Showing posts with label rv information. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rv information. Show all posts

Marks RV Mailbox - RVs Sitting Idle

Question:  When we are not using our RV, this could be for several months at a time, should I start the engine every week or so?

Mark’s Answer: I always add a fuel preservative to the fuel tank when our unit will sit idle for more than a couple months at a time. I run the engine and the generator long enough for the preservative to get through the fuel system. But, I still think it’s good to start and run the engine and generator at least monthly when in storage. It allows the oil to lubricate the dry components of the engine. When you run the generator be sure and run it with at least a half rated load on and if try to run it for at least an hour. You should be able to find the load ratings in the generator owners manual.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk


Is your RV an Orphan?

RV 101-
Question:  I’ve been trying to find information about orphan RVs and if they will be supported in some way or another. So far, I’ve come up with nothing concrete. In particular, I’m talking about Fleetwood Discovery, 2006-08 model years.

Marks Answer: An orphan RV is an RV that was built and sold and at some point after the sale the RV manufacturer went out of business , leaving the consumer with no warranty, parts or service network. Unfortunately this happened with lots of RV manufacturers across the country during the recession.

Orphan RV’s have been a problem for lots of RVers as more manufacturers have closed their doors. Fleetwood however will continue to support RV owners in warranty, parts and service. If a person owns a motorized Fleetwood product, built prior to the new Fleetwood ownership, warranty work and service work will be honored at current Fleetwood dealerships.

This isn’t to say they will all be happy to do the work (it’s sad but some dealerships don’t like to work on units they didn’t sell) but they are supposed to work on Fleetwood products. So, its safe to say there is a pretty strong network regardless of where your travels may take you.

One other thought is to consider a good service contract on the unit so it will still be covered after any factory warranty expires. Just do your home work and make sure it is a reputable company with a good network of dealers around the country who will honor the contract.

There are many orphaned RV owners who can’t get any support whatsoever and that is a sad fact, but motorized Fleetwood products do not fall into that category.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk


RV Education 101: The Largest Online Digital RV Training Provider

RV Education 101: The Largest Online Digital RV Training Provider

Learning RVs the Easy Way by RV E-Learning

Your premier online source for RV education! Mark Polk, the RV Savvy Guy and founder of RV Ed 101,
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RV information where you want it, when you want it! It’s as easy as…

 

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    RV Education 101 Announces Launch of New RV Consumer Site

    Harrells, NC – December 2010 -- RV Education 101, founded in 1999, announced the launch of a new RV consumer training site today. The URL is http://www.rvconsumer.com/. Mark Polk, founder and co-owner of RV Education 101 said, “We have worked on this RV consumer site for several months now, and are extremely excited to finally launch it.


    Tagged as “The Ultimate RV Education Center” Polk says, “This site is a culmination of all of our RV training efforts over the past decade, and is a one stop RV training site for the entire RV consumer’s training needs. One day I realized that if I consolidated all of our RV training material into one RV training site, it would in fact be the premier RV education center.”

    The RV training material Polk is referring to is his 18-RV instructional DVD’s, 13-published RV E-books, 3-published RV books, 4-RV online training programs, hundreds of published RV articles, RV product installation videos and RV product reviews.

    Dawn Polk, co-owner and marketing director, said, “Our thought behind this new site was to organize the vast field of RV’s and RVing into six major categories and offer the RV consumer invaluable information in each of these areas. The six categories are: RV consumer training, RV consumer buying, RV consumer safety, RV consumer products, RV consumer articles and advice and last but certainly not least, enjoying your RV. To help promote our new site and to introduce our RV videos on demand online training program we are offering a free RV safety e-course to anybody that would like to take it. You can visit www.rvconsumer.com for more details on the free RV safety e-course.

    Polk’s other RV educational sites are http://www.rveducation101.com/ and http://www.rvuniversity.com/.  The primary focus of these RV training sites has been to educate RV owners on how to properly and safely use and maintain their RV, using visual and written training materials. RV Education 101 has helped educate more than a quarter of a million RV enthusiasts over the past decade.

    For more information on these RV educational sites visit www.rvconsumer.com, http://www.rveducation101.com/
     and http://www.rvuniversity.com/
                                                                                             xxx

    More on Basic RV Electricity

    I received quite a few questions and comments on last month’s article, “Basic RV Electricity.” The questions and comments were very good and they addressed some RV electrical concerns I didn’t cover in the article. I thought that everyone could benefit from this information and decided to include it this month.

    Question: “What is a deep cycle battery?”

    Answer: RVs come equipped with deep cycle batteries for the coach. Most RVs come with a single Group 24 deep cycle battery. Deep cycle batteries are rated in amp/hours. How many amps the battery can deliver for how many hours before the battery is discharged. Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged over and over again and still take a charge. If you enjoy dry camping (without hook-ups) you depend on your deep cycle battery(s) to take care of your 12-volt needs. You can purchase a deep cycle battery with a higher amp/hour capacity that will last longer. The higher the amp/hour capacity is the larger the battery is. If you have room for a larger battery and enjoy dry camping you may want to consider a Group 27 or Group 31 deep cycle battery.

    Comment: “You did not cover inverters. I installed one in my motorhome because there are times when you want a little power for the TV or VCR and don’t want to crank the generator.”

    Reply: You are absolutely right. Inverters are nice to have at times when you are dry camping and/or when you don’t have access to 120-volts AC. Batteries produce power in Direct Current (DC) that run at low voltages. Power companies and AC generators produce sine wave Alternating Current (AC), which is used to operate 120-volt appliances and electronic equipment. An inverter takes 12-volt DC power from your RV batteries and electronically changes it to 120-volt AC. Some RVers use an inverter just to watch TV or for their personal computer. Other RVers use an inverter to operate microwaves, coffee pots or other larger appliances. When you purchase an inverter the inverter’s output capacity must be capable of operating the loads that will be placed on it.

    Inverters have two different capacity ratings. Continuous output rating and surge capacity rating. Continuous output is the maximum wattage the inverter can output for a long time period. Surge capacity is the maximum wattage the inverter can output during initial start up. All appliances require more power when they start, compared to what they use when they are running. They can use as much as two or three times the amount to start then what they use to run, so the starting power required for any appliance that you plan to use with the inverter must be within the surge capacity rating. There are modified sine wave inverters and true sine wave inverters. A true sine wave inverter is more expensive, but they are capable of producing power as good as the power company and all appliances and electronic equipment will run as they are intended to. Keep in mind you are drawing the power from your RV batteries and any power used has to be put back in through some type of effective charging system.

    Comment: This is a second comment from the same reader. “You need to tell your reader’s what to do when you only have 15 amps to plug in to, (usually at someone’s home and using the plug on their front porch) and you need the air conditioner.”

    Reply: I personally don’t recommend doing this, but I agree that it is possible, like you say to use the A/C if you are plugged in to a 15-amp outlet. If you do, you must exercise caution. When the A/C compressor engages it requires more amps (about 13) than it does once it is running. Because of this you need to turn all appliances off before starting the A/C, to include switching the refrigerator from A/C to LP gas. Once it is running it may be possible to use a small appliance or electronic equipment that operates on low amperage, like a TV, but you need to monitor the voltage to prevent damaging any appliances or electronic equipment.

    Comment: This is the third comment from the same reader. “You should also tell your reader’s that if they are using a long extension cord it must be #12 wire or lower, (heavier gauge) to keep the amount of voltage drop from causing problems.”

    Reply: You’re right again. If it is possible you should try to avoid using an extension cord when making electrical connections at the campground. The gauges of the wire used in standard household extension cords are not suitable for RV electrical hook-ups. Eventually you will be put in a situation where you will need to use an extension cord. It is a good idea to purchase an RV extension cord that is compatible to the electrical system of your RV, and have it on hand. If you do purchase an extension cord somewhere else I recommend 10-guage wire and use as short of a cord as possible.

    Question: “Will it hurt to leave the RV plugged in and the refrigerator on all of the time?”

