Marks RV Mailbox - RVs Sitting Idle

Question:  When we are not using our RV, this could be for several months at a time, should I start the engine every week or so?

Mark’s Answer: I always add a fuel preservative to the fuel tank when our unit will sit idle for more than a couple months at a time. I run the engine and the generator long enough for the preservative to get through the fuel system. But, I still think it’s good to start and run the engine and generator at least monthly when in storage. It allows the oil to lubricate the dry components of the engine. When you run the generator be sure and run it with at least a half rated load on and if try to run it for at least an hour. You should be able to find the load ratings in the generator owners manual.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk

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Is your RV an Orphan?

RV 101-
Question:  I’ve been trying to find information about orphan RVs and if they will be supported in some way or another. So far, I’ve come up with nothing concrete. In particular, I’m talking about Fleetwood Discovery, 2006-08 model years.

Marks Answer: An orphan RV is an RV that was built and sold and at some point after the sale the RV manufacturer went out of business , leaving the consumer with no warranty, parts or service network. Unfortunately this happened with lots of RV manufacturers across the country during the recession.

Orphan RV’s have been a problem for lots of RVers as more manufacturers have closed their doors. Fleetwood however will continue to support RV owners in warranty, parts and service. If a person owns a motorized Fleetwood product, built prior to the new Fleetwood ownership, warranty work and service work will be honored at current Fleetwood dealerships.

This isn’t to say they will all be happy to do the work (it’s sad but some dealerships don’t like to work on units they didn’t sell) but they are supposed to work on Fleetwood products. So, its safe to say there is a pretty strong network regardless of where your travels may take you.

One other thought is to consider a good service contract on the unit so it will still be covered after any factory warranty expires. Just do your home work and make sure it is a reputable company with a good network of dealers around the country who will honor the contract.

There are many orphaned RV owners who can’t get any support whatsoever and that is a sad fact, but motorized Fleetwood products do not fall into that category.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk

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RV Toilet Chemicals Still Have Formaldehyde...REALLY?

Question: Why do they still sell toilet chemicals with formaldehyde in them? I haven’t used them in years, but still see them on the shelves of reputable stores.

Mark Says: Some states like California have been fighting to ban using formaldehyde in holding tank chemicals. The reason manufacturer’s use it is because formaldehyde does a good job controlling odors.

I should start by addressing what many consider the problem to be with formaldehyde in holding tank chemicals. Certain chemical additives like formaldehyde can cause septic tank failures by killing the bacteria needed for a septic tank to operate properly. The way formaldehyde controls odors is by killing the bacteria that causes the odor. So it kills the bacteria in the RV holding tanks as it attempts to control odors.

When you empty your holding tank the formaldehyde also kills the bacteria used to breakdown the wastes in the septic tank. When this happens over a period of time, like at a campground the septic tank can’t operate properly and the septic system gets clogs resulting in health risks and high costs to repair the problem.

So, what can we as RVers do to help? Even though formaldehyde helps control odors you should use holding tank deodorizers that do not contain formaldehyde. Look for enzyme or citrus based products that are biodegradable for use in your RV or boat and pass the word along to other RVers..

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk

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Polk’s Top 7 Reasons for Using a Tire Pressure Monitoring System

I think most RV owners have heard stories about an RV that had a tire blowout at one time or another. Some of these tire blowout stories are worse than others, and hopefully if you ever experience a tire blowout it will result in little damage and no one will be hurt.


There is more educational material available now on RV tire care and maintenance than ever before. We are instructed to check and inflate our tires to the correct pressure for the load, not to overload the RV, to inspect our tires for signs of damage and/or excessive wear and to replace tires that show any evidence of damage and at regular intervals.

This is all great advice that should be adhered to, but it is impossible to know what kind of damage may have already occurred to the inside of a tire, and you have no way of knowing when the tire might fail. Another consideration is what might be happening to the tires on your tow or towed vehicle as you travel around the country. Several years ago I had a tire blowout on our towed vehicle and barely noticed it until the entire inner fender was destroyed before I could safely pull over and stop.

This brings me to the topic of today’s article, a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS). For many years I traveled in RVs without a TPMS. Looking back now I honestly can’t tell you why I didn’t get and use a TPMS sooner. During the time I didn’t use a TPMS I had one rear tire blowout and was fortunate to be traveling at a lower speed when it happened. Even at a lower speed it caused some damage to our motorhome. It wasn’t until we were planning a long RV trip that I decided it was time to look into a TPMS.

I would like to give you my top 7 reasons for using a TPMS on your RV and tow or towed vehicle tires:

1)Most Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems I researched were easy to install and easy to use.

2)It’s a quick and easy way to check the tire pressure in every tire before traveling each day. The TPMS I use is accurate to within 2.7%. That’s as accurate as many tire gauges.

3)You can monitor both the RV and the towed vehicle tires as you travel. That’s what I call piece of mind!

4)A TPMS has an alarm/warning system to notify you of a potential problem. Knowing when there is a potential problem with a tire can limit damage to the RV and quite possibly save lives.

5)My TPMS monitors tires for a loss in air pressure and for possible overheating too.

6)A TPMS can be cost effective. The cost of a decent TPMS can be equivalent to the price of a new motorhome tire, not to mention the damage a blowout can cause to the RV and/or the towed vehicle.

7)I don’t think I was ever as relaxed traveling in the RV as I am now with the TPMS onboard. Driving is much more enjoyable when you know what the tire pressure is at any given time, and the fact that you will be warned if a problem with the tires exists.

As I researched the topic I discovered many reputable companies offering a TPMS that will work on larger motorhome tires. Based on my particular needs and on what I wanted in a TPMS I decided on the Tire Minder, Model TMG 400C by Minder Research

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
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Finally a Towing Standard on the Horizon!

What is J2807 and why is it important? If you haven’t heard, SAE J2807 is a standard that will be used to determine the trailer weight rating of all tow vehicles.

I don’t always agree with mandated standards, government or otherwise, but there is one standard looming out there that I am highly in favor of.

That standard is called “Performance Requirements for Determining Tow Vehicle Gross Combination Weight Ratings and Trailer Weight Ratings,” or in shorter terms Society of Engineers (SAE) standard J2807.

I do have to applaud manufacturers for getting behind and supporting a standard for measuring tow ratings for vehicles.

I have always had a problem with vehicle manufacturer published tow ratings, and even more so in the truck wars of recent years. When a ½ truck is rated to tow more than its bigger ¾ ton brothers I start to see red flags popping up everywhere. To bring you up to speed on this topic take a minute to read my first article titled “let’s Talk 1/2 Ton Trucks” that I wrote in 2007, and my follow-up article “2010 Let’s Talk 1/2 ton Trucks” which I wrote a couple of years later.

In my humble opinion the towing truck wars have always been based on bragging rights. My truck can tow more than your truck. And in reality the method for determining those bragging rights was left up to the guy who was doing the bragging.

