Finally a Towing Standard on the Horizon!

What is J2807 and why is it important? If you haven’t heard, SAE J2807 is a standard that will be used to determine the trailer weight rating of all tow vehicles.

I don’t always agree with mandated standards, government or otherwise, but there is one standard looming out there that I am highly in favor of.

That standard is called “Performance Requirements for Determining Tow Vehicle Gross Combination Weight Ratings and Trailer Weight Ratings,” or in shorter terms Society of Engineers (SAE) standard J2807.

I do have to applaud manufacturers for getting behind and supporting a standard for measuring tow ratings for vehicles.

I have always had a problem with vehicle manufacturer published tow ratings, and even more so in the truck wars of recent years. When a ½ truck is rated to tow more than its bigger ¾ ton brothers I start to see red flags popping up everywhere. To bring you up to speed on this topic take a minute to read my first article titled “let’s Talk 1/2 Ton Trucks” that I wrote in 2007, and my follow-up article “2010 Let’s Talk 1/2 ton Trucks” which I wrote a couple of years later.

In my humble opinion the towing truck wars have always been based on bragging rights. My truck can tow more than your truck. And in reality the method for determining those bragging rights was left up to the guy who was doing the bragging.

The reason for some of these unrealistic tow capacities, at least the way I see it, was until now vehicle manufacturers had free reign to test and determine a vehicles tow capacity based on its own criteria. If somebody tells you to perform your own testing and publish the results the tendency is to test in a direction favorable to the design of the said vehicle you are testing. Therefore “my truck can tow more than your truck!”

On the other hand if you test against a specific standard you get results based on that standard, not just on some of the design elements built into the product being tested. In other words you get actual results and there is no bully on the block boasting I can tow more than you can. Now we know the real deal and the consumer wins in the end because you have a standard to compare and measure vehicles against.

This new standard will measure a vehicles towing performance based on several criteria using a standard test trailer. These criteria are:

1) Maintaining speed on a specified grade

2) Timed acceleration on level terrain

3) Timed acceleration up a 12% grade

4) Response to trailer sway

5) Braking characteristics at Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCW)

6) Hitch receiver structure and strength

To give you an example of what occurs when you apply these new standards Toyota put its 2011 Tundra through the paces. The results were towing capacities dropping 400lbs, 500lbs and 1,100lbs for various models of the Tundra, over previously published capacities.

I think it is notable for Toyota to step up to the plate and certify the Tundra against the new standards. It looks as though all of the other manufacturers are going to follow suit for model year 2013, including Chrysler, GM, Ford and Honda, and many trailer and hitch manufacturers as well.

It will be interesting to see what happens to tow capacities when J2807 is implemented across the board. I would venture to say that many other ½ ton tow ratings and Gross Combined Weight Ratings (GCWR) will be lowered, but hey we’ll just have to wait and see.

This J2807standard may not answer all of the questions we have or provide all of the information we want, but it’s long overdue that a standard be established for something as important as determining tow ratings.

Now maybe the consumer will have some reliable information to base a decision on when deciding which vehicle can safely tow the load! It sure beats the “my truck can tow more than your truck” mentality.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
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Towing Question

Q. Thank you for trying to help with my towing question. For over 6 months I have been trying to get a correct answer to this question, and maybe there is not a correct answer. I have two cars, a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan front wheel drive, auto transmission, and a 1998 Pontiac Grand Am (It can be towed 4-wheels down) . I bought a tow dolly so I can tow either the car or Van. Dodge says not to tow the van on a tow dolly. I called the factory, and their reasoning is because it is so high that the dolly makes the center of gravity higher, not a mechanical problem. The Pontiac is also a auto transmission, front wheel drive car. The steering wheel doesn't lock on either of these car when the key is removed or in place. U-haul in their flyer says the steering wheel must be tied off. Other RVers have said the same for both of these cars. Others say no, you do not have to tie off the steering wheel. Master tow (tow dolly manufacturer) says yes, you do have to tie the wheel off if the steering wheel does NOT lock. Have you any input on this subject.

Mark Says: I have experience with Roadmaster and Master Tow tow dollies . Master Tow is only about 20 miles from where we live and we have actually done some filming at their plant for the RVTV show.

Both of these manufacturers say the steering wheel must be locked or secured and this is why.

This is an excerpt from the Roadmaster Inc. owners manual:

The towed cars steering wheel must be locked when towing. Failure to lock the steering will allow the towed car to pivot on the bed causing it to hit the fender and wheel assembly of the dolly. Severe damage will result to both vehicles.

I would follow the guidance you received from Master Tow on using a ratchet strap to secure the front wheels in a straight forward position.

I hope this answers your question. I'm not sure about Dodge's reason for not towing the van on a tow dolly.

***********
Copyright 2008 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101

RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. http://www.rveducation101.com/

May 2007 RV Questions & Answers by Mark Polk

RV Education 101 is Sponsored by National Interstate Insurance Company

*NOTE: At Mark's discretion, material might be edited to suit a wide audience. Due to the large volume of material and correspondence we receive, individual replies might not be possible, nor can we acknowledge receipt of submitted material. Selected questions will be answered in future issues of our RV Education 101 newsletter and on our site. Thank-you for your understanding.

