you remove any battery always remember to remove the negative terminal or cable first, and then the positive cable.

Battery Tip: When you remove a battery turn off the ignition switch, all electrical switches, and any battery disconnect switches before you disconnect the battery cables. Whenever you remove any battery cables label them first so you remember how they go back on the battery. When you reinstall the battery do it in the reverse order. Install the positive cable first and then the negative cable.

Clean the batteries with a 50/50 mixture of baking soda and water if necessary, i.e. use one pound of baking soda to one gallon of water. Now you can check the electrolyte level in each cell and add distilled water if necessary. The minimum level required is at the top of the plates. If it’s below the plates add enough distilled water to cover the plates before you charge the battery.

Test the battery state of charge with a voltmeter or hydrometer and charge any batteries that are at or below 80%. An 80% charge is approximately 12.5 volts for a 12 volt battery and 6.25 volts for a 6 volt battery. Lead sulfation starts when a battery state of charge drops below 80%. After charging the batteries check and fill each cell to 1/8 inch below the fill well with distilled water. Overfilling cells will cause battery acid to overflow.

Caution: Batteries should only be charged in a well ventilated area and keep any sparks and open flames away from a battery being charged. Check the electrolyte levels before and after charging batteries.

A discharged or partially charged battery will freeze much faster than a charged battery. Store the batteries in a cool dry place but not where they could freeze. Batteries in storage will loose a percentage of current through internal leakage. It’s not uncommon for a battery to discharge up to 10% a month when it is being stored. Cold temperatures slow this natural discharge process down and warmer temperatures speed the process up. Test the stored battery state of charge every month and charge batteries that are at or below an 80% state of charge.

Completely charge the batteries before re-installing them next spring. For optimum performance you can equalize the batteries after they are fully charged. An equalizing charge is an increase in charging voltage similar to a bulk charge to convert any crystallized lead sulfate back into its original components.

If you decide to leave the batteries in the RV while it is in storage remember to check the state of charge monthly and charge any batteries at or below an 80% charge. Some RV converter multi-stage chargers and aftermarket chargers are designed to maintain a float charge on the battery without removing the batteries from the RV. Remember, for the converter charger to work the RV will need to be plugged in to electricity.

For more information on RV batteries check out our Deep Cycle Battery Care & Maintenance DVD available at www.rveducation101.com

Happy Camping,

Mark Polk

Winter Battery Storage

I was recently asked a question and felt like the answer could be useful to lots of RVers, so I am using the question as the topic for this article.

Q: Hi Mark, we live in Virginia and are preparing our RV for winter storage. I just had the RV winterized, but I am concerned about how or what to do to properly store my RV batteries. Do you have any advice?

Mark Says: The two most common causes for RV battery failure are undercharging and overcharging. Undercharging is a result of batteries being repeatedly discharged and not fully recharged between cycles. If a battery is not recharged the sulfate material that attaches to the discharged portions of the plates begins to harden into crystals. Over time this sulfate cannot be converted back into active plate material and the battery is ruined. This also occurs when a battery remains discharged for an extended period of time, like during storage. Sulfation is the number one cause of battery failure. The second leading cause of battery failure is overcharging. Overcharging batteries results in severe water loss and plate corrosion. With that said let’s look at how to properly store your RV batteries.

Before we talk about storing the batteries we need to talk about battery safety. Lead acid batteries contain sulfuric acid which is extremely corrosive and can cause severe burns or even blindness. And the hydrogen gas that batteries produce when they’re charging is very explosive. When you work around batteries you need to wear goggles and gloves, remove all jewelry and do not smoke or use any open flames.

Caution: If you accidentally get battery acid on your skin, flush it with lots of water and if it gets in your eyes flush with low pressure water for 15 minutes and call a doctor.

When you put the RV in long term storage it’s a good idea to remove the batteries and put them in storage too. This is quite simple to do. The first thing we want to do is visually inspect the batteries for any obvious damage. Any fluid on or around the battery may be an indication that electrolyte is leaking from the battery. A damaged or leaking battery should be replaced immediately. Whenever you remove any battery always remember to remove the negative terminal or cable first, and then the positive cable.