    Answer: I leave my refrigerator on almost all of the time. The RV should be on level ground so the refrigerator operates properly and you will need to monitor it for when it needs to be defrosted. The only other concern with leaving the RV plugged in, not related to the refrigerator, is the coach battery. Whenever the RV is plugged in the coach battery is being charged. It's really just a trickle charge, but over time it can deplete the electrolyte levels in the battery cells. You need to check, or have somebody check the battery at least monthly when the RV is plugged in during storage.

    Question: “Is there any danger of damaging your system if you plug a 30-amp system into a 50-amp service using the proper adapter?”

    Answer: This is a controversial subject. Some people will argue that if they make an electrical adapter for it than it is safe. Others will argue that it is not safe to use a 50-amp service for a system designed for 30-amps or a 20-amp service for a 30-amp system. Electrical adapters are a necessity for RVers. Eventually you will be in a situation where you have to use some type of electrical adapter to make a connection at a campground. It may be an outdated campground or isolated area that only provides 15 or 20-amp electrical service, or the only site available is a 50-amp service for your 30-amp system. There are adapters that will go from your RV type plug and size down to household type outlets and adapters that go from household type outlets to all types of campground RV connections. It’s nice to have these adapters on hand when you need them, but you must exercise caution and use common sense when you use them. If you have a 30-amp system and you have to use a 50-amp service use your RV electrical system exactly the same way you do when you’re plugged into a 30-amp service. In other words don’t try to run anymore than you normally would. On the other hand if your RV is a 30-amp or 50-amp system and you use an adapter to plug the RV into a 15 or 20-amp outlet you severely limit what you can operate in the RV. In this situation you should only use what appliances or electronic equipment are absolutely necessary. If you place too much of a demand on electrical adapters, or use them for extended periods of time they can overheat and melt resulting in damage to the RV power cord or the electrical system.

    Question: “Sometimes the coach battery in our motorhome won’t start the generator and other times it will. My question is why isn’t the RV battery charger keeping my battery charged when I leave it plugged in all the time?”

    Answer: The battery charger in the RV converter provides a trickle charge and is only designed to keep the coach battery(s) topped off. It is not designed or capable of recharging a battery that is completely discharged or damaged. The automotive alternator also charges the coach battery when you are driving the RV. I would guess that the alternator is probably charging the battery enough to start the generator sometimes after driving for a while, but the RV battery charger can’t charge it enough to start the generator when it’s plugged in. The constant charging from leaving it plugged in all the time can deplete the electrolyte level in the battery(s) cells. Depending on how often the battery(s) is being charged will determine how often it needs to be checked. You should check the battery(s) at least monthly and if you use the RV on a regular basis and / or you leave it plugged in when you’re not using it you may need to check the battery(s) more often.

    I hope these reader’s questions and comments are helpful to you and quite possibly might answer some questions that you had about basic RV electricity.

    Happy RV Learning,

    Mark Polk
    RV Education 101
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    RV Electric 101 - Basic RV Electricity

    One of the most common questions and concerns I receive is about the RV electrical system. Most people ask if I can explain the RV electrical system in simple to understand terms. The electrical system in your RV can seem complex and confusing until you have a basic understanding of how it works. Your RV actually has three separate electrical systems. It has a 12-volt DC automotive system, a 12-volt DC coach system, and a 120 volt AC coach system. We are primarily concerned with the 12-volt DC and 120 volt AC coach systems.

    The majority of campgrounds you go to will provide you with an external 120 volt electric source to plug into. Your RV has a heavy-duty power cord that is normally about 25 feet long. Depending on the type of RV you have, or purchase, it will either be a 30 Amp or 50 Amp system. When you plug into the proper campground electrical source it will supply power throughout your RV. You must have a 120 Volt AC power source if you are going to use the microwave, roof air conditioner, the refrigerator in the electric mode and the 120 Volt electrical outlets. For the most part everything else in the camper works off of 12-volt DC power. When you are plugged in at the campground a portion of the 120 volt AC current is converted to 12-volt DC current for the items in the RV that work off of 12 volts. Some of these items are the overhead lights, the furnace fan, and the fan over the range, the vent fan in the bathroom, the water pump, LP gas leak detector, stereo, and the refrigerator when it’s in the LP gas mode. If you look at the RV’s power distribution panel you will see circuit breakers like you have in your house for the 120-volt AC side, and automotive style blade fuses for the 12-volt DC side.

    If you are not plugged into an external power source you can still use the 12-volt DC system if you have a 12-volt deep cycle marine battery on your unit. As long as the battery or batteries are charged you can use everything in the RV except the microwave, roof air conditioner, the refrigerator in the electric mode and the electrical outlets. If you have a motorhome, or you’re going to purchase a motorhome, it will have a battery for the automotive system and an auxiliary battery for the coach system. The coach battery is charged whenever the motorhome is running; the generator is running, or when it’s plugged into an external electrical source.

    Before we go any further I would like to offer a few basic battery maintenance tips to keep your RV batteries in top operating condition.

    First of all never work around batteries with an open flame. Vapors from the batteries can ignite, causing serious damage. To prevent the possibility of arcing turn off any 12 Volt power sources and disconnect the negative battery cable before working on or around the batteries. If you have a maintenance free battery you will not be able to perform some of these checks. The color of the eye on the battery will indicate the condition of a maintenance free battery. Consult your owner’s manual for more information on maintenance free batteries.

    Constant charging depletes electrolyte levels in batteries. Inspect electrolyte levels and add distilled water as required. Add water until it reaches the split-level marker in each cell. Do not overfill.
    Inspect all battery cable and terminal connections. Keep all connections clean and tight. Do not over tighten. When battery terminals are clean and tight on the battery post spray the terminals with a battery terminal protector to prevent corrosion.
    To clean the battery itself use a diluted baking soda and water solution. After cleaning the battery flush it thoroughly with water.

    Check the state of charge and keep batteries fully charged. Specific gravity readings for a charged battery should be between 1.215 & 1.250. If you remove the batteries for storage charge them to a full charge and check them periodically during storage. Re-charge as necessary. Follow proper charging instructions for the type of battery. Deep cycle batteries require a lower amp charge over a longer period of time.

    There are numerous electronic devices and equipment in your RV that can drain the coach battery when you’re not using the RV. Some examples are; the TV antenna booster, the LP gas leak detector, clocks in radios, or just leaving a 12-volt light on by accident. If your RV is not equipped with a battery disconnect switch you can purchase a battery disconnect, from an RV dealer, that can be installed directly on the battery post. When you aren’t using the RV or have no requirement for the coach battery you simply raise a lever and disconnect the battery. A battery disconnect can be installed on the chassis battery too.

    Lastly, if you are not comfortable performing the maintenance on your RV batteries have it done by a qualified service center.

    Motorhomes also provide an additional source of 120 volt AC power with an onboard power generator. This unique feature offers you the convenience of 120-volt AC power whenever you need it, making the unit fully self-contained. The fuel supply for the generator comes directly from the motor home fuel tank. The system is designed so that when the fuel tank gets to 1/4 tank full the generator will stop running so it doesn’t use all of the fuel in the motor home. Some motor homes have an automatic switch over from an external power supply to the generator. Other motor homes require you to plug the motor home power cord into a generator receptacle on the motor home to use the generator.

    I would also like to give you a few tips about RV electricity. To start with a 30 Amp system is the most common on RV’s. The plug on your RV is a large three-prong, heavy duty 30 Amp, 120-volt plug.

    Most campgrounds you go to will provide you with a 30 Amp outlet that your RV power cord will plug directly into. If you go to a campground that has a regular house type outlet there are adapters that you can use to go from your RV plug to the house type outlet. When you do this you are plugging into a 15 Amp or 20 Amp power source. This means you will be limited as to what appliances you can run in your RV. It is even possible to damage some appliances if they are not getting the required amperage to operate properly. Let’s say for example you plug into a 15 Amp outlet and you are using a small appliance that is drawing 5 Amps, that leaves you with 10 Amps. Now you turn the roof air conditioner on and when the air conditioner compressor engages it needs about 13 Amps, but it’s not available, and it damages the air conditioner compressor.