The reason for some of these unrealistic tow capacities, at least the way I see it, was until now vehicle manufacturers had free reign to test and determine a vehicles tow capacity based on its own criteria. If somebody tells you to perform your own testing and publish the results the tendency is to test in a direction favorable to the design of the said vehicle you are testing. Therefore “my truck can tow more than your truck!”

On the other hand if you test against a specific standard you get results based on that standard, not just on some of the design elements built into the product being tested. In other words you get actual results and there is no bully on the block boasting I can tow more than you can. Now we know the real deal and the consumer wins in the end because you have a standard to compare and measure vehicles against.

This new standard will measure a vehicles towing performance based on several criteria using a standard test trailer. These criteria are:

1) Maintaining speed on a specified grade

2) Timed acceleration on level terrain

3) Timed acceleration up a 12% grade

4) Response to trailer sway

5) Braking characteristics at Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCW)

6) Hitch receiver structure and strength

To give you an example of what occurs when you apply these new standards Toyota put its 2011 Tundra through the paces. The results were towing capacities dropping 400lbs, 500lbs and 1,100lbs for various models of the Tundra, over previously published capacities.

I think it is notable for Toyota to step up to the plate and certify the Tundra against the new standards. It looks as though all of the other manufacturers are going to follow suit for model year 2013, including Chrysler, GM, Ford and Honda, and many trailer and hitch manufacturers as well.

It will be interesting to see what happens to tow capacities when J2807 is implemented across the board. I would venture to say that many other ½ ton tow ratings and Gross Combined Weight Ratings (GCWR) will be lowered, but hey we’ll just have to wait and see.

This J2807standard may not answer all of the questions we have or provide all of the information we want, but it’s long overdue that a standard be established for something as important as determining tow ratings.

Now maybe the consumer will have some reliable information to base a decision on when deciding which vehicle can safely tow the load! It sure beats the “my truck can tow more than your truck” mentality.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
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Tips for Eliminating RV Odors

Odors in our RV come in many different forms and are caused by many different sources. Some odors are pleasant, like fresh coffee brewing in the morning, and some are not so pleasant. The “not so pleasant” category includes holding tank odors, pet odors, cooking, smoke, must and mildew odors, just to name a few. Some of these odors result from normal use of the motorhome and some from sitting in storage. Today I want to give you some tips on how to control and eliminate some of these unpleasant odors.

Tip#1
Because RV’s are relatively small in size, when compared to a 2,000 SF home, odors tend to be more pronounced. Add to this the RV sits closed up for periods of time and these odor problems are compounded even more. This leads to one of the key factors for controlling odors, ventilation. Ventilation not only helps with odors, but can limit the amount of heat build-up in the RV too. A quick fix for this odor related problem is to install some aftermarket roof vent covers, like MaxxAir vent covers, over the existing roof vents. They are easy to install and a great feature about these ventilation products is that you can leave the roof vents open, even when it’s raining outside. These ventilation products will keep the air circulating throughout your motorhome and help prevent musty odors. Watch my installation video.

Tip#2
With the ventilation problem solved we can focus on other types of odors that linger in our RV. These odor molecules aren’t just in the air, they get in the fabrics, carpets, ceiling, window treatments and other areas of the RV. Pet, smoke, and musty odors can be extremely difficult to eliminate. During my days of selling RV’s I witnessed RV interiors that were professionally cleaned, but odors, like smoke, still remained afterwards. I also experimented with many different odor controlling products, but perhaps the best product I found for eliminating difficult odors is Fabreze. Lots of air fresheners just mask common odors, but in many cases masking an odor won’t eliminate it. You need something that can kill the odor causing bacteria in the air, which is what Fabreze does. After RV trips, or before storage, clean the RV thoroughly and spray Fabreze throughout. Don’t forget to spray the upholstery, carpet and fabrics too.

Tip#3
To help prevent cooking odors from becoming permanent odors in your RV make sure you turn the range exhaust fan on whenever you are cooking, and it’s a good idea to open a window too. To maximize the efficiency of the range exhaust fan keep the filter clean. On some RV’s it is necessary to go outside and open the range exhaust fan door so the cooking odors actually vent outside. Check your RV owner’s manual for more details concerning maintenance and operation of your range exhaust fan.

Tip#4
When it’s time to put the RV in storage there are several steps you can take to assist with controlling and eliminating common household odors. First, thoroughly clean the interior of the RV. Remove all perishable food and leave cabinet doors and drawers open so air can circulate. Defrost the freezer and thoroughly clean the refrigerator. Leave the refrigerator and freezer doors cracked open. I put a small tin of charcoal in the refrigerator compartment to help absorb any odors, baking soda works well too.

Tip#5
If you decide to leave your clothes in the RV during periods of storage use some mothballs to help control musty odors and leave the wardrobe doors and clothing drawers open to promote air circulation.

Tip#6
This brings us to the least favorite topic when discussing odors in our RV, RV holding tank odors. The good news is there are some very effective methods for controlling these odors too, and it doesn’t involve strong chemicals that can be dangerous to humans, pets and septic systems. First it would probably be helpful to explain why we sometimes get a bad odor from the RV black water holding tank, especially when you are traveling. Motorhome holding tanks are designed with a vent pipe going from the holding tanks to the roof. The holding tank odors accumulate in the tank and can’t really vent outside because there is no air pressure to force these gasses (odors) up and out of the vent pipe. The real problem occurs when wind blows across the vent cap on top of the RV roof, which escalates when you are traveling. This higher air pressure forces air down the vent pipe pushing the tank gasses (odors) to the only other way out of the system, the toilet. Whenever the air pressure is higher inside the holding tank, than it is inside the RV, the odor escapes into the RV by way of the toilet when it is flushed.

The good news is there are aftermarket RV products that will help solve holding tank odor problems caused by the design of the RV waste water system. These products are basically a redesigned breather system that attaches to the top of the vent pipe and actually draws the fumes out of the holding tank. These products work when the RV is stationary and when it’s moving.

Tip#7
Another problem associated with RV holding tank odors is the use of strong chemicals to help control these holding tank odors. Some of these formaldehyde based chemicals are dangerous to humans, pets, and the septic systems we empty our holding tanks in to. Because little water is used, in comparison to a domestic waste water system, RV holding tank wastewater is far more concentrated. The organic strength from the mixture in an RV holding tank can be fifteen to twenty times stronger than a typical wastewater system. This problem is compounded when the RVer gets some odors from the holding tank and dumps even more chemicals in the holding tank in an attempt to control the odors.

As many of you, who know my work know; I am a big advocate for saving our RV dump stations. I recommend using a holding tank treatment that is environmentally friendly and safe to use in septic systems. Enzyme based holding tank treatments, combined with a redesigned vent breather system, can effectively control holding tank odors. Don’t be afraid to put some holding tank treatment in the gray water holding tanks too. When the gray tank is empty add some water, and the holding tank treatment, to the sink drains to help keep the gray water tank free of odors. I add some dish washing liquid to the gray water tank periodically to assist with breaking down and grease and keep the holding tank clean.

