Optimum Trailer Braking

If there is one phrase I advocate it would be “you get what you pay for”. This phrase always holds true, regardless of what you are purchasing. If you are going to buy a product intended to perform a specific job it only makes sense to pay a little extra and get one that does the job flawlessly.


Let’s apply “you get what you pay for” to an important topic like towing a trailer. For the sake of an example let’s say you (the RV consumer) purchase a 6,000 pound travel trailer to tow behind your ½ ton truck. The brakes on the truck are designed to stop the truck, but not an additional 6,000 pounds behind the truck. You are aware that you need to purchase an electronic trailer brake controller to supply power from the tow vehicle to the trailer’s electric brakes. You soon discover there are lots of different choices when it comes to electric brake controllers, and they come in a wide price range too. Do you purchase the $50 time based model and hope it works effectively? Stopping a 6,000 pound trailer is not something you should take lightly. It is a safety issue for you, your loved ones and everybody else traveling on the same road as you.

This is where the phrase “you get what you pay for” really matters. You have the choice to purchase a less expensive, very basic, time delayed electric brake controller and save a few bucks, or you can spend more and get a network based controller that plugs into the On Board Diagnostic II (OBD II) connector in the truck cab and gathers data from the tow vehicle to effectively manage the trailer brakes. The less expensive model sends a pre-determined amount of power to the trailer brakes every time you step on the brake pedal. What if the pre-determined amount of power isn’t enough for the current conditions? The more expensive model is a network based controller. This DirecLink network based controller can observe the engine, transmission and vehicle speed and then analyze all of the data to determine the proper level of trailer braking required to safely stop the trailer, based on all of the current conditions. It links with your vehicle’s computer network and uses multiple data parameters in a proprietary way to create amazingly proportional trailer braking. For safety, reliability, performance and longevity there is no question you should go with the better network based controller.

Getting a high quality brake controller is a smart decision, but the only way to achieve optimum braking performance from the controller is to ensure that it is properly installed. If you use scotch-locks to make wire connections, rather than the correct type of sealed wire connectors, the more expensive brake controller might not work any better than the $50 model. The same is true if you use the wrong gauge wire over a certain distance, resulting in a drop in voltage and less efficient braking.

For optimum trailer brakes everything in the brake system must be in good working order.

In addition to proper installation of the network based brake controller it is extremely important that you perform routine maintenance on the remainder of the trailer brake system. This includes but is not limited to a 3,000 mile, or annual inspection of the trailer brake and bearing components. If you don’t feel comfortable performing this type of maintenance yourself you should have an authorized RV service center do it for you.

All too often a trailer sits for periods of time not being used, and in many cases this non-use is for extended periods of time. When it’s time to use the trailer we tend to just hook it up and drive off without really considering what may have gone wrong while it sat in storage. It’s common for a battery to discharge, for tires to be dangerously low on air, and the trailer plug contacts to get dirty and corroded. If the trailer brakes don’t work properly because of a bad contact in the plug, or a tire fails because of under inflation it puts us and others in harm’s way.

To help prevent these types of things from happening I want to include a simple pre-trip trailer checklist you can follow to make sure your trailer is ready to hit the road.

After properly hitching the trailer (i.e. WDH adjustments, sway control, safety chains) to the vehicle make the following checks:

■Inspect the trailer plug and vehicle receptacle contacts for dirt, debris and corrosion. Clean the plug and contacts as required, ensuring a proper connection. Plug the cord in and test all of the trailer lights.

■Connect the trailer break-away lanyard to a secure connection on the tow vehicle.

■Test the operation of the trailer brakes. Remove any wheel chocks. Pull the trailer forward slightly and press the brake pedal to verify the trailer brakes are engaging. Test the brake controller manual override for proper operation.

■Check all tires for abnormal wear and any weather cracking/checking. If any cracks in the tire sidewalls are deeper than 1/32” have the tire inspected by a professional before towing the trailer.

■Check and adjust tire pressure in accordance with the federal certification label on the trailer or using the tire manufacturer load and inflation tables.