    Even with a 30 Amp service you need to be selective about what you are using. If you try to use too much the RV will let you know by tripping a breaker in the distribution box and hopefully no harm will be done. There is a short formula that may help you with this. 30 Amps X 120 Volts = 3600 watts. This is the total amount of power you can use before you overload the system. Think of it like this, with 3600 watts you could use 36 one hundred watt light bulbs. When you turn on the 37th light you will probably trip a breaker.

    It is also a good idea to take a voltmeter along with you that you can plug right into one of the outlets. Campground electricity varies depending on the demand placed on it. If everybody is running his or her air conditioner the voltage may drop below an acceptable level, and it would be wise to wait until it is restored back to normal. You can glance at the voltmeter every time you walk by it and save yourself untimely and costly repairs to your RV appliances. Voltage below 105 volts or above 135 volts can damage electronic equipment and appliances.

    Most appliances will tell you what the required wattage or amperage is to run the appliance. Here is the amperage draw for some common RV appliances and electronics.

    •Coffee maker - 8.3 amps

    •Converter - 8 amps

    •Hair dryer - 9 to 12 amps

    •Microwave - 13 amps

    •Refrigerator - 2.8 amps

    •Roof a/c 13.5 amps

    •TV - 1.5 amps

    •Toaster - 8 to 10 amps

    •VCR - 2 amps

    •Electric skillet- 6 to 12 amps

    Hopefully this will provide you with a better basic understanding of how your RV electrical system works.

    Happy RV Learning,

    Mark Polk
    RV Education 101
    RV University
    RV Orientation
    Go for the RV Gold
    Follow us on FACEBOOK
    RV Consumer
    RV Videos on Demand

    RV Owner Maintenance Mishaps

    There are lots of things to remember and to maintain on an RV. Sometimes we tend to overlook the simplest maintenance requirements on our RV. As the old saying goes, you can’t see the forest for the trees. These simple oversights can result in costly repair bills to correct the problem too. Let’s take a look at some common RV owner maintenance mishaps.


    1) Checking and adding air when the tires are hot. I see it all the time, people checking their tire pressure when the tires are hot. You should always check and inflate tires when the tires are cold, before traveling more than one mile. Hot air expands and will give you a false reading. If the tires are already hot wait several hours before checking and adjusting inflation pressure.

    2) Neglecting to periodically check the water level in batteries. 85% of lead acid batteries manufactured in the U.S. die before they should. One of the leading causes for battery failure is overcharging the battery. Overcharging a battery results in severe water loss and plate corrosion. This is a common problem with RV’s. The RV converter has a built in battery charger and most RV owners are under the impression that if you leave the RV plugged in when the RV is in storage it will keep the batteries topped off. While keeping batteries topped off is extremely important the problem is that many, but not all, RV converter chargers provide a constant charge of about 13.5 volts which is too high for fully charged batteries and the electrolyte is boiled off resulting in an early death for the batteries. There have been advances in converter charger technology and many of today’s converter chargers are 3 stage chargers that will prevent batteries from overcharging. Another problem is during times of high battery usage and recharging the electrolyte is boiled off. Periodically checking and adjusting the water level in the batteries can save and extend the life expectancy of the battery. When you add water use mineral free water. Distilled water is best and only fill the battery cell to 1/8 inch below the vent well.

    3) Not rinsing and flushing the black water holding tank after you empty it. The only way to get a long service-free life from the RV black water holding tank is to rinse and flush the tank after you empty it. Some RVs have a built in system for flushing the black water tank, but many don’t. If your RV doesn’t have a built in flushing system there are aftermarket products like tank cleaning wands and reverse flush valves that will assist in keeping your black water tank clean, clog-free and odor-free. Watch a short video on tank cleaning products. 

    4) Not performing pre-departure checks. I think nearly every RVer, at one time or another has learned this valuable lesson. Pre-departure checks or a final walk-around before leaving can save you costly repair bills. Common RV repairs relating to this are repairs to the steps, TV antenna, awnings and power cords. Take a minute to walk around the RV, and look on top and underneath before heading out.

    5) Not periodically inspecting your RV for water damage. Water leaks on an RV can cause extensive damage and can be extremely costly to repair. To protect your investment and your wallet you need to take the time to inspect the RV for water leaks. The outside of your RV may look fine but the internal damage caused by water over a period of time can result in the entire roof, floor or wall rotting away without you even knowing it, until it’s too late. To prevent a leak before it starts thoroughly inspect all roof and body seams, sealants and around any openings cut in the RV roof or sidewalls. Reseal any seams or sealants that show signs of cracking or separation. Consult your RV owner manual for inspection intervals and for the type of sealants compatible with different types of materials.

    6) Not performing routine safety checks. It’s not uncommon for RV’s to sit in storage for periods of time. If dry cell batteries aren’t removed from devices like smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors the devices won’t work when you need them. By simply getting in a habit of checking the smoke, CO, and LP gas leak detectors prior to each trip you can prevent this from happening. Follow the testing instructions in the owner’s manual or on the device itself. If you remove dry cell batteries during storage remember to re-install them next spring. You also need to get in a habit of inspecting the fire extinguisher before each trip. Look to see if the arrow is pointing in the green area in the sight gauge. If it reads empty or needs charging replace it or have it recharged immediately. If it’s a dry powder type fire extinguisher the arrow pointing in the green doesn’t always guarantee that it will work. Every month you should turn dry powder extinguishers upside down, tap on the bottom of the extinguisher and shake it so the powder that settled on the bottom is released. Make sure you know how to operate the fire extinguisher too. A simple pre-trip checklist can serve as a reminder to test all safety devices prior to leaving on a trip.

    7) Not maintaining the RV water system. The potable water system in your RV requires some maintenance to keep it trouble free. Something I’ve run into quite often is the complaint that there is a stale odor coming from the RV water system. When you return from a trip and you’re not going to use the RV for a while you need to drain the entire water system to prevent it from getting stale and musty. You should drain the water heater, low point water drains and the fresh water holding tank. Caution: Never drain the water heater tank when it is hot or under pressure. With the drains still open you can turn the water pump on for a moment to help force any remaining water out of the system. Do not let the pump continue to run once the water stops draining. Close all of the drains.

    If by accident you forget to drain the water system and you get that notorious stale odor all is not lost. You just need to sanitize the water system. Start by draining all of the old water out of the system, and then close all of the drains. Take a quarter cup of house hold bleach for every fifteen gallons of water that your fresh water tank holds. Mix the bleach into a one-gallon container and pour it into the fresh water holding tank. Fill the fresh water tank completely full of water. Turn the water pump on, open all hot and cold faucets and run the water until you smell the bleach at each faucet. Close the faucets and let it sit for about 12 hours. Drain the entire system and re-fill the fresh water tank with potable water. Open all of the faucets and run the water until you no longer smell any bleach. It may be necessary to repeat this process again to eliminate all signs of bleach from the water system. Once this is done it is safe to use your water system. It’s also a good idea to use a water filter at campgrounds and to keep bottled water on hand for drinking.

    If you don’t feel comfortable performing any of these steps you should take the RV to an authorized RV service center to have the maintenance performed.

    What are some of your RV owner maintenance mishaps?

    Happy RV Learning,

    Mark Polk
    RV Education 101
    RV University

    Tips to Increase Engine Life

    Today we’re going to talk about some easy ways to increase the life of your tow vehicle or motorhome’s engine. Actually there are many ways to to increase engine life in a vehicle, but I want to narrow the list to what I consider the most important. When all you hear every day is how poorly the economy is doing, it only makes sense to buckle down and take better care of what you already own.