Battery Tip: When you remove a battery turn off the ignition switch, all electrical switches, and any battery disconnect switches before you disconnect the battery cables. Whenever you remove any battery cables label them first so you remember how they go back on the battery. When you reinstall the battery do it in the reverse order. Install the positive cable first and then the negative cable.

Clean the batteries with a 50/50 mixture of baking soda and water if necessary, i.e. use one pound of baking soda to one gallon of water. Now you can check the electrolyte level in each cell and add distilled water if necessary. The minimum level required is at the top of the plates. If it’s below the plates add enough distilled water to cover the plates before you charge the battery.

Test the battery state of charge with a voltmeter or hydrometer and charge any batteries that are at or below 80%. An 80% charge is approximately 12.5 volts for a 12 volt battery and 6.25 volts for a 6 volt battery. Lead sulfation starts when a battery state of charge drops below 80%. After charging the batteries check and fill each cell to 1/8 inch below the fill well with distilled water. Overfilling cells will cause battery acid to overflow.

Caution: Batteries should only be charged in a well ventilated area and keep any sparks and open flames away from a battery being charged. Check the electrolyte levels before and after charging batteries.

A discharged or partially charged battery will freeze much faster than a charged battery. Store the batteries in a cool dry place but not where they could freeze. Batteries in storage will loose a percentage of current through internal leakage. It’s not uncommon for a battery to discharge up to 10% a month when it is being stored. Cold temperatures slow this natural discharge process down and warmer temperatures speed the process up. Test the
stored battery state of charge every month and charge batteries that are at or below an 80% state of charge.

Completely charge the batteries before re-installing them next spring. For optimum performance you can equalize the batteries after they are fully charged. An equalizing charge is an increase in charging voltage similar to a bulk charge to convert any crystallized lead sulfate back into its original components.

If you decide to leave the batteries in the RV while it is in storage remember to check the state of charge monthly and charge any batteries at or below an 80% charge. Some RV converter multi-stage chargers and aftermarket chargers are designed to maintain a float charge on the battery without removing the batteries from the RV. Remember, for the converter charger to work the RV will need to be plugged in to electricity.

For more information on RV batteries check out our Deep Cycle Battery Care & Maintenance DVD available at www.rveducation101.com

Happy Camping,

Mark Polk

Preventive Maintenance Checks for an RV Generator

Preventive Maintenance (PM) is maintenance the owner can perform on your RV before a problem exists. These checks are designed to prevent or identify potential problems that could lead to mechanical breakdown, malfunction or failure of a component or system on your RV. Preventive Maintenance consists of cleaning, inspecting, lubricating, adjusting and servicing your RV.
Here are some PM checks you can perform on a typical RV generator. In addition to these checks you should always follow the maintenance schedule and guidelines that came with your specific generator set.
Note: These PM checks are for a gasoline fueled generator. There are diesel propane fueled generators too. Some of these checks apply to all types, but some don’t. Consult your generator owner’s manual for maintenance checks and services for your specific generator.

1) Always check the oil level and the exhaust system prior to starting the generator. Starting and running a generator that is low on oil can result in costly damage to the generator’s engine. Add oil as required. Check your owner manual for the type of oil to use. A damaged exhaust system can result in carbon monoxide gas getting inside the RV. Always inspect the entire generator exhaust system prior to starting the generator. Never operate a generator with a damaged exhaust system!

2)Keep the generator set and the compartment it is housed in clean. You can use compressed air to assist in cleaning out the generator compartment and a clean shop rag to clean the generator set. While you are cleaning the generator check all electrical connectors for secure connections.
Note: always wear safety glasses when using compressed air.

3)Check all of the filters on the generator. A typical generator may have an air filter, fuel filter and oil filter. Check your generator owner manual for the types of filters your generator has and where they are located. Maintenance checks and services for a generator are based on hours of operation. You need to monitor the hour meter on your generator set for all maintenance intervals.

a)Check the air filter for cleanliness. You can remove it and inspect the fins on the back for signs of dirt or debris. You can tap the air filter on a flat surface to help remove some of the dirt and debris. Change a dirty filter, or change it at prescribed intervals. Inspect the air filter more often in dusty conditions.

b)The fuel filter will typically be an in-line type filter. Over time it filters out and collects enough debris that it can interfere with the flow of fuel. Check and replace the fuel filter at prescribed intervals.

c)We’ll talk about the oil filter in just a minute.