So it’s safe to say with proper ventilation and a few good aftermarket RV products you can eliminate all of the tough odors commonly associated with enjoying our motorhomes.

Learn everything you need to know about using and maintaining your RV in this comprehensive online RV training program. Watch Video

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
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Cold Weather RVing

There are lots of things to do and see in the wintertime; beautiful winter scenery, snow skiing, hunting, riding snowmobiles and much more. It’s no wonder so many people enjoy using their RV’s year round. When winter approaches each year I get numerous e-mails requesting information about using RV’s in cold temperatures. One reason I haven’t written on this subject in the past is because it would require more than just a short article to thoroughly cover this topic. Another reason for not writing about this in the past is that there are no guarantees that your RV can or will be 100% protected from the harsh winter elements by following written advice on the subject.

What I can do is offer you some suggestions and ideas that will help to protect your RV if you plan to use it during the cold winter months. I just can’t guarantee that it will be 100% protected. These suggestions and ideas are for short term winter camping in your RV. If you plan to take extended RV trips in cold weather there are many other precautions and measures that need to be considered, like using insulated skirting around the bottom of the RV for example.

Note: What we will be concentrating on in this article is how to protect your RV during cold weather camping. It is extremely important that you also understand how to protect yourself and other campers in cold temperatures.

One of the first considerations for cold weather RVing is if you will be traveling in temperatures below freezing. If this is the case, and there is water in the RV water system, your plumbing lines or water heater tank could freeze, resulting in costly repair bills, not to mention ruining your winter wonderland RV trip. To avoid this from happening I travel with the water system winterized. It is actually much easier to winterize an RV than most people think it is, and it’s not very expensive either. I have winterized and de-winterized our RV as many as four times in one winter.

The good news is it is still possible to use the bathroom facilities when you are traveling with the RV winterized. We take one gallon jugs filled with water to use in the toilet, and if your holding tanks are not heated you can put some RV antifreeze in the holding tanks to prevent the contents from freezing. Add the RV antifreeze (1-2 gallons) through the toilet for the black water holding tank and down the shower or tub drain for the gray water tank. The antifreeze will also protect the shower or tub P-trap which is usually located below floor level. The amount of antifreeze required for the holding tanks will be based on the size of the tanks, and it will be necessary to add more RV antifreeze as waste water is added to the tanks to prevent the antifreeze from being diluted.

Don’t allow the holding tanks to fill completely, before emptying them, during cold weather camping. This will reduce the chance of freezing, resulting in damage to the holding tanks. Take bottled water along for drinking and other needs like cooking, washing up and brushing your teeth when the RV is winterized. We have a five gallon jug that we always take on trips, filled with tap water from our house, for our pet’s drinking water and our other needs. This comes in handy when the RV is winterized.

When we arrive at our destination I try to select a site that will be exposed to the sun throughout the day, but also where there is some type of wind break available. Position the RV on the site so the front or rear will be facing the brunt of any wind, not the side of the RV. If there is an electrical hook-up I de-winterize the water system so we can use everything. All of the water lines in our motorhome are in a heated space, so we don’t need to be too concerned about the water system freezing as long as the RV has heat. We leave the water heater turned on whenever the water heater tank is full so there is no chance of it freezing. Some water heaters operate off of LP gas and electricity. Keep in mind if it’s in the electric mode it will use 9 to 13 amps.

It’s important that you know where all of the plumbing on your RV is located. Some RVs have heat ducts going to the basement storage areas where the water system is exposed to outside temperatures, but many RVs do not. If portions of the RV water system are below floor level, in areas that are not heated, it is possible for it to freeze and damage the water lines. If you are hooked up to an external water supply one option is to leave a faucet in the RV dripping, to keep the water moving, and decrease the possibility of water lines freezing. Another option is to use heat tape to protect the exposed water lines. Heat tape can be purchased at most hardware or building supply stores. Make sure it is suitable for the types of water lines in your RV, and if you plan to use it on a water hose.

If it is extremely cold outside and the possibility exists that the outside water supply could freeze, or if the campground water supply is shut off for the winter, I fill our fresh water holding tank and use it for all of our water requirements. Again, keep in mind where your fresh water tank is located; ours is in a heated area. If the campgrounds shower facilities are still open it’s a good idea to use them to avoid the gray water holding tank from filling so quickly. In this situation it might be in your best interest to keep the RV winterized and just use the campgrounds facilities.

The best source for heat is to use the RVs forced air furnace. There are a couple of things you need to be aware of when you use the RV furnace. First of all it will consume more LP gas than any of the other LP gas fired appliances. The LP tank or cylinders should be full before leaving on your trip, and you will need to monitor the LP gas supply carefully during your stay. Second, if you are not plugged into an electrical supply the furnace fan can quickly drain the auxiliary battery(s). Batteries that are not fully charged in cold temperatures can freeze resulting in not being able to use the RV furnace. I recommend that you plan your stay where you have access to an electrical supply when camping in cold weather. When we are plugged into electricity we set the forced air furnace on a low setting, around 60 degrees, and supplement the heat with thermostatically controlled ceramic heaters. These heaters work extremely well and you don’t need to be concerned about a fire or carbon monoxide.

Caution: Carbon monoxide is deadly. You cannot see it, taste it or smell it. Never use your range burners or oven as a source of heat. If your RV is not equipped with a carbon monoxide detector you should purchase a battery operated model designed for use in RV’s. Always test the carbon monoxide detector for proper operation before each trip.

You also need to be aware of the symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning:

* Dizziness
* Vomiting
* Nausea
* Muscular twitching
* Intense headache
* Throbbing in the temples
* Weakness and sleepiness
* Inability to think coherently

If you or anybody else experiences any of these symptoms get to fresh air immediately and if the symptoms persist seek medical attention. Information on carbon monoxide poisoning.

If you will be camping where you don’t have access to an electrical hook-up one option is to use a generator. A generator can keep the RV batteries topped off and allow you to use the RV furnace. You will need to have a sufficient supply of fuel on hand for the generator. If it’s a portable generator make sure the exhaust is directed away from the area where you are camping. Regardless of the type of generator always make sure the exhaust system is in proper operating condition and the carbon monoxide detector is working properly.

Here are a few more cold weather RV tips in no particular order:

* Do not store any water hoses with water in them. If you need to use it, it will probably be frozen. You can take it inside to thaw out if need be, or use a hair dryer.

* Covering the windows with curtains, drapes or almost anything will help to hold some of the heat in. It helps to cover overhead vent openings too.

* It may be necessary to take military type showers to keep from filling the gray water tank so quickly. Heat up some water, take the water and a tall glass and enjoy your shower.

* Leave cabinets or drawers open where water lines are located to allow heat to circulate around plumbing.

* Try to avoid opening the entry door as much as possible.

* Oh and don’t forget the electric blanket. It can be a lifesaver at night.