    A little bit of preventive maintenance (PM) now can pay big dividends in the long run. What’s that old saying? An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! So, what can we do to extend the life of your tow vehicle, motorhome, or your automobile engine? Let’s take a look.

    ■Routine Oil and Oil Filter Changes
    This is number one on my list. I have known people who I think change their engine oil and filter more frequently than it is needed, but it is usually the other way around. You should follow the vehicle manufacturer’s guidelines for changing the engine oil and filter. If at all possible try to change the oil and oil filter prior to any long-term storage. Acids accumulate in used oil and can corrode the engine bearings. Don’t forget the generator oil and filter, too.

    ■Help your Engine Breathe
    A dirty or clogged air filter can rob life from your engine. When the engine can breathe properly it not only lasts longer but is more fuel efficient. Recommendations for checking and replacing air filters are normally based on driving conditions. It only takes a couple of minutes to check the air filter. I check mine when I change the engine oil, and the filter gets replaced if it’s dirty.

    ■Pay Attention to Service Intervals
    The manufacturer recommends service intervals for a reason. You guessed it, to maximize efficiency and extend the life of the engine. Whether it’s a diesel or gasoline engine it’s important that you pay attention to, and follow these recommended service intervals. If you don’t perform your own routine maintenance, find a local dealership or repair shop you can trust and put the vehicle on a routine service schedule.

    ■Keep it Running Cool:
    Just as clean engine oil lubricates moving parts and extends the engine’s life, clean engine antifreeze helps the major components of the engine stay cool and extends the engine’s life. Follow the engine manufacturer’s guidelines for flushing and replacing the coolant (make sure to use the proper type of coolant for the engine). Every time you lift the hood, check the coolant level and inspect coolant hoses for damage. Coolant hoses deteriorate from the inside out. Inspect all hoses for wear, cracks, soft spots, brittle areas and leaks. Replace any damaged hoses or clamps as required.

    ■Perform Pre-Trip Checks:
    Before moving the tow vehicle or RV, make the following checks concerning the engine. Check all fluid levels in the power steering resevoir, engine coolant, engine oil, windshield washer and brake fluid. Check the transmission fluid while you are at it. Consult your vehicle owner’s manual for proper procedures to check and add fluids. Start the engine, allow it to reach operating temperature and check for proper readings on all gauges. Look under the vehicle for signs of leaks. Have any leaks checked out and repaired before using the vehicle.

    ■Driving is Important, Too:
    Smart drivers can extend the life of their vehicle engine. Watching RPMs, knowing when to shift gears and monitoring gauges all contribute to extending the life of your engine. Always warm an engine up before driving. Don’t race a cold engine; accelerate slowly until the engine is up to operating temperature. Avoid quick starts and fast stops whenever possible. Always monitor your gauges. If a gauge is reading outside of the normal operating range, pull over when it is safe and have it checked/repaired.

    ■Proper Storage Procedures:
    Proper storage procedures can extend the life of your engine, whereas improper procedures can harm the life of your engine. I already mentioned that changing the oil and oil filter prior to long-term storage (say three or more months) can help your engine. Acids accumulate in used oil and can corrode the engine bearings. Start the engine periodically when the motorhome is in storage and run it until it reaches operating temperature. Fill the fuel tank and add a fuel preservative to the tank. Run the engine and generator long enough to get the preservative through the fuel system. Protect the engine compartment from critters. Squirrels and mice love to chew on plastic, rubber and anything else they can find, and a vehicle engine compartment makes a safe and cozy winter home. If the motorhome is stored outside I recommend starting the engine more often to deter these critters from calling it home.

    If the RV has a generator exercise it on a regular basis. When you run the generator make sure there is at least a ½-rated load on it. Check your generator owner’s manual for instructions on exercising it.
    I mentioned earlier that there are many other factors that can extend the life of your engine, but I think these are some of the most important. If any one of these items is not properly maintained it could end up costing you thousands of dollars in repairs. Maintaining your vehicles engine is not that difficult to do, and in times of uncertainty it is what I would call cheap insurance.

    Happy Camping.

    Mark Polk

    RV Education 101

    RV University
    RV Orientation
    Go for the RV Gold

    Some Interesting RV Poll Results

    The outcome of any poll depends on several factors like; what type of poll it is, how the questions are worded, who is asking the questions and of course who does and does not participate in the poll.


    Each week we conduct an RV poll in our e-newsletter. The RV poll is not a scientific poll, a political poll or a marketing poll. It is basically used to give me some idea of what our newsletter readers are interested in, how they use their RVs and just for the fun of it. I thought it would be interesting to look back at some of our past RV polls and see how the participants responded.


    Here's what I found out.

    • 85% travel with the refrigerator on and 15% travel with it off
    • 53% prefer diesel and 47% prefer gas
    • 79% eat more meals in the RV and 21% eat more meals out
      89% conduct a spring check-up on their RV before using it and 11% don't
    • 67% said the recession won't change plans to use the RV and 33% said it will
    • 72% said their average RV trips are one week or less and 28% said their average RV trips are two weeks or longer
    • 54% own motorized RV's and 46% own towable RV's
    • 91% plan two or more summer RV trips and 9% plan only one
      63% store the RV on their own property and 37% make other storage arrangements
    • 82% check the tire pressure before each trip and 18% don't
    • 24% said a hybrid RV chassis would affect their buying decision and 76% said it wouldn't have any affect
    • 90% said they use environmentally friendly holding tank chemicals and 10% don't
    • 63% use their RV in the winter and 37% don't
    • 51% RV green and 49% don't
    • 100% have taken advantage of free overnight parking at one time or another
    • 70% have stayed in a friends or relatives driveway before and 30% have not
    • 77% were against the new Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) regulations and 23% were not
    • 86% are not fulltime RVers and 14% are
    • 83% use a GPS in their RV and 17% don't. Of those, 62% were led down the wrong path one time or another, but 93% would still recommend a GPS to other RV owners
    • 81% were prepared for the digital TV switchover in their RV and 19% were not
    • 19% frequently stay at state or federal campgrounds, 34% stay at private campgrounds, 5% stay at public campgrounds and 42% stay at a combination of all three
    • 49% have experienced at least one tire blowout with their RV and 51% have not
    • 81% have stayed in their RV during severe weather and 19% have not
    • 70% have experienced rude behavior from other campers and 30% have not
    • 67% use a pre-departure checklist when they RV and 33% don't
    • 98% have one or more slide outs on their RV and 2% don't have any slide outs
    • 60% shower in the RV more than the campground bath house and 40% shower in the bath house more than the RV
    • 88% winterize their own RV and 12% have it winterized by an RV dealer
    • 34% take bottled water with them, 14% use filtered water and 52% use both bottled & filtered water in their RV
    • 92% take pets with them on RV trips and 8% don't
    • 59% wash their RV as needed, 30% wash it after each trip, 7% wash it before storing and 4% never wash it
    • 71% pack as much food as possible before leaving and 29% buy groceries when they arrive at their destination
    • 30% pre-cook meals before leaving and 70% don't
    • 30% traveled by RV last Thanksgiving, 36% traveled by car, 1% by plane and 33% stayed home
    • 36% have weighed their RV and 64% have not
    • 33% have used their RV as a guesthouse and 67% have not
    • 84% have cleaned their RV roof at some point and 16% have never cleaned their RV roof
    • 78% perform routine maintenance on their RV and 22% take it to a dealer for maintenance
    • 72% have dry camped with their RV and 28% have not
    • 81% have camped in a national or state park and 19% have not
    • 31% have had problems with rodents in their RV and 69% have not
    To read more RV poll results visit these links:


    More Interesting RV Poll Results
    RV Poll Results (3rd Installment)
    RV Poll Results (4th Installment)


    Happy RV Learning,

    Mark Polk
    RV Education 101
    RV University
    RV Orientation
    Go for the RV Gold
    Follow us on FACEBOOK
    RV Consumer

    Preventive Maintenance Checks for an RV Generator

    Preventive Maintenance (PM) is maintenance the owner can perform on your RV before a problem exists. These checks are designed to prevent or identify potential problems that could lead to mechanical breakdown, malfunction or failure of a component or system on your RV. Preventive Maintenance consists of cleaning, inspecting, lubricating, adjusting and servicing your RV.
    Here are some PM checks you can perform on a typical RV generator. In addition to these checks you should always follow the maintenance schedule and guidelines that came with your specific generator set.
    Note: These PM checks are for a gasoline fueled generator. There are diesel propane fueled generators too. Some of these checks apply to all types, but some don’t. Consult your generator owner’s manual for maintenance checks and services for your specific generator.

