RV Poll Results (4th Installment)

Every few months I like to post some of our previous RV poll results. I think it makes for some interesting reading. You can see how other RV enthusiasts responded to various RV related topics and it might make you consider an aspect about RVing you haven’t considered in the past. Keep in mind that these RV poll’s are only intended to give me some idea of what our newsletter readers are interested in, how they use their RVs, and of course just for fun.

RV Poll Question: What is your favorite season of the year to use your RV?
RV Poll Response: Spring 8%, Summer 25%, Fall 35%, Winter 3%, Year Round 28%

RV Poll Question: Have you ever had any plumbing lines freeze in your RV?
RV Poll Response: Yes 24%, No 76%

RV Poll Question: Do you treat the fuel system in your RV, or any other gasoline powered equipment, with a fuel preservative while sitting in storage?
RV Poll Response: Yes RV 11%, Yes other equipment 22%, Yes both RV & equipment 34%, No 25%, NA 8%

RV Poll Question: Do you travel in your RV with the propane cylinders, or tank, turned on or turned off?
RV Poll Response: Turned on 73%, Turned off 27%

RV Poll Question: Do you plan to use your RV more in 2011 than you did in 2010?
RV Poll Response: Yes 73%, No 22%, New RV owner in 2011 5%

RV Poll Question: I purchased my first RV from:
RV Poll Response: Dealer 59%, Private owner 35%, Family member 2%, Friend 3%, Given to me 1%

RV Poll Question: Do the passengers in your motorhome wear seatbelts while traveling?
RV Poll Response: All passengers 79%, No passengers 19%, Kids only 3%

RV Poll Question: After winter RV storage, how do you prepare your RV for travel and camping?
RV Poll Response: Do it myself 92%, Pay to have it done 4%, Get in it and go 4%

RV Poll Question: Has your RV ever been broken into?
RV Poll Response: Yes while traveling 1%, Yes while stored 7%, Yes at campground 2%, No never 91%

RV Poll Question: Do you primarily watch TV shows on your television or on your computer?
RV Poll Response: Computer 4%, TV 96%

RV Poll Question: During an RV trip, do you watch television or do you leave the remote at home?
RV Poll Response: Watch some TV on RV trips 74%, Watch a lot of TV on RV trips 13%, Leave remote at home 13%

RV Poll Question: How many e-newsletters do you subscribe to?
RV Poll Response: 1-2 24%, 3-5 43%, 5 or more 33%

RV Poll Question: Are you happy with your current RV, or would you prefer a different type or size?
RV Poll Response: Happy with current RV 70%, Prefer different size or type RV 30%

RV Poll Question: Do you have trouble with RV odors from the holding tanks?
RV Poll Answer: Yes 19%, No 81%

RV Poll Question: How do you adjust tire pressure when traveling by RV?
RV Poll Response: I carry a portable air compressor 70%, Drive to nearest service center with air support 30%

To read more RV poll results visit these links:

Some Interesting RV Poll Results

More Interesting RV Poll Results

RV Poll Results (3rd Installment)

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
RV Education 101
RV University
RV Orientation
Go for the RV Gold
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RV Consumer

More Interesting RV Poll Results

Several months ago I put an article together showing the results of our weekly e-newsletter RV polls. I find it interesting to review these poll results occasionally, and think many other RVers find the poll results of a targeted RV audience interesting too. Of course the outcome of any poll depends on several factors like what type of poll it is, how the questions are presented, who is asking the questions and of course who does and does not participate in the poll.


Our weekly RV poll is not a scientific poll, a political poll or a marketing poll. It is basically used to give me some idea of what our newsletter readers are interested in, how they use their RVs and just for the fun of it.

So, here is a look back at some past polls and how the participants responded.

■ 30% of the participants have experienced problems with rodent control in their RV’s and 70% have not.

■48% have spent a night in a Wal-Mart parking lot and 52% have not. Of those, 58% asked permission to stay in the Wal-Mart parking lot and 42% did not.

■68% connect to the internet every day when traveling by RV and 32% do not. 82% experience trouble getting an internet connection on the road and 16% do not. 58% of the respondents depend on free Wi-Fi to connect, 27% used a wireless card to connect and 15% relied on other methods like paid Wi-Fi, cell phones and satellite service.

■When asked who drove the most 92% responded male, 5% female, 1% female traveling alone and 2% male traveling alone.

■74% said their RV came with a spare tire and 26 % did not get a spare when they purchased their RV.

■84% make campground reservations in advance and 16% do not.

■9% of respondents see closing state parks as a way to decrease state budgets and 91% do not.