* If you haven’t purchased your RV yet and you know you will be using an RV in cold weather see if the manufacturer offers an arctic package option when you buy it. Some packages include higher R-factor insulation values, enclosed underbelly, heated holding tanks, dual pane windows and more.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
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RV Extended Stay Maintenance Checks

Normally when you plan a trip in your RV you conduct some type of pre-trip checks to make sure the RV is properly prepared for travel. When it’s time to leave the campground you perform these checks again for the return trip. But what happens when you find that perfect campground or RV Park and stay put for extended periods of time? Do you conduct routine maintenance checks on the RV to make sure it is in a safe and operable condition while it’s parked? Most likely you do, but if not here are some extended-stay maintenance checks to consider performing.

Inflate the tires to the manufacturer’s recommended pressure. Tires can lose as much as 2 to 3 psi a month. If you stay in one spot for three or six months the tire pressure could be dangerously low. If the unit is not being moved check and adjust the tire pressure on a monthly basis. Ozone in the air and UV rays from the sun shorten the life of your RV tires. Ozone causes tires to dry rot and deteriorate and UV rays make it happen quicker. This is especially true of the tires sidewall. You should inspect your tires periodically for any checking or cracks in the tire sidewalls. If you notice any damage, have the tires inspected by a professional before using the RV. Tire failure on an RV can be extremely dangerous and can cause costly damage to the RV. Keep the tires covered with covers that block out the sunlight when the RV is sitting in one spot or not in use.

Place some type of RV leveling blocks between the ground and the tires. Be sure that whatever you use is larger than the footprint of the tire. No portion of the tire should hang over the edge of the tire block. This can cause internal damage to the tire. There are actually several reasons for blocking tires. First is to make sure the RV is as level as possible so more weight isn’t on one tire than the others. Storage surface areas can cause your tires to age prematurely. You don’t want to leave the tires in contact to any heat producing material or petroleum based material like asphalt for long periods of time. You also don’t want them exposed to constant cold or moisture, like sitting on the frozen ground. The wood or blocking acts as a barrier between the tires and the ground surface they are being stored on.

If it’s a motorized RV you should fill the fuel tank prior to parking it for a long stay and add a fuel stabilizer. Run the engine and the generator long enough for the fuel stabilizer to get through the fuel system. If you are not using the generator you should exercise it monthly with a minimum of a ½ rated load on it. Consult your generator set owner’s manual for rated loads.

Check and fill the water levels in all batteries and make sure the batteries stay fully charged. The electrolyte levels in batteries will be depleted through long term use. Check the water levels once or twice a week depending on usage. Many RV converter chargers provide a constant charge of about 13.5 volts which is too high for fully charged batteries and the electrolyte is boiled off, resulting in an early death for the batteries. You can use a digital voltmeter to measure voltage and get a quick picture of the batteries depth of discharge. A fully charged battery should read about 12.7 volts. Don’t check the voltage when the RV is plugged in, you will get a false reading. For a true reading of the batteries they should be tested after resting for 12 hours. Resting means the battery is disconnected from any charger or any load for at least 12 hours.

Change the oil and oil filter on the engine and the generator prior to long stays or long term storage. Acids accumulate in used oil and can corrode engine bearings.

Routinely test the operation of the carbon monoxide detector, LP gas leak detector and smoke alarm. Check the fire extinguisher monthly to make sure it is fully charged. Clean or replace air conditioner filters as required.

Before moving the RV, after extended- stays or storage, check all fluid levels in the transmission, power steering, engine coolant, engine oil, windshield washer and brakes. Consult your vehicle owner’s manual for proper levels. Start the engine and check for proper readings on all gauges. Check the condition of windshield wiper blades and replace them if necessary. Check the operation of all chassis lights. Make sure the vehicle emissions / inspection sticker is up to date.

Complete your normal pre-trip checks before heading out on the road again.

I realize there are many other items that could be added to this list, but this is a good starting point. You can tailor this list to your own personal needs.

For more great information on maintaining your RV check out our RV Care & maintenance DVD.

Happy Camping,

Mark Polk

RV Education 101

RV University

Some Interesting RV Poll Results

The outcome of any poll depends on several factors like; what type of poll it is, how the questions are worded, who is asking the questions and of course who does and does not participate in the poll.

Each week we conduct an RV poll in our e-newsletter. The RV poll is not a scientific poll, a political poll or a marketing poll. It is basically used to give me some idea of what our newsletter readers are interested in, how they use their RVs and just for the fun of it. I thought it would be interesting to look back at some of our past RV polls and see how the participants responded.

Here's what I found out.

• 85% travel with the refrigerator on and 15% travel with it off
• 53% prefer diesel and 47% prefer gas
• 79% eat more meals in the RV and 21% eat more meals out
  89% conduct a spring check-up on their RV before using it and 11% don't
• 67% said the recession won't change plans to use the RV and 33% said it will
• 72% said their average RV trips are one week or less and 28% said their average RV trips are two weeks or longer
• 54% own motorized RV's and 46% own towable RV's
• 91% plan two or more summer RV trips and 9% plan only one
  63% store the RV on their own property and 37% make other storage arrangements
• 82% check the tire pressure before each trip and 18% don't
• 24% said a hybrid RV chassis would affect their buying decision and 76% said it wouldn't have any affect
• 90% said they use environmentally friendly holding tank chemicals and 10% don't
• 63% use their RV in the winter and 37% don't
• 51% RV green and 49% don't
• 100% have taken advantage of free overnight parking at one time or another
• 70% have stayed in a friends or relatives driveway before and 30% have not
• 77% were against the new Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) regulations and 23% were not
• 86% are not fulltime RVers and 14% are
• 83% use a GPS in their RV and 17% don't. Of those, 62% were led down the wrong path one time or another, but 93% would still recommend a GPS to other RV owners
• 81% were prepared for the digital TV switchover in their RV and 19% were not
• 19% frequently stay at state or federal campgrounds, 34% stay at private campgrounds, 5% stay at public campgrounds and 42% stay at a combination of all three
• 49% have experienced at least one tire blowout with their RV and 51% have not
• 81% have stayed in their RV during severe weather and 19% have not
• 70% have experienced rude behavior from other campers and 30% have not
• 67% use a pre-departure checklist when they RV and 33% don't
• 98% have one or more slide outs on their RV and 2% don't have any slide outs
• 60% shower in the RV more than the campground bath house and 40% shower in the bath house more than the RV
• 88% winterize their own RV and 12% have it winterized by an RV dealer
• 34% take bottled water with them, 14% use filtered water and 52% use both bottled & filtered water in their RV
• 92% take pets with them on RV trips and 8% don't
• 59% wash their RV as needed, 30% wash it after each trip, 7% wash it before storing and 4% never wash it
• 71% pack as much food as possible before leaving and 29% buy groceries when they arrive at their destination
• 30% pre-cook meals before leaving and 70% don't
• 30% traveled by RV last Thanksgiving, 36% traveled by car, 1% by plane and 33% stayed home
• 36% have weighed their RV and 64% have not
• 33% have used their RV as a guesthouse and 67% have not
• 84% have cleaned their RV roof at some point and 16% have never cleaned their RV roof
• 78% perform routine maintenance on their RV and 22% take it to a dealer for maintenance
• 72% have dry camped with their RV and 28% have not
• 81% have camped in a national or state park and 19% have not
• 31% have had problems with rodents in their RV and 69% have not

To read more RV poll results visit these links:


More Interesting RV Poll Results
RV Poll Results (3rd Installment)
RV Poll Results (4th Installment)


Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
RV Education 101
RV University
RV Orientation
Go for the RV Gold
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RV Consumer

Where's the Spare

Why don’t some RV manufacturers include a spare tire with a new RV? Is it a liability issue or a cost issue? I have heard both sides of the story over the years, and it usually depends on what type of a RV you are talking about.