■Check the condition of the battery. Check the water level in each cell and add distilled water as required. Check the battery state of charge with a multimeter or battery hydrometer. If you don’t feel comfortable working on or around lead acid battery’s have battery maintenance performed by an authorized service center.

■Every 3,000 miles, or annually, schedule a trailer brake and wheel bearing inspection.

For more great checklists check out our bestselling Checklists for RVers e-book with over 90 pages of checklists on all aspects of RVing.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
RV Education 101
RV University
RV Orientation
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2010 Update, Let's Talk 1/2 Ton Trucks

Back in 2007, when the 2008 year model ½ ton trucks were being introduced, I wrote an article about the tow ratings Ford was advertising at the time. To sum the article up, Ford advertised that its F-150 was capable of towing 11,000 pounds. Now, for someone with some experience towing trailers I found this claim difficult to believe.

After some research I discovered that in 2004, 2005 and 2006 the highest tow rating for an F-150 was 9,900 pounds. In August of 2006 Ford announced the 2007 F-150 was capable of towing 10,500, and in January 2007 the tow capacity was increased to 11,000 pounds. According to the commercial the only difference between these trucks, to justify this increase, was a fully boxed frame.

I also found it interesting that this new, higher tow rating came out shortly after Toyota advertised a tow rating of 10,800 for its ½ ton Tundra. At the time I used a simple formula in an effort to verify the advertised tow ratings. If you take the Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) minus the vehicle curb weight (the actual weight of the truck, less passengers and cargo) we know roughly how much weight the truck can tow.

Note: In my example I used the curb weight listed by the vehicle manufacturer at the time.

The Toyota Tundra had a GCWR of 16,000 pounds, minus the curb weight of 5,200 = 10,800 pounds, which was the advertised tow rating of the Tundra at the time. The Ford F-150 had a new GCWR of 15,800 minus the curb weight of 5,125 = 10,675 pounds, which is 325 pounds less than the advertised 11,000 pound tow rating at the time. Things didn’t add up! And I didn’t understand how the truck’s GCWR increased from 15,300 to 15,800 pounds with little or no changes to the truck. Even with the higher GCWR the truck could not tow 11,000 pounds, at least not mathematically.

I have owned Dodge trucks for many years, and because I tow trailers quite often my last two Dodge trucks have been ¾ ton models. Both trucks were short wheelbase, 4-wheel drive, 5.7 liter, 2500 series trucks with 8,800 pound tow ratings. The last travel trailer I owned weighed in at 7,300 pounds when it was loaded, and although my ¾ ton truck could tow it I wasn’t always comfortable with the way it performed. So naturally when a ½ truck was advertised with a 1-ton plus higher rating than my ¾ ton truck it raised a red flag in my mind.

At the conclusion of my first article I asked, “At this rate what will happen with tow ratings by 2010?” Well the 2010 models are coming out, so let’s take a look at what’s happening with ½ ton truck tow ratings.
You can read my first article in its entirety.

I should probably begin this article when Edmunds Inside Line conducted a 2009 Full-Size Pickup Truck Comparison Test (Chevy Silverado vs. Dodge Ram vs. Ford F-150 vs. Toyota Tundra).

Of course the area of the testing I was most concerned about for this article was the tow test.

The following are excerpts from Edmunds website:

1) We added another task to our tow-test regimen this time. We always test trucks against their claimed capacity, ballasting each rig to a similar percentage of its particular Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR). But this produces different trailer weights for each combatant, and it confuses some readers. So we added a second test: a fixed-weight face-off in which each truck pulled an identical trailer up our test mountain.

2) And let’s not forget the trailers these trucks pulled. Our Fleetwood Prowler 230 RKS is a 29-foot camper that weighs 6,280 pounds with dry tanks. We also had a Fleetwood Backpack 210 FQ, a 3,880-pound unit that’s around 23 feet long. All the trucks pulled the heavier Prowler (ballasted to an even 6,500 pounds) in the fixed-weight test. Afterwards, trailers and ballast were manipulated to burden each truck to 80 percent of its GCWR.