■ 55% are currently financing their RV and 45% are not. 51% of those financed think they owe more than the RV is worth and 49% do not think they owe more than the RV is worth.

■85% of participants have an Emergency Roadside Service (ERS) plan and 15% do not.

■18% travel 200 miles or less per day during RV trips, 47% average 300 miles per day, 26% average 400 miles per day and 9% travel 500 or more miles per day.

■54% own motorized RV’s and 46% own towable RV’s.

■94% use rest stops along the way when traveling by RV and 6% do not.

■At one time or another 35% of respondents have had a damaged RV holding tank waste valve and 65% never have. Of those with damaged waste valves 58% repaired it themselves and 42% did not attempt repairs.

■36% use some type of digital line monitor to monitor campground electricity and 65% do not. 40% always test the campground wiring prior to plugging the RV in and 60% do not.

■82% check the tire pressure before each trip and 18% don’t.

■58% use checklists to perform maintenance and routine tasks on their RV and 42% do not.

■12% of the respondents have work camped before and 88% have not.

■90% said they use environmentally friendly holding tank chemicals and 10% don’t.

■63% use their RV in the winter and 37% don’t.

■70% have stayed in a friends or relatives driveway before and 30% have not.

■19% frequently stay at state or federal campgrounds, 34% stay at private campgrounds, 5% stay at public campgrounds and 42% stay at a combination of all three.

■67% use a pre-departure checklist when they RV and 33% don’t.

■98% have one or more slide outs on their RV and 2% don’t have any slide outs.

Well that brings us up to date on the poll results. When we gather more results I will keep you posted.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
RV Education 101
RV University
RV Orientation
Go for the RV Gold
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RV Consumer

Cold Weather RVing

There are lots of things to do and see in the wintertime; beautiful winter scenery, snow skiing, hunting, riding snowmobiles and much more. It’s no wonder so many people enjoy using their RV’s year round. When winter approaches each year I get numerous e-mails requesting information about using RV’s in cold temperatures. One reason I haven’t written on this subject in the past is because it would require more than just a short article to thoroughly cover this topic. Another reason for not writing about this in the past is that there are no guarantees that your RV can or will be 100% protected from the harsh winter elements by following written advice on the subject.

What I can do is offer you some suggestions and ideas that will help to protect your RV if you plan to use it during the cold winter months. I just can’t guarantee that it will be 100% protected. These suggestions and ideas are for short term winter camping in your RV. If you plan to take extended RV trips in cold weather there are many other precautions and measures that need to be considered, like using insulated skirting around the bottom of the RV for example.

Note: What we will be concentrating on in this article is how to protect your RV during cold weather camping. It is extremely important that you also understand how to protect yourself and other campers in cold temperatures.

One of the first considerations for cold weather RVing is if you will be traveling in temperatures below freezing. If this is the case, and there is water in the RV water system, your plumbing lines or water heater tank could freeze, resulting in costly repair bills, not to mention ruining your winter wonderland RV trip. To avoid this from happening I travel with the water system winterized. It is actually much easier to winterize an RV than most people think it is, and it’s not very expensive either. I have winterized and de-winterized our RV as many as four times in one winter.

The good news is it is still possible to use the bathroom facilities when you are traveling with the RV winterized. We take one gallon jugs filled with water to use in the toilet, and if your holding tanks are not heated you can put some RV antifreeze in the holding tanks to prevent the contents from freezing. Add the RV antifreeze (1-2 gallons) through the toilet for the black water holding tank and down the shower or tub drain for the gray water tank. The antifreeze will also protect the shower or tub P-trap which is usually located below floor level. The amount of antifreeze required for the holding tanks will be based on the size of the tanks, and it will be necessary to add more RV antifreeze as waste water is added to the tanks to prevent the antifreeze from being diluted.

Don’t allow the holding tanks to fill completely, before emptying them, during cold weather camping. This will reduce the chance of freezing, resulting in damage to the holding tanks. Take bottled water along for drinking and other needs like cooking, washing up and brushing your teeth when the RV is winterized. We have a five gallon jug that we always take on trips, filled with tap water from our house, for our pet’s drinking water and our other needs. This comes in handy when the RV is winterized.

When we arrive at our destination I try to select a site that will be exposed to the sun throughout the day, but also where there is some type of wind break available. Position the RV on the site so the front or rear will be facing the brunt of any wind, not the side of the RV. If there is an electrical hook-up I de-winterize the water system so we can use everything. All of the water lines in our motorhome are in a heated space, so we don’t need to be too concerned about the water system freezing as long as the RV has heat. We leave the water heater turned on whenever the water heater tank is full so there is no chance of it freezing. Some water heaters operate off of LP gas and electricity. Keep in mind if it’s in the electric mode it will use 9 to 13 amps.