4)Change the oil and oil filter (if equipped). This is perhaps the most important PM Service you can perform on your generator to ensure years of reliable service. Change the oil and replace the oil filter at the recommended intervals. It’s really quite simple to do. Your generator owner’s manual will usually describe the steps to follow. If you don’t feel comfortable changing the oil and filter have an authorized RV service center do it for you.

5)Replace the spark plugs at recommended intervals. If you ever replaced the spark plugs in a vehicle you can replace the plugs in the generator, unless due to the constraints of the generator compartment you can’t access the spark plugs. In this case you may want to let an authorized RV service center do it for you. If you decide to do it yourself check your generator owner manual for the correct type of plug to use and double check the spark plug gap before installing the plugs. Do not over tighten spark plugs!

6)Exercise the generator. There are several reasons why you should start and exercise the generator on a regular basis. Moisture build up can cause damage to your generator. When you exercise your generator it heats up the generator windings and eliminates this moisture build up. This monthly exercise regime also lubricates all of the engine seals and components and helps to prevent carbon build up. So, what exactly do I mean when I say exercise your generator? For a gasoline generator I mean that you start and run the generator with at least a 50 % load, for at least two hours every month. It is extremely important that you run it with this minimum rated load. Generators are designed to run with a load placed on them. It’s always better to let your generator run for longer time periods than it is for short time periods. Check your generator owner’s manual for load ratings specific to your unit. Always try to avoid starting or stopping a generator when there is a 120 volt device or appliance turned on.

7)Add a fuel stabilizer during periods of storage or non-use. If it’s a motorhome add a fuel stabilizer to the motorhomes gas tank and run the generator long enough for the stabilizer to get through the fuel system. This will help prevent gas related problems on carbureted generators, like not starting or surging. These are problems you don’t need. Fuel stabilizers can protect the fuel system for up to six months, but keep in mind the importance to exercise the generator when possible.

Well there you have it. Follow these simple steps, and the maintenance and service instructions in the generator owner’s manual, and you can get years of reliable service from your generator set.

A couple of additional tips for generator maintenance are to keep the battery that is used to start the generator maintained, and when running the generator monitor the AC voltage and frequency output with some type of digital plug in meter. I recommend one that can test campground polarity, measure AC line voltage and AC frequency. Frequency is the number of times that electricity alternates per second. U.S. appliances are designed to operate at 60 cycles per second, or 60 hertz.

When you use your generator the governor in the generator must hold the speed constant at, or close to 60 hertz from no load on the generator to a full load. Depending on the load placed on the generator, AC voltage can range from 105 to 135 volts and the frequency can range from 58 to 63 hertz. Anything outside of these parameters can cause problems for your RV electrical system and/or generator set. The meter will let you know when the generator is not operating within the proper ranges and you can have it checked out and repaired before any damage occurs.

Happy Camping,
Mark J. Polk

RV Education 101

RV University

copyright 2009 by Mark Polk owner of RV Education 101

Winter RV Battery Storage & Maintenance

I was recently asked a question and felt like the answer could be useful to lots of RVers, so I am using the question as the topic for this article.

Q: Hi Mark, we live in Colorado and we are preparing our RV for storage. I just had the RV winterized, but I am concerned about how or what to do to store my RV batteries. Any advice would be appreciated.

A: The two most common causes for RV battery failure are undercharging and overcharging. Undercharging is a result of batteries being repeatedly discharged and not fully recharged between cycles. If a battery is not recharged the sulfate material that attaches to the discharged portions of the plates begins to harden into crystals. Over time this sulfate cannot be converted back into active plate material and the battery is ruined. This also occurs when a battery remains discharged for an extended period of time, like during storage. Sulfation is the number one cause of battery failure. The second leading cause of battery failure is overcharging. Overcharging batteries results in severe water loss and plate corrosion. With that said let’s look at how to properly store your RV batteries.