I have owned three towable RV’s and two motorized RV’s. Two of the towable RV’s came with spare tires when I purchased them and I ordered a spare tire as an option on our Class C motorhome, but I could not get a spare for our Class A motorhome.

It seems ridiculous that you buy an RV, designed for traveling all over the country, and the one thing not included is a spare tire. Let’s try to find out why there’s no spare!

It has been rumored that many years ago an RV owner got hurt while changing a tire on his motorhome and that he sued the RV manufacturer. This is supposedly why many motorhome manufacturers opt not to include a spare tire, especially on larger motorhomes.

Admittedly changing a spare tire on a large motorhome is not the same as changing a tire on your automobile. From a liability standpoint the argument is because of the size of the RV and the weight of the tire and wheel it can be dangerous for an individual to attempt changing a tire. Plus you would need to carry some special type of equipment to safely and properly change a tire. I would have to agree, but why not include a spare (without a jack or the other necessary equipment) and have a mandatory warning label stating the dangers of changing a tire along with a recommendation to use a professional road side tire service to change the tire for the owner.

Here is what some RV and chassis manufacturers have to say:

Why doesn't the RV come with a spare tire?

The combined weight of the tire and wheel is approximately 110 pounds. Even if you feel comfortable lifting that amount of weight, other variables pose a problem when it comes to changing an RV tire. You may find yourself on the side of the road in a confined situation, or during the nighttime when it is raining.

Jacking up the side of the RV would be difficult. Leveling jacks are not designed to lift the entire wheel off the ground to change a tire. To change a flat RV tire, it would be necessary to store the correct jacks and jack stands for safety. The next hurdle would be the lug nuts, which are torqued to 500 pounds and difficult to remove. Once removed, and while reinstalling, a tool to properly retorque the lug nuts would be needed. All these necessary tools, combined with the actual spare tire, would take up a considerable amount of space and add additional weight to the RV. Call roadside assistance for tire repair and save yourself the aggravation.

My vehicle doesn’t include a spare tire. Where can I get one and where can I store it?

Most larger motorhomes don't provide a spare for several reasons. Generally, the wheel assembly is too cumbersome and heavy for one person to change alone without risking injury. We'd recommend that, in the case of a flat, you enlist the help of a roadside service crew to fix your flat tire. If you do decide to obtain a spare wheel assembly, contact your dealer for details on ordering one and the proper way to store it.

Now that we know why some motorhome manufacturers don’t include spares why don’t some of the towable manufacturers include spares?

This is where the cost issue comes into play. RV manufacturers look at every penny going in to manufacturing the RV. Not including a spare in the base price of the RV can save money, so they list the spare tire as optional. What this means is when the RV dealer orders the unit they can add a spare or not add a spare. If a dealer is trying to bring a unit in based on price point they limit the options included on the unit. When I was a RV sales manager I included a spare tire on every towable unit just because it made sense and it really wasn’t that expensive.

You still need to consider the safety aspects of changing a tire on a trailer. Even though it’s smaller and lighter than a motorhome tire you still need equipment like a jack, jack stands, lug wrench and torque wrench. In addition to the equipment required, you need to have a basic understanding of how to safely and properly jack the trailer up. But again, if you have a spare you can always call a roadside service to change it for you. If you don’t have a spare you may be stranded in some out of the way place until the tire can be ordered and come in. This could take a couple of days, or longer.

That brings me to how this article came about. We are planning a cross country RV trip this summer and I refuse to go without a spare tire. Our motorhome has 22.5 inch tires with 8 lug rims. When I tried to locate a tire and rim it was difficult to find one. I’m sure I could order one from the manufacturer, but I would be afraid to know what the cost is. We have a good roadside assistance plan so what I decided to do was to just buy the tire itself and if I have a flat the roadside tire service can mount the new tire on the rim. It is less weight to carry and it eliminates the possibility of delays due to ordering and waiting for a tire to come in, if it isn’t in stock.

Regardless of whether or not your RV came with a spare I think it’s a good idea to get one, and I think for safety reasons you are better off having a roadside service plan that will change the tire for you.

What do you think?

Mark Polk

RV Education 101

RV University

RV Shows, your Wintertime RV Fix

In late November we took our last RV camping trip for the year. We had a great time and when we returned I cleaned the RV, winterized it, and prepared it for storage. When I closed the garage door behind me the reality sank in that there would be no more RV adventures until sometime this coming spring. It’s always a bit depressing to park the RV with no plans to use it for two or three months. It’s sort of like when football season ends, or your favorite television program ends, and you need to wait several months for the next season to begin.

What I discovered can help you through these rough times is to attend some RV shows. You might need to park the RV for awhile but that doesn’t mean you can’t think about RV’s, look at RV’s, or plan the next trip in your RV.

RV shows offer the avid RVer a fix to get through the wintertime RV blues. You don’t need to be in the market for a new RV to attend an RV show. It’s a lot of fun to just look at all the new RV models coming out and to dream a little bit. If you’re not shopping for an RV just be careful and keep reminding yourself that you’re only there to look. With all of the excitement, not to mention a good salesperson, it’s easy to make a hasty buying decision.

There is a lot of ground to cover at an RV show and a wealth of information available. RV shows aren’t just for RV dealers to showcase their new products. RV shows are a great source of information from knowledgeable representatives on every aspect of the RV industry. You will find information on campgrounds, RV resorts and new destinations you can visit. You will get to see a wide variety of RV aftermarket products and accessories available for RVers, and many times there will be some great RV seminars you can attend. RV shows are a good place to talk to RV manufacturer representatives and other industry experts too. Many of the RV manufacturers send knowledgeable representatives to assist RV dealers with their products. This is a good opportunity to ask any questions you might have about a particular RV brand or model. RV shows are also a great place to just talk with other RVers. Many of these people have years of RV experience and knowledge of different RV related products.