    1) Always check the oil level and the exhaust system prior to starting the generator. Starting and running a generator that is low on oil can result in costly damage to the generator’s engine. Add oil as required. Check your owner manual for the type of oil to use. A damaged exhaust system can result in carbon monoxide gas getting inside the RV. Always inspect the entire generator exhaust system prior to starting the generator. Never operate a generator with a damaged exhaust system!

    2)Keep the generator set and the compartment it is housed in clean. You can use compressed air to assist in cleaning out the generator compartment and a clean shop rag to clean the generator set. While you are cleaning the generator check all electrical connectors for secure connections.
    Note: always wear safety glasses when using compressed air.

    3)Check all of the filters on the generator. A typical generator may have an air filter, fuel filter and oil filter. Check your generator owner manual for the types of filters your generator has and where they are located. Maintenance checks and services for a generator are based on hours of operation. You need to monitor the hour meter on your generator set for all maintenance intervals.

    a)Check the air filter for cleanliness. You can remove it and inspect the fins on the back for signs of dirt or debris. You can tap the air filter on a flat surface to help remove some of the dirt and debris. Change a dirty filter, or change it at prescribed intervals. Inspect the air filter more often in dusty conditions.

    b)The fuel filter will typically be an in-line type filter. Over time it filters out and collects enough debris that it can interfere with the flow of fuel. Check and replace the fuel filter at prescribed intervals.

    c)We’ll talk about the oil filter in just a minute.

    4)Change the oil and oil filter (if equipped). This is perhaps the most important PM Service you can perform on your generator to ensure years of reliable service. Change the oil and replace the oil filter at the recommended intervals. It’s really quite simple to do. Your generator owner’s manual will usually describe the steps to follow. If you don’t feel comfortable changing the oil and filter have an authorized RV service center do it for you.

    5)Replace the spark plugs at recommended intervals. If you ever replaced the spark plugs in a vehicle you can replace the plugs in the generator, unless due to the constraints of the generator compartment you can’t access the spark plugs. In this case you may want to let an authorized RV service center do it for you. If you decide to do it yourself check your generator owner manual for the correct type of plug to use and double check the spark plug gap before installing the plugs. Do not over tighten spark plugs!

    6)Exercise the generator. There are several reasons why you should start and exercise the generator on a regular basis. Moisture build up can cause damage to your generator. When you exercise your generator it heats up the generator windings and eliminates this moisture build up. This monthly exercise regime also lubricates all of the engine seals and components and helps to prevent carbon build up. So, what exactly do I mean when I say exercise your generator? For a gasoline generator I mean that you start and run the generator with at least a 50 % load, for at least two hours every month. It is extremely important that you run it with this minimum rated load. Generators are designed to run with a load placed on them. It’s always better to let your generator run for longer time periods than it is for short time periods. Check your generator owner’s manual for load ratings specific to your unit. Always try to avoid starting or stopping a generator when there is a 120 volt device or appliance turned on.

    7)Add a fuel stabilizer during periods of storage or non-use. If it’s a motorhome add a fuel stabilizer to the motorhomes gas tank and run the generator long enough for the stabilizer to get through the fuel system. This will help prevent gas related problems on carbureted generators, like not starting or surging. These are problems you don’t need. Fuel stabilizers can protect the fuel system for up to six months, but keep in mind the importance to exercise the generator when possible.

    Well there you have it. Follow these simple steps, and the maintenance and service instructions in the generator owner’s manual, and you can get years of reliable service from your generator set.

    A couple of additional tips for generator maintenance are to keep the battery that is used to start the generator maintained, and when running the generator monitor the AC voltage and frequency output with some type of digital plug in meter. I recommend one that can test campground polarity, measure AC line voltage and AC frequency. Frequency is the number of times that electricity alternates per second. U.S. appliances are designed to operate at 60 cycles per second, or 60 hertz.

    When you use your generator the governor in the generator must hold the speed constant at, or close to 60 hertz from no load on the generator to a full load. Depending on the load placed on the generator, AC voltage can range from 105 to 135 volts and the frequency can range from 58 to 63 hertz. Anything outside of these parameters can cause problems for your RV electrical system and/or generator set. The meter will let you know when the generator is not operating within the proper ranges and you can have it checked out and repaired before any damage occurs.

    Happy Camping,
    Mark J. Polk

    RV Education 101

    RV University

    copyright 2009 by Mark Polk owner of RV Education 101

    Extend the Life of your RV Awnings

    Awnings are a great feature to have on your RV. There are several different types of RV awnings and they serve different purposes. There are window and door awnings that provide shade and keep rain away from your RV windows or entry door. There are slide-out awnings that help protect the top of the slide-out from debris and water. And there are patio awnings. Patio awnings extend the living area of our outdoor world. Similar to the front porch of your home, the patio awning provides us with shade and cover from a light rain when we want to sit and enjoy the great outdoors. The awnings on your RV will provide years of reliable trouble free operation, if you take the time to do a little preventive maintenance and cleaning.

    Perhaps the most important component of an awning is the fabric. Fabric used on RV awnings is one of two types, acrylic or vinyl. Acrylic fabric is a woven cloth that lets air circulate through the fabric. This air circulation allows the fabric to dry quickly when it gets wet. Acrylic fabrics are water repellent, but not waterproof. If you have experience tent camping you know that you shouldn’t touch the underside of the tent when it’s wet. Touching the wet fabric allows water to seep through the fabric. The same applies to an acrylic awning fabric. Vinyl awning fabric is mildew resistant, but not necessarily mildew proof. Mildew can form on the dirt and dust that collects on the vinyl fabric. It will be worse in high temperatures, humidity and if the fabric is stored when it is wet.

    Some awnings have an aluminum or vinyl wrap-around weather guard that protects the awning fabric when it’s in the travel or stored position. When you open the awning for the first time each year, or if it has been stored for a while, you will need to inspect the awning fabric for any signs of mildew or stains. Remember vinyl awnings will mildew. To prevent dirt from imbedding into the woven fabric of an acrylic awning fabric you should simply hose the fabric off on a routine basis. Avoid scrubbing acrylic awning fabric. Scrubbing can remove the water retardant finish. For stubborn stains blot the approved cleaner on the acrylic fabric with a sponge or soft cloth.

    For more difficult stains or mildew on a vinyl awning fabric there are after market commercial cleaners made just for awning fabrics. One method that seems to work well is to spray the inside and outside of the awning fabric with the appropriate cleaner, then roll it up and let it sit for several minutes. This distributes the cleaner over the entire surface of the awning fabric and allows the cleaner time to work. Open the awning and thoroughly rinse both sides of the fabric. It may be necessary to scrub stubborn stains with a brush on a vinyl awning fabric before rinsing. You can clean the awning hardware with the same cleaner you use to wash the RV.

    Note: Never use oil based or abrasive cleaners on awning fabrics. Clean and thoroughly rinse both sides of the awning fabric. Carefully follow all awning and cleaner manufacturer directions.

    Inspecting the Awning
    Inspect the awning fabric for any tears or excessive wear. Talk to your RV dealer about what materials to use to repair or patch the awning fabric.