Q: We have a Pop Up and my husband and I can never seem to back it in to the camp sight where we want it to go. Do you have any advice or ideas?

Mark says: I have a method that has always worked well for me with two people working together. First decide who will drive and who will give directions. Let’s say your husband is driving. For this to work you are his eyes and he needs to do exactly what you tell him. When you are ready to back it in, you stand in front of the vehicle where you can see the trailer and communicate with your husband. He puts his hand on the top of the steering wheel and slowly turns the wheel in the direction you tell him. If you want the back of the trailer to go to your right you tell him to turn the steering wheel to the right. If you want it to go to the left tell him to slowly turn the wheel to the left. Don’t get upset if you need to pull forward and start over. With a little practice you’ll be backing like the pros. There is an excellent video available that not only demonstrates methods for backing a Pop Up, but it covers everything you need to know about using Pop Ups too. http://rveducation101.com/detailedinformation.asp?ID=1454

Q: After we decided to buy a travel trailer the dealer told us we would need to spend another $1,000 dollars on hitch work. Isn’t this a little unreasonable?

Mark says: The dealer should have explained the importance of proper hitch work during the sale. It is for your own safety and the safety of your loved one’s. If your particular purchase requires a weight-distributing hitch, dual cam sway control, electric brake control and wiring then 1,000 dollars is not unreasonable. Any reputable RV dealer will not sell the trailer without the proper hitch work.

Q: I have heard people talk about the 75% rule of thumb for towing. How does this work?

Mark says: There is some confusion on this subject. A lot of people say that you take the manufacturers tow rating for a vehicle and multiply it by 75% and this is the maximum weight you should tow. For example a tow rating of 8,000 pounds X 75% = 6,000 pounds. The 75 % rule is designed to build in a margin of safety. The way that I understand it and apply it is that you take the Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) of the tow vehicle X 75%, and the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of the tow vehicle X 75%. Once you determine this you subtract the two and this is the maximum weight you should tow. Using the same example above that vehicles GCWR is 14,000 pounds X 75% = 10,500 pounds. The GVWR is 8,800 X 75% = 6,600 pounds. 10,500 minus 6,600 = 3,900 pounds. I apply this rule if you plan to tow in high elevations. A gasoline engine looses 3 to 4 percent of its power for every 1,000 feet above sea level. The 75% rule compensates for that lose in power.

Q:My 2006 Toyota Tundra Quad Cab truck has a GCVWR of 11,800 (12,200 from another source), let's be conservative and say 11,800. The truck does have factory installed towing package. Tow rating on truck with tow package is 7100lbs according to owners mannual. Trailer has dry weight of 5190 and gross weight rating of 6500lbs. My estimates on cargo and add on's, I have estimated at around 850 to 900lbs. If we did any dry camping it would be very rare. So I'm not allowing for a lot of water weight.

So, loaded trailer weight should be about 6040lbs. Looking at it from this point I have almost 1100lbs of slack. But from at GCWR I'm pushing the envelope on weight. I do have a oil cooler with tow package. I have a prodigy brake controller, and I'm going with your recommendation and purchase an "Equalizer" hitch. They are kinda of high $$$, but I feel it will be money well spent. My truck also has a tow mode on the transmission. It takes it out of overdrive and runs the truck in 3rd gear. (There goes gas mileage!!)

The Jayco trailer I am looking at and the weight of the truck, put me at 98% of the GCVWR. I know the lower percentage the better, but what I can't get a straight answer on is being at 98% will the truck still pull O.K. I don't want to put the truck in a bind, and I don't want to spend 20 minutes trying to get up a hill either. I have weighed my truck on a scale as recommended. It was loaded and full of gas. I probably went a little overboard putting fire wood in the bed to get some extra weight. Just trying to figure on high side. I have also taken dry weight of trailer and have added for propane, hitch weight, some water, and personnel food and gear. (Food & Gear I used about 350lbs.) Just some added info. Based on the length of the wheel base of my truck. I'm just about at the maxium on trailer length too. I am going to purchase weight distribution and sway control hitch. I just can't get a clear answer on towing ability at these weights from anyone. You're not trying to sell me a travel trailer, so any information you can provide me will be helpful.

I also have purchased your Video Series: http://rveducation101.com/detailedinformation.asp?ID=2169on RV's and have gained a lot of information. This is our first RV and we have a lot to learn. We need all the help we can get.


Mark says:I had a chance to review the information you sent. I have always said if the tow vehicle tow rating is higher than the trailers GVWR you are in pretty good shape (as long as you don't overload the trailer). And the key to the GCWR is to keep it below the GVW of the combined truck and trailer which you are, even though it is at 98%, it is below. If you plan to pull the trailer in the mountains a gas engine will loose 3 to 4% of its power at higher elevations and you may want to re-calulate your figures.

Copyright 2007 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101

RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. http://www.rveducation101.com/