If you are a new RVer, or if you are in the market for a new RV, these shows are a great place to start your research. RV dealers come from miles away to attend RV shows. When you attend an RV show don’t be afraid to ask questions about the RV dealership and the products they have to offer. Not only will you find a good selection of RV dealers to check out, but there will be every make and model of RV imaginable too. RV shows are a great place to do some comparison shopping too. Keep in mind that RV’s are available in entry, mid-line, and high-end models. When comparing prices, make sure it is apples to apples. One RV may look like another one, but you need to compare the options, construction, equipment and features they both have to offer. If you are in the market to buy an RV you should have some idea of what your needs are, what you want, and how you plan to use the RV. This is extremely important. Here are a few things to consider before you buy at an RV show.

• What type of RV is best suited for you and your family?
• What type of floor plan will work best for you and your family?
• What price and monthly payment will comfortably fit in your budget?
• Do you plan to travel cross-country with the RV or is it going to be set up at one location and left there?
• If you’re going to be towing the RV is the tow vehicle capable of handling the weight of the RV and do you have the proper hitch work to safely tow it?
• How many people will be in the RV and what are the sleeping requirements?
• Is there enough seating space?
• Do you need a slide-out(s) for additional living space?
• Is there enough exterior storage, and are the storage compartments large enough to accommodate what you plan to take?
• Is there enough closet, cabinet and drawer space for all of your personal belonging?
• Are there enough cabinets and drawers in the kitchen? Don’t forget about the pots and pans.
• How much counter space does it have in the kitchen? Is it enough?
• Where is the dinette table in relation to the range, oven and the refrigerator? Does it make sense?
• How does the bed feel when you lay down? Is it long enough and wide enough?
• Are there windows where you want windows?
• Can you reach the microwave?
• Is the A/C ducted throughout the unit? If not will it cool the entire unit?
• Do you prefer a split bathroom where the shower is separate, or a bathroom where everything is together?
• Is the bathroom big enough? Can you stand up in the shower and sit on the toilet?
• How much fresh water can you take with you? Is it enough?
• How large are the gray water and black water holding tanks? Are they large enough for the way you plan to use the RV?
• How much LP gas does it hold? Is it enough for how you plan to use the RV?
• If you want a motorhome drive it before you buy it.
• Do you need a generator?
• If equipped with a TV where is it located in relation to the seating arrangements?
• How long is the warranty for on the RV? Do you need extended coverage to protect your investment?
• How is the RV constructed?
• If you’re buying a motor home do you want gas or diesel? Which type is more practical for how you plan to use it?
• Does the RV have the options that you want?

This is just a partial list, but it should help you make a more informed decision before you purchase an RV. The Recreation Vehicle Industry Association, RVIA, offers a very good, searchable database to assist you in locating upcoming RV shows near you. RV shows are usually advertised on local television and radio stations too.
So what are you waiting for? Find out when the next RV show will be in your area and make it a point to attend. This can be just the RV fix you need until it’s time to take your RV out of storage for another great camping season. Oh, and don’t forget to wear some comfortable walking shoes too!
If you’re new to RVing and/or are considering purchasing an RV be sure to check out our latest DVD release, An Introduction to RV’s.


Happy Camping,
Mark Polk
RV Education 101
RV University
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Preventive Maintenance Checks for an RV Generator

Preventive Maintenance (PM) is maintenance the owner can perform on your RV before a problem exists. These checks are designed to prevent or identify potential problems that could lead to mechanical breakdown, malfunction or failure of a component or system on your RV. Preventive Maintenance consists of cleaning, inspecting, lubricating, adjusting and servicing your RV.
Here are some PM checks you can perform on a typical RV generator. In addition to these checks you should always follow the maintenance schedule and guidelines that came with your specific generator set.
Note: These PM checks are for a gasoline fueled generator. There are diesel propane fueled generators too. Some of these checks apply to all types, but some don’t. Consult your generator owner’s manual for maintenance checks and services for your specific generator.

1) Always check the oil level and the exhaust system prior to starting the generator. Starting and running a generator that is low on oil can result in costly damage to the generator’s engine. Add oil as required. Check your owner manual for the type of oil to use. A damaged exhaust system can result in carbon monoxide gas getting inside the RV. Always inspect the entire generator exhaust system prior to starting the generator. Never operate a generator with a damaged exhaust system!

2)Keep the generator set and the compartment it is housed in clean. You can use compressed air to assist in cleaning out the generator compartment and a clean shop rag to clean the generator set. While you are cleaning the generator check all electrical connectors for secure connections.
Note: always wear safety glasses when using compressed air.

3)Check all of the filters on the generator. A typical generator may have an air filter, fuel filter and oil filter. Check your generator owner manual for the types of filters your generator has and where they are located. Maintenance checks and services for a generator are based on hours of operation. You need to monitor the hour meter on your generator set for all maintenance intervals.

a)Check the air filter for cleanliness. You can remove it and inspect the fins on the back for signs of dirt or debris. You can tap the air filter on a flat surface to help remove some of the dirt and debris. Change a dirty filter, or change it at prescribed intervals. Inspect the air filter more often in dusty conditions.

b)The fuel filter will typically be an in-line type filter. Over time it filters out and collects enough debris that it can interfere with the flow of fuel. Check and replace the fuel filter at prescribed intervals.

c)We’ll talk about the oil filter in just a minute.

4)Change the oil and oil filter (if equipped). This is perhaps the most important PM Service you can perform on your generator to ensure years of reliable service. Change the oil and replace the oil filter at the recommended intervals. It’s really quite simple to do. Your generator owner’s manual will usually describe the steps to follow. If you don’t feel comfortable changing the oil and filter have an authorized RV service center do it for you.

5)Replace the spark plugs at recommended intervals. If you ever replaced the spark plugs in a vehicle you can replace the plugs in the generator, unless due to the constraints of the generator compartment you can’t access the spark plugs. In this case you may want to let an authorized RV service center do it for you. If you decide to do it yourself check your generator owner manual for the correct type of plug to use and double check the spark plug gap before installing the plugs. Do not over tighten spark plugs!

6)Exercise the generator. There are several reasons why you should start and exercise the generator on a regular basis. Moisture build up can cause damage to your generator. When you exercise your generator it heats up the generator windings and eliminates this moisture build up. This monthly exercise regime also lubricates all of the engine seals and components and helps to prevent carbon build up. So, what exactly do I mean when I say exercise your generator? For a gasoline generator I mean that you start and run the generator with at least a 50 % load, for at least two hours every month. It is extremely important that you run it with this minimum rated load. Generators are designed to run with a load placed on them. It’s always better to let your generator run for longer time periods than it is for short time periods. Check your generator owner’s manual for load ratings specific to your unit. Always try to avoid starting or stopping a generator when there is a 120 volt device or appliance turned on.

7)Add a fuel stabilizer during periods of storage or non-use. If it’s a motorhome add a fuel stabilizer to the motorhomes gas tank and run the generator long enough for the stabilizer to get through the fuel system. This will help prevent gas related problems on carbureted generators, like not starting or surging. These are problems you don’t need. Fuel stabilizers can protect the fuel system for up to six months, but keep in mind the importance to exercise the generator when possible.