    Do not store the awning when the fabric is wet. Allow enough time for it to dry completely, on both sides, before storing the awning.
    While the awning is out, inspect the awning hardware. The bottom awning brackets support most of the load from the awning. Check the lag screws in the awning brackets for secure mounting. Inspect the arm pivot holes for any enlarged holes or broken rivets in the handles.
    Check for a warped roller tube. If the roller tube is warped it will be noticeable when you roll the awning out.
    Inspect the awning end caps for secure mounting and broken rivets. Caution: Never attempt to remove the awning end caps. Spring tension can result in serious injury.
    Make sure the awning rail is securely mounted to the side of the RV.
    Note: Have any damaged or broken parts repaired before using the awning.

    In addition to cleaning and inspecting your awning there are a few things to keep in mind when using the awning.

    Always lower one end of the awning to allow for water runoff. The weight from water pooling on the awning fabric can cause extensive and costly damage.
    Any wind gusts over 20 miles per hour can also cause extensive damage to the awning and to the RV. Never leave the awning out unattended. If everyone is leaving the campsite, store the awning in the travel position. When you go to bed, store the awning. Even when you are at the campsite, you should use awning tie downs to prevent any sudden damage caused by high wind gusts or a sudden storm.
    You have the option to position the awning arms straight down and stake them to the ground, but you will get better support if they’re attached to the bottom awning brackets on the side of the RV. Remember, it is much easier to prevent damage to your awning than it is to repair it.

    Awning Tip: Check with your RV insurance provider to make sure your RV awning is covered in the event of any damage. Some insurance companies require separate insurance coverage on the RV awnings.

    For more in-depth information on RV awnings check out our RV Awning Use, Care & Accessories DVD
    View a video clip on how to install a window awning in six easy steps

    Well that about does it. With the proper care and a little preventive maintenance you and your RV awnings will have it made in the shade.

    Happy Camping,

    Mark J. Polk

    RV Education 101

    RV University

    copyright 2009 by Mark Polk owner of RV Education 101

    RV 101® - RV Winterizing 101 (Part 2)

    RV 101® - Winterizing Your RV Part 1 click HERE.
    We enjoy using our RV as much as possible throughout the year. But when you can’t use your RV, for whatever reasons and temperatures are approaching freezing, it’s important that you protect it. Last week I talked about preparing your RV’s interior, exterior and chassis for storage during the colder winter months. I mentioned at the beginning of the article that the RV plumbing system is the most vulnerable to damage caused by plummeting temperatures. The good news is it is really quite easy to protect the RV water system from this potential threat. I am including a checklist from my “Checklists for RVers” eBook to help walk you through the winterizing process.


    Before you get started there are a few items you will need to have. These items can be found in most RV parts stores:

    ■ Non-toxic RV/Marine antifreeze. The amount depends on the layout and length of your plumbing lines. Two to three gallons will normally do.
    ■A water heater by-pass kit, if not already installed.
    ■ A tank wand to clean out the holding tanks, if you don’t have a built-in flushing system.
    ■A water pump converter kit, or tubing to connect to the inlet side of the water pump.
    ■ Basic hand tools to remove drain plugs.
    Note: Be sure to read your owner’s manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines. Follow the steps below that apply to your RV.

    ■If you have any inline water filters remove and/or bypass before starting.
    ■Drain the fresh water holding tank.
    ■Empty and flush the gray and black water holding tanks if it hasn’t already been done. If the RV doesn’t have a built-in flushing system clean the black tank out with a tank cleaning wand.
    ■Drain the water heater. Open the pressure relief valve and remove the drain plug.
    Caution: Never drain the water heater when hot or under pressure. With no water hooked up to the RV and the water pump off, open a hot water faucet to remove any pressure on the system. Allow sufficient time for the tank to cool before draining.

    ■ Open all hot and cold faucets; don’t forget the toilet valve (pedal or lever) and the outside shower (if equipped).
    ■Locate and open the low point water drain lines.
    ■Use the water pump to help force most of the remaining water out of the system, but turn it off as soon as the system is drained to prevent damaging the pump.
    Note: It is not necessary to get every drop of water out of the water system, but you want to get most of it out. The non-toxic RV antifreeze will prevent the small amount of remaining water from freezing.

    ■Recap all drains and close all faucets.
    ■ By-pass the water heater. If you do not have a by-pass kit installed the water heater will fill up with RV antifreeze before it goes through the water lines, wasting six or ten gallons of antifreeze.
    Note: A water heater by-pass kit can save you money in two ways. It saves you from using an extra six or ten gallons of non-toxic RV antifreeze when it’s time to winterize your RV, and a bypass kit also prevents costly damage like ruptured water lines or a ruptured water heater tank. If water is left in the lines or tank they can freeze and expand, splitting the lines or tank. With a bypass kit you simply drain the water heater, put it in the by-pass mode and the antifreeze bypasses the tank and goes directly into the water lines.

    ■Install a water pump converter kit, or disconnect the inlet side of the water pump (the line coming from the fresh water holding tank to the pump) and connect tubing from the water pump inlet into a one gallon jug of RV antifreeze.
    ■ Turn the water pump on and pressurize the system. Starting with the closest faucet to the pump, slowly open the hot and then cold valves until the colored RV antifreeze appears. Replace the antifreeze container as required.
    ■Repeat this procedure on all faucets from the closest to the farthest away. Don’t forget the outside shower (if equipped).
    ■ Flush the toilet until antifreeze appears.
    ■Pour a cupful of antifreeze down every drain (all sinks, shower & tub drains).
    ■Pour some RV antifreeze in the toilet and flush into the holding tank to prevent any water in the tank from freezing.
    ■If your water heater has an electric heating element, turn it off. This will protect the element if the unit is plugged in (and the switch is on) while in storage.
    ■Make sure all faucets are closed.
    ■The unit is winterized.
    Note: Consult your owner manuals for unit specific winterizing instructions for icemakers and washing machines.

    Now, next spring when it’s time to head out in the RV you won’t have any unpleasant, not to mention costly, surprises waiting for.

    For more great winterizing & storing information check out my Winterizing & Storing your RV E-book & my Winterizing & Storing your RV video 


    Happy Camping,

    Mark J. Polk

    RV Education 101


    RV University
    copyright 2009 by Mark Polk owner of RV Education 101

    RV 101® - RV Winterizing 101 (Part 1)

    It’s always sad to come to the realization that another camping season is winding down. Part of this realization is preparing the RV for winter storage, so it will be ready to go camping again next spring. My guess is that most RV owners, especially those in cold climate regions, refer to this winter storage preparation as winterizing your RV. When you hear the term “winterizing” the first thought that comes to mind is to protect the RV water system from potential damage caused by exposure to freezing temperatures. Frozen and damaged water lines are in fact the most common problem related to not winterizing your RV, or not properly winterizing your RV; but there is more to winterizing your RV than just protecting the water system from freezing.


    The English dictionary definition for “winterize” is to prepare something, especially a house or an automobile, to withstand cold winter conditions. What I find interesting about this definition is that your RV is essentially a house and automobile combined. With that said, winterizing your RV would entail more than just preparing the water system for cold winter conditions. We would need to be concerned with preparing the RV’s interior, exterior, chassis, and plumbing from the harsh winter months.

    Today I will discuss some tips for preparing the RV interior, exterior and the chassis for cold winter storage, and next week I will discuss preparing the plumbing system for the cold winter storage.

    RV Interior

    When RVs are stored for the winter it’s not uncommon for mice and squirrels to make their winter home in the RV. These animals are notorious for chewing through vehicle wiring, plastic and rubber components, resulting in extensive damage to the RV. If it’s a motorized RV start the engine periodically to keep any chewing squirrels out of the engine compartment area.

    Possibly, the most important step is to try and prevent mice and other rodents from being able to access your RV. This can be difficult because they can enter the RV through some very small openings. Start by inspecting the underside of your RV for any gaps or holes. Fill these gaps using silicone or expanding foam. A word of caution, if you never used expanding foam before, you should experiment with it on something other than your RV first. When it dries it can expand a great deal more than you expect. Next, open drawers and cabinet doors inside your RV. Look in all of the corners and crevices, especially where plumbing and wiring enter the RV. If you can see any daylight mice can get in. Fill these areas with silicone or foam.