3) 4th Place: 2009 Ford F-150 Lariat SuperCrew 4×4
Perhaps it’s optimized for towing, we theorized. A mere 6,500-pound trailer should be a minor annoyance for a truck with an 11,200-pound tow rating, right? Well, it didn’t work out that way. Simply put, the Ford got beaten on our 11.5-mile test grade, coming in dead last by 27 seconds in a test that should have stressed it least. It was the only truck to drop below 50 mph, sagging to 47.8 mph at one point, and it spent the most time at wide-open throttle. None of this should be a surprise. Physics suggests that a tepid 5.4-liter V8 that makes 310 hp (in the heaviest truck, no less) should not be able to out-tow others that boast 380 hp and up. Physics is right. Furthermore, the 3.73:1 axle ratio that’s needed to generate the advertised tow rating drastically affects every day fuel economy. Our unburdened F-150 achieved 12.6 mpg, well below the window sticker ratings of 14 mpg city and 18 mpg highway (which were achieved with the standard 3.55:1 ratio).This 2009 Ford F-150 is a nice truck in many ways, but it’s clearly time for a new engine. The 5.4-liter V8 is simply being asked to do too much.

Read the entire Tow Test Comparison here.

I find it interesting that the Ford truck came in last place in the tow test despite boasting the highest tow capacity of the four trucks tested. I also find it interesting that the Ford had the lowest horsepower and torque ratings, but claimed to have the highest tow rating.

If the ½ Ford, rated to tow 11,200 pounds, finished last in all of the tow test categories while towing a 6,500 pound trailer what would the results be when you add 4,700 more pounds to the trailer? I personally think this tow rating is inflated beyond a weight that is safe for the average consumer to ever consider towing, with any ½ ton truck. If you advertise an 11,200 pound tow rating somebody is going to put it to the test and just thinking about it makes me nervous.

Edmunds summed it up like this: Those Ford and Dodge tow ratings never made sense to us on paper, chiefly because the Ram’s 5.7-liter V8 makes 390 horsepower and 407 lb-ft of torque, while the F-150’s 5.4-liter aging mill makes but 310 horses and 365 lb-ft of torque.

Now let’s take a look at what 2010 has to offer for ½ ton truck tow ratings:

I was a little disappointed to see that the 2010 Dodge Ram 1500 tow rating was bumped up 1,500 pounds over the 2009 model with no real changes to the truck itself. The new Gross Combined Weight Rating of 15,500 pounds increases the Ram’s tow rating to 9,100. Of course the truck must be configured properly to achieve this tow rating. According to Edmunds some of the reason for the increase is because the Ram easily outperformed other trucks with much higher tow ratings when Edmunds conducted its 4-way truck comparison test.

Now the ½ ton Ram has a higher tow rating than my ¾ ton Ram. I don’t necessarily agree with this new updated capacity, but I will say 9,100 pounds is more believable than Ford’s advertised 11,200 pound rating.
Speaking of Ford, what does 2010 have in store for Ford ½ ton tow ratings? Whereas only one ½ ton model of 56 configurations available in 2008 claimed to be capable of safely towing 11,000 pounds; in 2010 Ford has ten ½ ton models with ratings of 11,000 pounds or more.

I personally disagree when a manufacturer claims that its ½ ton version of a truck with a 5.4L engine and 3.73 axle ratio can safely tow a 5 ½ ton trailer down the road. The 2010 model engine is 310 horsepower @ 5,000 RPMs and produces 390 lbs.-ft. of torque at 3,500 RPMs. The only time you will achieve this peak horsepower rating is when the truck is running at 5,000 RPM’s.

The formula used to convert torque to horsepower is to multiply torque by RPM / 5,252. If the engine produces 390 lbs.-ft. of torque @ 3,500 RPM this translates to about 260 HP, but how often do you drive at 3,500 RPMs? I couldn’t find any charts depicting the torque curve for this 5.4L Ford engine, but in reality at a lower RPM range it will be towing 11,000 pounds at much lower torque and horsepower ratings.

Tow ratings, weight terminology and vehicle ratings have always been difficult to sift through and understand. In my opinion to use the strategy of inflating ½ ton truck tow ratings, to 5 1/2 tons, in an effort to sell trucks is an injustice to the consumer. The consumer needs to be properly educated to safely tow heavy trailers, not misled by vehicle manufacturers.