Before we talk about storing the batteries we need to talk about battery safety. Lead acid batteries contain sulfuric acid which is extremely corrosive and can cause severe burns or even blindness. And the hydrogen gas that batteries produce, when they’re charging, is very explosive. When you work around batteries you need to wear safety glasses and gloves, remove all jewelry and do not smoke or use any open flames.

Caution: If you accidentally get battery acid on your skin, flush it with lots of water and if it gets in your eyes flush with low pressure water for 15 minutes and call a doctor.

When you put the RV in long term storage it’s a good idea to remove the batteries and put them in storage too. This is quite simple to do. The first thing we want to do is visually inspect the batteries for any obvious damage. Any fluid on or around the battery may be an indication that electrolyte is leaking from the battery. A damaged or leaking battery should be replaced immediately. Whenever you remove any battery always remember to remove the negative terminal or cable first, and then the positive cable.

Battery Tip: When you remove a battery turn off the ignition switch, all electrical switches, and any battery disconnect switches before you disconnect the battery cables. Whenever you remove any battery cables label them first so you remember how they go back on the battery next spring. When you reinstall the battery do it in the reverse order. Install the positive cable first and then the negative cable.

Clean the batteries with a 50/50 mixture of baking soda and water if necessary. Now you can check the electrolyte level in each cell and add distilled water if necessary. The minimum level required, before charging a battery, is at the top of the plates. If it’s below the plates add enough distilled water to cover the plates before you charge the battery.

Test the battery state of charge with a voltmeter or hydrometer and charge any batteries that are at or below 80% state of charge. An 80% charge is approximately 12.5 volts for a 12-volt battery and 6.25 volts for a 6-volt battery. Lead sulfation starts when a battery state of charge drops below 80%. After charging the batteries check and fill each cell to 1/8 inch below the fill well with distilled water. Overfilling cells will cause battery acid to overflow.

Caution: Batteries should only be charged in a well ventilated area and keep any sparks and open flames away from a battery being charged.

Check the electrolyte levels before and after charging batteries.
A discharged or partially charged battery will freeze much faster than a charged battery. Store the batteries in a cool dry place but not where they could freeze. Batteries in storage will loose a percentage of current through internal leakage. It’s not uncommon for a battery to discharge up to 10% a month when it is being stored. Cold temperatures slow this natural discharge process down and warmer temperatures speed the process up. Test the stored battery state of charge every month and charge batteries that are at or below an 80% state of charge.

Completely charge the batteries before re-installing them next spring. For optimum performance you can equalize the batteries after they are fully charged. Battery equalizing is a controlled overcharge on a flooded lead acid battery after it has been fully charged. Equalizing reverses the buildup of negative chemical effects like stratification, a condition where the water and acid separate and the acid concentration is greater at the bottom of the battery than at the top. Equalizing also helps remove some of the sulfate build up on the battery plates. Equalizing is fine as long as there is not excessive heating or electrolyte boiling over. Some battery chargers have an equalization cycle or charge setting. After charging a battery, set the battery charger on equalizing voltage and charge it again. You need to test the specific gravity every hour during equalizing.

Equalization is complete when the specific gravity readings no longer rise during the gassing or bubbling stage. Keep in mind if equalizing a battery is done correctly the electrolyte should not boil over but it will create a good bit of bubbling, and when the cycle is finished you will need to add distilled water to the cells.

Note: If you don’t feel comfortable working on or around lead acid batteries have battery maintenance done by an authorized service center.

If you decide to leave the batteries in the RV while it is in storage remember to check the state of charge monthly and charge any batteries at or below an 80% charge. If your RV converter charger charges the battery(s) at a constant rate (around 13.5 volts) this is too high for a float charge and can deplete the electrolyte over time. In this situation plug the RV in periodically and allow the converter charger to charge the battery(s) for 8 to 12 hours. Some RV converter multi-stage chargers and aftermarket chargers are designed to maintain a float charge on the battery without removing the batteries from the RV. Remember, for the converter charger to work the RV will need to be plugged in to electricity.

Watch a video clip on Saving your RV Batteries

For more in depth information on RV batteries check out our Deep Cycle Battery Care & Maintenance DVD

Happy Camping,

Mark Polk

RV Education 101

RV University