    Remove all food from the RV when it’s being stored and thoroughly clean the RV to remove any remnants of food that might attract mice and other rodents. Some people say mothballs help deter mice from making their home in your RV, and others say an alternative to mothballs is dryer sheets, like Bounce. I have talked to people who swear they work and the smell is much more pleasant. If you are close to where your RV is being stored you may want to use conventional mouse traps and check for mice every week or so.

    Next you should defrost the freezer compartment and clean the refrigerator. Leave the doors open and place baking soda in the compartments to absorb any odors. If the RV is in long-term storage, and won’t be plugged in to electricity, it’s a good idea to turn off the main breaker in the distribution panel. Turn the LP gas supply valve off at the cylinder(s) or tank. Close the window blinds to avoid sun exposure to the carpet, drapes and upholstery. Leave doors drawers and cabinets open. Clean the A/C filter(s). If you have vent covers installed on the overhead vents, that prevent rain from getting inside, leave them cracked open to allow for some ventilation. Remove any dry cell batteries from devices like smoke alarms, clocks etc.

    RV Exterior

    When you store your RV outside for extended periods the exterior begins to show signs of wear, caused by the constant exposure to the elements. Ozone in the air and ultraviolet, (UV) rays from the sun start to take their toll. Ozone causes the paint to fade and makes products like rubber and vinyl dry out, crack, and start to deteriorate. The UV rays from the sun make this aging process happen quicker. Before you store your RV you need to give the exterior a thorough cleaning. Whenever I’m washing or cleaning anything, whether it’s an automobile or the RV, I start from the top and work my way down. It’s a good idea to clean the RV roof before putting the RV in storage too. The type of roof your RV has will determine the cleaner you will need to use. Wash the exterior and if you’re really motivated wax it, using a quality wax formulated for the type of exterior surface your RV has. A good coat of wax protects your RV finish the same as it does an automobile. When you are cleaning the RV exterior inspect all roof seams, body seams and window sealant for any cracks and openings that would allow water to get in. Consult your RV dealer for sealants compatible with these materials and re-seal as required.

    Don’t forget to clean the awning fabric, and let it dry completely before storing it. If you have a pop-up or hybrid trailer make sure all of the tenting material is clean and dry before storage.

    Ideally you should try to store your RV under a covered area and on a solid surface like concrete. If this isn’t possible avoid parking under trees and in tall grass, fields or wooded areas. If the RV won’t be parked under some type of covered shelter you may want to invest in a cover. Covering your RV can be a logical and cost effective way to help protect your investment. If you decide to use a cover make sure it is made of a breathable material.

    Service all locks with a spray lubricant and lubricate all hinges. Insects are attracted to the odorant added to LP gas. You may want to cover LP gas appliance vents to prevent insects from making their winter home inside these vents. If you do cover the vents, remember to remove the cover next spring.

    RV Chassis

    Just like the exterior of the RV, the tires on your RV can be damaged by the harmful UV rays from the sun. Inflate the tires to the manufacturer’s recommended pressure and cover the tires with covers that will block out the sunlight. Place something like a piece of wood between the ground and the tires. Frozen ground and petroleum based surfaces, like asphalt, can damage tires over time. Make sure that whatever you use to block the tires is larger than the footprint of the tire. No portion of the tire should hang over the edge of the tire block; this can cause internal damage to the tire. For trailers, chock the wheels front and rear. If you are storing a pop-up outdoors angle the tongue downward to assist in snow and water run-off.

    Battery maintenance is an important part of winter storage preparation. If you plan to start the unit while in storage, and to periodically plug the unit into shore power leave the batteries in the unit. Plugging it into shore power once a month for about eight hours will help keep the coach batteries topped off. At a minimum you should check and adjust the water levels in all batteries and make sure the batteries are fully charged. A discharged battery will freeze much quicker than a fully charged battery. If the RV is in long-term storage it’s better to remove the batteries and store them where they will not freeze. In either case keep the batteries fully charged when they are in storage.

    Note: If your converter charger doesn’t have a three stage charging system (or storage maintenance mode) don’t leave the unit plugged in constantly. This could overcharge the batteries and deplete the electrolyte levels.

    If it’s a motorized RV you should fill the fuel tank prior to storage and add a fuel stabilizer. Run the engine and the generator long enough for the stabilizer to get through the entire fuel system. Change the oil and oil filter on the engine and the generator prior to storage. Acids accumulate in used oil and can corrode engine bearings, especially while sitting for long periods of time. If possible exercise the generator for at least two hours every month with a minimum of a ½ rated load on it. Consult your generator owner’s manual for load ratings.

    Winterizing Part 2: How to prepare the RV plumbing system for the cold winter months.

    If you would like to learn more about winterizing & storing your RV check out our Winterizing & Storing your RV ebook
    and Winterizing and Storing Your RV video
    Happy Camping,


    Mark J. Polk

    RV Education 101

    RV University

    Copyright 2009 by Mark Polk, owner of RV Education 101

    RV Education 101 Quick Tips

    Towing
    Whenever you are determining the tow capacity of a vehicle make sure you know what the rear axle ratio is. It is quite possible to have the same type and size of vehicle with the same engine and the tow ratings vary by several thousand pounds. The axle ratio is a comparison of how many times the drive shaft rotates, versus the rear wheels. A 4.10:1 axle ratio means the drive shaft or pinion gear rotates 4.1 times for each rotation of the rear axle or ring gear. The higher the numeric value the better the vehicle will tow. Some people have a misperception that a vehicle with 4-WD will have a higher tow rating than an identical vehicle that is two-wheel drive. In reality the 2-WD vehicle will have the higher tow rating. The reason for this is the transfer case in the four-wheel drive vehicle adds additional weight to the vehicle, usually close to 500 pounds, which lowers the tow rating by that same amount. Keep in mind that any weight you add to the tow vehicle takes that same amount of weight away from the vehicles tow rating and Gross Combined Weight Rating.



    Deep Cycle Battery
    RVs come equipped with deep cycle batteries for the coach's 12-volt DC electrical system. House or coach batteries need to be true deep cycle batteries that are designed to provide a steady amount of current over a long period of time. Starting batteries and marine batteries should not be used in this application. True deep cycle batteries have much thicker plates and are designed to be deeply discharged and recharged over and over again. Many RVs use a single deep cycle battery. Deep cycle batteries are rated in amp hours. How many amps the battery can deliver for how many hours before the battery is discharged. If you enjoy dry camping, without utility hook-ups, you depend on your deep cycle battery(s) to take care of your 12-volt needs. You can purchase a deep cycle battery with a higher amp hour capacity that will last longer. The higher the amp hour capacity is the larger and heavier the battery is. If you have room for a larger battery and enjoy dry camping you may want to upgrade your deep cycle battery to one with a higher amp hour rating. If your RV is equipped with a marine RV battery you may want to upgrade to a true deep cycle battery.



    Water Pressure Regulator
    Water pressure at campgrounds can be extremely high and can cause damage to your RV plumbing system. Always use a water pressure regulator when you hook-up to the campground water supply. Always connect the water pressure regulator directly to the campground water source. This way you regulate the water pressure where the water pressure originates. It's also a good idea to turn the water supply off if you're going to be away from the campground for extended periods of time.



    Water Filters
    You never know the condition or quality of potable water at different campgrounds. Always use a water filtration system to filter the drinking water in your RV, or take bottled water with you for drinking water.



    Pet Safety
    Take updated photos of your pets with you on camping trips. If they should get lost you can use the pictures to assist in finding them.



    Safe Drinking Hose
    Always use a non-toxic, white RV drinking hose for your potable water connection at the campground. Take a black or green garden hose along for all other purposes such as cleaning the RV or flushing out holding tanks. You will always be able to distinguish the difference by the color of the hose.