Towing 11,000 pounds is better left to the larger, beefier ¾ ton and 1 ton trucks that manufacturers build. I just don’t get why they see it necessary to burden their ½ ton trucks with these kinds of hefty tow ratings.

I am a product of the sixties and very well understand vehicle manufacturers competing for the consumers business. Chevy and Ford had 427 engines, so Dodge came out with a 426 HEMI to stay competitive. Forty some years later Toyota comes out with a ½ ton truck they claim can tow 10,800 pounds and overnight a ½ ton Ford can miraculously tow 11,000 pounds. The ½ ton Dodge, with a lower tow rating, beats the Ford up in a comparison test, so Dodge increases its rating by 1,500 pounds. Come on guys!

The muscle car era is over and today’s more sophisticated buyer wants the truth. One of these manufacturers should stop being so competitive to be number one in every category and try the honest approach for once. Advertise that your ½ ton truck lineup can safely and efficiently tow a 6 or 7 thousand pound trailer and advise the consumer to look into your ¾ ton and 1 ton lineup if they are towing more weight than that. You might be surprised at how receptive the trailer towing buyer is to this honest approach.

For more in depth information on trailer towing check out our Trailer Towing, Weights, Hitchwork & Backing DVD

Happy & Safe Towing

Mark Polk

RV Education 101

RV University

Towing Question

Q. Thank you for trying to help with my towing question. For over 6 months I have been trying to get a correct answer to this question, and maybe there is not a correct answer. I have two cars, a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan front wheel drive, auto transmission, and a 1998 Pontiac Grand Am (It can be towed 4-wheels down) . I bought a tow dolly so I can tow either the car or Van. Dodge says not to tow the van on a tow dolly. I called the factory, and their reasoning is because it is so high that the dolly makes the center of gravity higher, not a mechanical problem. The Pontiac is also a auto transmission, front wheel drive car. The steering wheel doesn't lock on either of these car when the key is removed or in place. U-haul in their flyer says the steering wheel must be tied off. Other RVers have said the same for both of these cars. Others say no, you do not have to tie off the steering wheel. Master tow (tow dolly manufacturer) says yes, you do have to tie the wheel off if the steering wheel does NOT lock. Have you any input on this subject.

Mark Says: I have experience with Roadmaster and Master Tow tow dollies . Master Tow is only about 20 miles from where we live and we have actually done some filming at their plant for the RVTV show.

Both of these manufacturers say the steering wheel must be locked or secured and this is why.

This is an excerpt from the Roadmaster Inc. owners manual:

The towed cars steering wheel must be locked when towing. Failure to lock the steering will allow the towed car to pivot on the bed causing it to hit the fender and wheel assembly of the dolly. Severe damage will result to both vehicles.

I would follow the guidance you received from Master Tow on using a ratchet strap to secure the front wheels in a straight forward position.

I hope this answers your question. I'm not sure about Dodge's reason for not towing the van on a tow dolly.

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Copyright 2008 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101

RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. http://www.rveducation101.com/

May 2007 RV Questions & Answers by Mark Polk

RV Education 101 is Sponsored by National Interstate Insurance Company

*NOTE: At Mark's discretion, material might be edited to suit a wide audience. Due to the large volume of material and correspondence we receive, individual replies might not be possible, nor can we acknowledge receipt of submitted material. Selected questions will be answered in future issues of our RV Education 101 newsletter and on our site. Thank-you for your understanding.

Q: We have a Pop Up and my husband and I can never seem to back it in to the camp sight where we want it to go. Do you have any advice or ideas?

Mark says: I have a method that has always worked well for me with two people working together. First decide who will drive and who will give directions. Let’s say your husband is driving. For this to work you are his eyes and he needs to do exactly what you tell him. When you are ready to back it in, you stand in front of the vehicle where you can see the trailer and communicate with your husband. He puts his hand on the top of the steering wheel and slowly turns the wheel in the direction you tell him. If you want the back of the trailer to go to your right you tell him to turn the steering wheel to the right. If you want it to go to the left tell him to slowly turn the wheel to the left. Don’t get upset if you need to pull forward and start over. With a little practice you’ll be backing like the pros. There is an excellent video available that not only demonstrates methods for backing a Pop Up, but it covers everything you need to know about using Pop Ups too. http://rveducation101.com/detailedinformation.asp?ID=1454

Q: After we decided to buy a travel trailer the dealer told us we would need to spend another $1,000 dollars on hitch work. Isn’t this a little unreasonable?