Well there you have it. Follow these simple steps, and the maintenance and service instructions in the generator owner’s manual, and you can get years of reliable service from your generator set.

A couple of additional tips for generator maintenance are to keep the battery that is used to start the generator maintained, and when running the generator monitor the AC voltage and frequency output with some type of digital plug in meter. I recommend one that can test campground polarity, measure AC line voltage and AC frequency. Frequency is the number of times that electricity alternates per second. U.S. appliances are designed to operate at 60 cycles per second, or 60 hertz.

When you use your generator the governor in the generator must hold the speed constant at, or close to 60 hertz from no load on the generator to a full load. Depending on the load placed on the generator, AC voltage can range from 105 to 135 volts and the frequency can range from 58 to 63 hertz. Anything outside of these parameters can cause problems for your RV electrical system and/or generator set. The meter will let you know when the generator is not operating within the proper ranges and you can have it checked out and repaired before any damage occurs.

Happy Camping,
Mark J. Polk

RV Education 101

RV University

copyright 2009 by Mark Polk owner of RV Education 101

Extend the Life of your RV Awnings

Awnings are a great feature to have on your RV. There are several different types of RV awnings and they serve different purposes. There are window and door awnings that provide shade and keep rain away from your RV windows or entry door. There are slide-out awnings that help protect the top of the slide-out from debris and water. And there are patio awnings. Patio awnings extend the living area of our outdoor world. Similar to the front porch of your home, the patio awning provides us with shade and cover from a light rain when we want to sit and enjoy the great outdoors. The awnings on your RV will provide years of reliable trouble free operation, if you take the time to do a little preventive maintenance and cleaning.

Perhaps the most important component of an awning is the fabric. Fabric used on RV awnings is one of two types, acrylic or vinyl. Acrylic fabric is a woven cloth that lets air circulate through the fabric. This air circulation allows the fabric to dry quickly when it gets wet. Acrylic fabrics are water repellent, but not waterproof. If you have experience tent camping you know that you shouldn’t touch the underside of the tent when it’s wet. Touching the wet fabric allows water to seep through the fabric. The same applies to an acrylic awning fabric. Vinyl awning fabric is mildew resistant, but not necessarily mildew proof. Mildew can form on the dirt and dust that collects on the vinyl fabric. It will be worse in high temperatures, humidity and if the fabric is stored when it is wet.

Some awnings have an aluminum or vinyl wrap-around weather guard that protects the awning fabric when it’s in the travel or stored position. When you open the awning for the first time each year, or if it has been stored for a while, you will need to inspect the awning fabric for any signs of mildew or stains. Remember vinyl awnings will mildew. To prevent dirt from imbedding into the woven fabric of an acrylic awning fabric you should simply hose the fabric off on a routine basis. Avoid scrubbing acrylic awning fabric. Scrubbing can remove the water retardant finish. For stubborn stains blot the approved cleaner on the acrylic fabric with a sponge or soft cloth.

For more difficult stains or mildew on a vinyl awning fabric there are after market commercial cleaners made just for awning fabrics. One method that seems to work well is to spray the inside and outside of the awning fabric with the appropriate cleaner, then roll it up and let it sit for several minutes. This distributes the cleaner over the entire surface of the awning fabric and allows the cleaner time to work. Open the awning and thoroughly rinse both sides of the fabric. It may be necessary to scrub stubborn stains with a brush on a vinyl awning fabric before rinsing. You can clean the awning hardware with the same cleaner you use to wash the RV.

Note: Never use oil based or abrasive cleaners on awning fabrics. Clean and thoroughly rinse both sides of the awning fabric. Carefully follow all awning and cleaner manufacturer directions.

Inspecting the Awning
Inspect the awning fabric for any tears or excessive wear. Talk to your RV dealer about what materials to use to repair or patch the awning fabric.

Do not store the awning when the fabric is wet. Allow enough time for it to dry completely, on both sides, before storing the awning.
While the awning is out, inspect the awning hardware. The bottom awning brackets support most of the load from the awning. Check the lag screws in the awning brackets for secure mounting. Inspect the arm pivot holes for any enlarged holes or broken rivets in the handles.
Check for a warped roller tube. If the roller tube is warped it will be noticeable when you roll the awning out.
Inspect the awning end caps for secure mounting and broken rivets. Caution: Never attempt to remove the awning end caps. Spring tension can result in serious injury.
Make sure the awning rail is securely mounted to the side of the RV.
Note: Have any damaged or broken parts repaired before using the awning.

In addition to cleaning and inspecting your awning there are a few things to keep in mind when using the awning.

Always lower one end of the awning to allow for water runoff. The weight from water pooling on the awning fabric can cause extensive and costly damage.
Any wind gusts over 20 miles per hour can also cause extensive damage to the awning and to the RV. Never leave the awning out unattended. If everyone is leaving the campsite, store the awning in the travel position. When you go to bed, store the awning. Even when you are at the campsite, you should use awning tie downs to prevent any sudden damage caused by high wind gusts or a sudden storm.
You have the option to position the awning arms straight down and stake them to the ground, but you will get better support if they’re attached to the bottom awning brackets on the side of the RV. Remember, it is much easier to prevent damage to your awning than it is to repair it.

Awning Tip: Check with your RV insurance provider to make sure your RV awning is covered in the event of any damage. Some insurance companies require separate insurance coverage on the RV awnings.

For more in-depth information on RV awnings check out our RV Awning Use, Care & Accessories DVD
View a video clip on how to install a window awning in six easy steps

Well that about does it. With the proper care and a little preventive maintenance you and your RV awnings will have it made in the shade.

Happy Camping,

Mark J. Polk

RV Education 101

RV University

copyright 2009 by Mark Polk owner of RV Education 101

RV 101® - RV Winterizing 101 (Part 2)

RV 101® - Winterizing Your RV Part 1 click HERE.
We enjoy using our RV as much as possible throughout the year. But when you can’t use your RV, for whatever reasons and temperatures are approaching freezing, it’s important that you protect it. Last week I talked about preparing your RV’s interior, exterior and chassis for storage during the colder winter months. I mentioned at the beginning of the article that the RV plumbing system is the most vulnerable to damage caused by plummeting temperatures. The good news is it is really quite easy to protect the RV water system from this potential threat. I am including a checklist from my “Checklists for RVers” eBook to help walk you through the winterizing process.


Before you get started there are a few items you will need to have. These items can be found in most RV parts stores:

■ Non-toxic RV/Marine antifreeze. The amount depends on the layout and length of your plumbing lines. Two to three gallons will normally do.
■A water heater by-pass kit, if not already installed.
■ A tank wand to clean out the holding tanks, if you don’t have a built-in flushing system.
■A water pump converter kit, or tubing to connect to the inlet side of the water pump.
■ Basic hand tools to remove drain plugs.
Note: Be sure to read your owner’s manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines. Follow the steps below that apply to your RV.