    Pre-Trip Checks
    Before leaving on a trip always check the license plate and inspection/emission sticker on the RV to make sure they are current or won't expire while you are away. Always make sure your RV insurance is current.



    Simple Test for Water Leaks
    A quick and easy way to test your RV plumbing system for leaks is to turn the 12-volt water pump on when there is water in the fresh water holding tank. Once it pressurizes the system and shuts off it should not come back on until you open a water faucet. If the pump does come on sporadically, even for short periods of time, water is leaking somewhere.



    Trip Routing
    Print a detailed map and routes of your entire trip from an Internet trip planning service. It is a free service and it is a great help in tracking distance, routes, and exits that you need to be watching for especially in congested areas. A GPS system helps too.



    Proper Tire Inflation
    Always check and add air to the tires when they are cold, before traveling. When tires get hot the air expands and you get a higher-pressure reading. If you let some air out they will be under inflated when they are cold.



    Awning Protection
    Awning tie downs help to protect your patio awning, but you should never leave your awning out during bad weather, or when you're not physically at the campsite. Wind and rain can damage your RV awning very quickly and it can be expensive to repair.



    Wiper Blade Maintenance
    Check the condition of your windshield wiper blades before you leave on a trip. This is one of those things we don't think about until the next time we need them. Periodically clean the wiper blades with windshield washer fluid.



    Happy Camping!



    Mark J. Polk




    Copyright 2008 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101


    RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books.

    Are You Braking the Law?

    A topic that is sometimes overlooked, and seldom talked about is supplemental braking systems. It’s not about what supplemental braking system you have, it’s the fact that you have one!

    One requirement for towing a trailer is that the trailer must have a braking system that works in conjunction with the tow vehicle brakes. Why should this requirement be any different for a motorhome towing a vehicle? In reality its not, but most people just assume you don’t need a supplemental braking system for the vehicle you’re towing. Some reasons for this assumption are:

    1) Because of the size of the motorhome there is no need for a supplemental brake system on the tow vehicle.
    2) People assume the vehicle they are towing is much lighter than it really is.
    3) Braking laws are not always enforced by individual U.S. states and Canadian provinces.
    4) Nobody took the time to educate the RV consumer on the requirement for a supplemental braking system.

    Regardless of the type or model you choose, being able to stop completely, in less time and a shorter distance, will give you an added sense of safety whenever you’re towing a vehicle. And it’s the law in most cases. Most importantly, a supplemental braking system SAFELY reduces the stopping distance and helps to protect you, your loved ones and the safety of others.

    Read Mark's in-depth article on supplemental braking systems:
    http://www.rvuniversity.com/article.php/20070510084958709

    Copyright 2007 by Mark J. Polk, owner of RV Education 101

    May 2007 RV Questions & Answers by Mark Polk

    RV Education 101 is Sponsored by National Interstate Insurance Company

    *NOTE: At Mark's discretion, material might be edited to suit a wide audience. Due to the large volume of material and correspondence we receive, individual replies might not be possible, nor can we acknowledge receipt of submitted material. Selected questions will be answered in future issues of our RV Education 101 newsletter and on our site. Thank-you for your understanding.

    Q: We have a Pop Up and my husband and I can never seem to back it in to the camp sight where we want it to go. Do you have any advice or ideas?

    Mark says: I have a method that has always worked well for me with two people working together. First decide who will drive and who will give directions. Let’s say your husband is driving. For this to work you are his eyes and he needs to do exactly what you tell him. When you are ready to back it in, you stand in front of the vehicle where you can see the trailer and communicate with your husband. He puts his hand on the top of the steering wheel and slowly turns the wheel in the direction you tell him. If you want the back of the trailer to go to your right you tell him to turn the steering wheel to the right. If you want it to go to the left tell him to slowly turn the wheel to the left. Don’t get upset if you need to pull forward and start over. With a little practice you’ll be backing like the pros. There is an excellent video available that not only demonstrates methods for backing a Pop Up, but it covers everything you need to know about using Pop Ups too. http://rveducation101.com/detailedinformation.asp?ID=1454

    Q: After we decided to buy a travel trailer the dealer told us we would need to spend another $1,000 dollars on hitch work. Isn’t this a little unreasonable?

    Mark says: The dealer should have explained the importance of proper hitch work during the sale. It is for your own safety and the safety of your loved one’s. If your particular purchase requires a weight-distributing hitch, dual cam sway control, electric brake control and wiring then 1,000 dollars is not unreasonable. Any reputable RV dealer will not sell the trailer without the proper hitch work.

    Q: I have heard people talk about the 75% rule of thumb for towing. How does this work?

    Mark says: There is some confusion on this subject. A lot of people say that you take the manufacturers tow rating for a vehicle and multiply it by 75% and this is the maximum weight you should tow. For example a tow rating of 8,000 pounds X 75% = 6,000 pounds. The 75 % rule is designed to build in a margin of safety. The way that I understand it and apply it is that you take the Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) of the tow vehicle X 75%, and the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of the tow vehicle X 75%. Once you determine this you subtract the two and this is the maximum weight you should tow. Using the same example above that vehicles GCWR is 14,000 pounds X 75% = 10,500 pounds. The GVWR is 8,800 X 75% = 6,600 pounds. 10,500 minus 6,600 = 3,900 pounds. I apply this rule if you plan to tow in high elevations. A gasoline engine looses 3 to 4 percent of its power for every 1,000 feet above sea level. The 75% rule compensates for that lose in power.


    Q:My 2006 Toyota Tundra Quad Cab truck has a GCVWR of 11,800 (12,200 from another source), let's be conservative and say 11,800. The truck does have factory installed towing package. Tow rating on truck with tow package is 7100lbs according to owners mannual. Trailer has dry weight of 5190 and gross weight rating of 6500lbs. My estimates on cargo and add on's, I have estimated at around 850 to 900lbs. If we did any dry camping it would be very rare. So I'm not allowing for a lot of water weight.

    So, loaded trailer weight should be about 6040lbs. Looking at it from this point I have almost 1100lbs of slack. But from at GCWR I'm pushing the envelope on weight. I do have a oil cooler with tow package. I have a prodigy brake controller, and I'm going with your recommendation and purchase an "Equalizer" hitch. They are kinda of high $$$, but I feel it will be money well spent. My truck also has a tow mode on the transmission. It takes it out of overdrive and runs the truck in 3rd gear. (There goes gas mileage!!)

    The Jayco trailer I am looking at and the weight of the truck, put me at 98% of the GCVWR. I know the lower percentage the better, but what I can't get a straight answer on is being at 98% will the truck still pull O.K. I don't want to put the truck in a bind, and I don't want to spend 20 minutes trying to get up a hill either. I have weighed my truck on a scale as recommended. It was loaded and full of gas. I probably went a little overboard putting fire wood in the bed to get some extra weight. Just trying to figure on high side. I have also taken dry weight of trailer and have added for propane, hitch weight, some water, and personnel food and gear. (Food & Gear I used about 350lbs.) Just some added info. Based on the length of the wheel base of my truck. I'm just about at the maxium on trailer length too. I am going to purchase weight distribution and sway control hitch. I just can't get a clear answer on towing ability at these weights from anyone. You're not trying to sell me a travel trailer, so any information you can provide me will be helpful.

    I also have purchased your Video Series: http://rveducation101.com/detailedinformation.asp?ID=2169on RV's and have gained a lot of information. This is our first RV and we have a lot to learn. We need all the help we can get.


    Mark says:I had a chance to review the information you sent. I have always said if the tow vehicle tow rating is higher than the trailers GVWR you are in pretty good shape (as long as you don't overload the trailer). And the key to the GCWR is to keep it below the GVW of the combined truck and trailer which you are, even though it is at 98%, it is below. If you plan to pull the trailer in the mountains a gas engine will loose 3 to 4% of its power at higher elevations and you may want to re-calulate your figures.

    Copyright 2007 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101

    RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. http://www.rveducation101.com/