Mark says: The dealer should have explained the importance of proper hitch work during the sale. It is for your own safety and the safety of your loved one’s. If your particular purchase requires a weight-distributing hitch, dual cam sway control, electric brake control and wiring then 1,000 dollars is not unreasonable. Any reputable RV dealer will not sell the trailer without the proper hitch work.

Q: I have heard people talk about the 75% rule of thumb for towing. How does this work?

Mark says: There is some confusion on this subject. A lot of people say that you take the manufacturers tow rating for a vehicle and multiply it by 75% and this is the maximum weight you should tow. For example a tow rating of 8,000 pounds X 75% = 6,000 pounds. The 75 % rule is designed to build in a margin of safety. The way that I understand it and apply it is that you take the Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) of the tow vehicle X 75%, and the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of the tow vehicle X 75%. Once you determine this you subtract the two and this is the maximum weight you should tow. Using the same example above that vehicles GCWR is 14,000 pounds X 75% = 10,500 pounds. The GVWR is 8,800 X 75% = 6,600 pounds. 10,500 minus 6,600 = 3,900 pounds. I apply this rule if you plan to tow in high elevations. A gasoline engine looses 3 to 4 percent of its power for every 1,000 feet above sea level. The 75% rule compensates for that lose in power.

Q:My 2006 Toyota Tundra Quad Cab truck has a GCVWR of 11,800 (12,200 from another source), let's be conservative and say 11,800. The truck does have factory installed towing package. Tow rating on truck with tow package is 7100lbs according to owners mannual. Trailer has dry weight of 5190 and gross weight rating of 6500lbs. My estimates on cargo and add on's, I have estimated at around 850 to 900lbs. If we did any dry camping it would be very rare. So I'm not allowing for a lot of water weight.

So, loaded trailer weight should be about 6040lbs. Looking at it from this point I have almost 1100lbs of slack. But from at GCWR I'm pushing the envelope on weight. I do have a oil cooler with tow package. I have a prodigy brake controller, and I'm going with your recommendation and purchase an "Equalizer" hitch. They are kinda of high $$$, but I feel it will be money well spent. My truck also has a tow mode on the transmission. It takes it out of overdrive and runs the truck in 3rd gear. (There goes gas mileage!!)

The Jayco trailer I am looking at and the weight of the truck, put me at 98% of the GCVWR. I know the lower percentage the better, but what I can't get a straight answer on is being at 98% will the truck still pull O.K. I don't want to put the truck in a bind, and I don't want to spend 20 minutes trying to get up a hill either. I have weighed my truck on a scale as recommended. It was loaded and full of gas. I probably went a little overboard putting fire wood in the bed to get some extra weight. Just trying to figure on high side. I have also taken dry weight of trailer and have added for propane, hitch weight, some water, and personnel food and gear. (Food & Gear I used about 350lbs.) Just some added info. Based on the length of the wheel base of my truck. I'm just about at the maxium on trailer length too. I am going to purchase weight distribution and sway control hitch. I just can't get a clear answer on towing ability at these weights from anyone. You're not trying to sell me a travel trailer, so any information you can provide me will be helpful.

I also have purchased your Video Series: http://rveducation101.com/detailedinformation.asp?ID=2169on RV's and have gained a lot of information. This is our first RV and we have a lot to learn. We need all the help we can get.


Mark says:I had a chance to review the information you sent. I have always said if the tow vehicle tow rating is higher than the trailers GVWR you are in pretty good shape (as long as you don't overload the trailer). And the key to the GCWR is to keep it below the GVW of the combined truck and trailer which you are, even though it is at 98%, it is below. If you plan to pull the trailer in the mountains a gas engine will loose 3 to 4% of its power at higher elevations and you may want to re-calulate your figures.

Copyright 2007 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101

RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. http://www.rveducation101.com/