■If you have any inline water filters remove and/or bypass before starting.
■Drain the fresh water holding tank.
■Empty and flush the gray and black water holding tanks if it hasn’t already been done. If the RV doesn’t have a built-in flushing system clean the black tank out with a tank cleaning wand.
■Drain the water heater. Open the pressure relief valve and remove the drain plug.
Caution: Never drain the water heater when hot or under pressure. With no water hooked up to the RV and the water pump off, open a hot water faucet to remove any pressure on the system. Allow sufficient time for the tank to cool before draining.

■ Open all hot and cold faucets; don’t forget the toilet valve (pedal or lever) and the outside shower (if equipped).
■Locate and open the low point water drain lines.
■Use the water pump to help force most of the remaining water out of the system, but turn it off as soon as the system is drained to prevent damaging the pump.
Note: It is not necessary to get every drop of water out of the water system, but you want to get most of it out. The non-toxic RV antifreeze will prevent the small amount of remaining water from freezing.

■Recap all drains and close all faucets.
■ By-pass the water heater. If you do not have a by-pass kit installed the water heater will fill up with RV antifreeze before it goes through the water lines, wasting six or ten gallons of antifreeze.
Note: A water heater by-pass kit can save you money in two ways. It saves you from using an extra six or ten gallons of non-toxic RV antifreeze when it’s time to winterize your RV, and a bypass kit also prevents costly damage like ruptured water lines or a ruptured water heater tank. If water is left in the lines or tank they can freeze and expand, splitting the lines or tank. With a bypass kit you simply drain the water heater, put it in the by-pass mode and the antifreeze bypasses the tank and goes directly into the water lines.

■Install a water pump converter kit, or disconnect the inlet side of the water pump (the line coming from the fresh water holding tank to the pump) and connect tubing from the water pump inlet into a one gallon jug of RV antifreeze.
■ Turn the water pump on and pressurize the system. Starting with the closest faucet to the pump, slowly open the hot and then cold valves until the colored RV antifreeze appears. Replace the antifreeze container as required.
■Repeat this procedure on all faucets from the closest to the farthest away. Don’t forget the outside shower (if equipped).
■ Flush the toilet until antifreeze appears.
■Pour a cupful of antifreeze down every drain (all sinks, shower & tub drains).
■Pour some RV antifreeze in the toilet and flush into the holding tank to prevent any water in the tank from freezing.
■If your water heater has an electric heating element, turn it off. This will protect the element if the unit is plugged in (and the switch is on) while in storage.
■Make sure all faucets are closed.
■The unit is winterized.
Note: Consult your owner manuals for unit specific winterizing instructions for icemakers and washing machines.

Now, next spring when it’s time to head out in the RV you won’t have any unpleasant, not to mention costly, surprises waiting for.

For more great winterizing & storing information check out my Winterizing & Storing your RV E-book & my Winterizing & Storing your RV video 

Happy Camping,

Mark J. Polk

RV Education 101

RV University
copyright 2009 by Mark Polk owner of RV Education 101

Winter Battery Storage

I was recently asked a question and felt like the answer could be useful to lots of RVers, so I am using the question as the topic for this article.

Q: Hi Mark, we live in Virginia and are preparing our RV for winter storage. I just had the RV winterized, but I am concerned about how or what to do to properly store my RV batteries. Do you have any advice?

Mark's Answer: The two most common causes for RV battery failure are undercharging and overcharging. Undercharging is a result of batteries being repeatedly discharged and not fully recharged between cycles. If a battery is not recharged the sulfate material that attaches to the discharged portions of the plates begins to harden into crystals. Over time this sulfate cannot be converted back into active plate material and the battery is ruined. This also occurs when a battery remains discharged for an extended period of time, like during storage. Sulfation is the number one cause of battery failure. The second leading cause of battery failure is overcharging. Overcharging batteries results in severe water loss and plate corrosion. With that said let’s look at how to properly store your RV batteries.

Before we talk about storing the batteries we need to talk about battery safety. Lead acid batteries contain sulfuric acid which is extremely corrosive and can cause severe burns or even blindness. And the hydrogen gas that batteries produce when they’re charging is very explosive. When you work around batteries you need to wear goggles and gloves, remove all jewelry and do not smoke or use any open flames.

Caution: If you accidentally get battery acid on your skin, flush it with lots of water and if it gets in your eyes flush with low pressure water for 15 minutes and call a doctor.

When you put the RV in long term storage it’s a good idea to remove the batteries and put them in storage too. This is quite simple to do. The first thing we want to do is visually inspect the batteries for any obvious damage. Any fluid on or around the battery may be an indication that electrolyte is leaking from the battery. A damaged or leaking battery should be replaced immediately. Whenever you remove any battery always remember to remove the negative terminal or cable first, and then the positive cable.

Battery Tip: When you remove a battery turn off the ignition switch, all electrical switches, and any battery disconnect switches before you disconnect the battery cables. Whenever you remove any battery cables label them first so you remember how they go back on the battery. When you reinstall the battery do it in the reverse order. Install the positive cable first and then the negative cable.

Clean the batteries with a 50/50 mixture of baking soda and water if necessary, i.e. use one pound of baking soda to one gallon of water. Now you can check the electrolyte level in each cell and add distilled water if necessary. The minimum level required is at the top of the plates. If it’s below the plates add enough distilled water to cover the plates before you charge the battery.

Test the battery state of charge with a voltmeter or hydrometer and charge any batteries that are at or below 80%. An 80% charge is approximately 12.5 volts for a 12 volt battery and 6.25 volts for a 6 volt battery. Lead sulfation starts when a battery state of charge drops below 80%. After charging the batteries check and fill each cell to 1/8 inch below the fill well with distilled water. Overfilling cells will cause battery acid to overflow.

Caution: Batteries should only be charged in a well ventilated area and keep any sparks and open flames away from a battery being charged. Check the electrolyte levels before and after charging batteries.

A discharged or partially charged battery will freeze much faster than a charged battery. Store the batteries in a cool dry place but not where they could freeze. Batteries in storage will loose a percentage of current through internal leakage. It’s not uncommon for a battery to discharge up to 10% a month when it is being stored. Cold temperatures slow this natural discharge process down and warmer temperatures speed the process up. Test the stored battery state of charge every month and charge batteries that are at or below an 80% state of charge.

Completely charge the batteries before re-installing them next spring. For optimum performance you can equalize the batteries after they are fully charged. An equalizing charge is an increase in charging voltage similar to a bulk charge to convert any crystallized lead sulfate back into its original components.

If you decide to leave the batteries in the RV while it is in storage remember to check the state of charge monthly and charge any batteries at or below an 80% charge. Some RV converter multi-stage chargers and aftermarket chargers are designed to maintain a float charge on the battery without removing the batteries from the RV. Remember, for the converter charger to work the RV will need to be plugged in to electricity.

For more information on RV batteries check out our Deep Cycle Battery Care & Maintenance DVD available at www.rveducation101.com

Happy Camping,

Mark Polk