It’s important that you know where all of the plumbing on your RV is located. Some RVs have heat ducts going to the basement storage areas where the water system is exposed to outside temperatures, but many RVs do not. If portions of the RV water system are below floor level, in areas that are not heated, it is possible for it to freeze and damage the water lines. If you are hooked up to an external water supply one option is to leave a faucet in the RV dripping, to keep the water moving, and decrease the possibility of water lines freezing. Another option is to use heat tape to protect the exposed water lines. Heat tape can be purchased at most hardware or building supply stores. Make sure it is suitable for the types of water lines in your RV, and if you plan to use it on a water hose.

If it is extremely cold outside and the possibility exists that the outside water supply could freeze, or if the campground water supply is shut off for the winter, I fill our fresh water holding tank and use it for all of our water requirements. Again, keep in mind where your fresh water tank is located; ours is in a heated area. If the campgrounds shower facilities are still open it’s a good idea to use them to avoid the gray water holding tank from filling so quickly. In this situation it might be in your best interest to keep the RV winterized and just use the campgrounds facilities.

The best source for heat is to use the RVs forced air furnace. There are a couple of things you need to be aware of when you use the RV furnace. First of all it will consume more LP gas than any of the other LP gas fired appliances. The LP tank or cylinders should be full before leaving on your trip, and you will need to monitor the LP gas supply carefully during your stay. Second, if you are not plugged into an electrical supply the furnace fan can quickly drain the auxiliary battery(s). Batteries that are not fully charged in cold temperatures can freeze resulting in not being able to use the RV furnace. I recommend that you plan your stay where you have access to an electrical supply when camping in cold weather. When we are plugged into electricity we set the forced air furnace on a low setting, around 60 degrees, and supplement the heat with thermostatically controlled ceramic heaters. These heaters work extremely well and you don’t need to be concerned about a fire or carbon monoxide.

Caution: Carbon monoxide is deadly. You cannot see it, taste it or smell it. Never use your range burners or oven as a source of heat. If your RV is not equipped with a carbon monoxide detector you should purchase a battery operated model designed for use in RV’s. Always test the carbon monoxide detector for proper operation before each trip.

You also need to be aware of the symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning:

* Dizziness
* Vomiting
* Nausea
* Muscular twitching
* Intense headache
* Throbbing in the temples
* Weakness and sleepiness
* Inability to think coherently

If you or anybody else experiences any of these symptoms get to fresh air immediately and if the symptoms persist seek medical attention. Information on carbon monoxide poisoning.

If you will be camping where you don’t have access to an electrical hook-up one option is to use a generator. A generator can keep the RV batteries topped off and allow you to use the RV furnace. You will need to have a sufficient supply of fuel on hand for the generator. If it’s a portable generator make sure the exhaust is directed away from the area where you are camping. Regardless of the type of generator always make sure the exhaust system is in proper operating condition and the carbon monoxide detector is working properly.

Here are a few more cold weather RV tips in no particular order:

* Do not store any water hoses with water in them. If you need to use it, it will probably be frozen. You can take it inside to thaw out if need be, or use a hair dryer.

* Covering the windows with curtains, drapes or almost anything will help to hold some of the heat in. It helps to cover overhead vent openings too.

* It may be necessary to take military type showers to keep from filling the gray water tank so quickly. Heat up some water, take the water and a tall glass and enjoy your shower.

* Leave cabinets or drawers open where water lines are located to allow heat to circulate around plumbing.

* Try to avoid opening the entry door as much as possible.

* Oh and don’t forget the electric blanket. It can be a lifesaver at night.

* If you haven’t purchased your RV yet and you know you will be using an RV in cold weather see if the manufacturer offers an arctic package option when you buy it. Some packages include higher R-factor insulation values, enclosed underbelly, heated holding tanks, dual pane windows and more.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
RV Education 101
RV University
RV Orientation
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Buying Tires for a Tow Vehicle

Over the years we have owned five RV’s. First there was a small pop up, then a travel trailer, then a bigger travel trailer, a Type C motorhome and currently our Type A motorhome. I have always owned and driven a truck that is capable of towing a good size trailer. I don’t tow trailers as much as I used to, but just the nature of my business requires that I have a truck that can tow a trailer.


During a routine inspection of my truck I noticed the sidewalls of the tires had some cracking caused by too much exposure to the sun, and that the tread was just about down to the tread wear indicators. These were the original Michelin tires that came on the truck when it was new, and with over 65,000 miles on them I really can’t complain about replacing the tires.

When you are replacing the tires on a truck used for towing or hauling heavy loads an important consideration is the load range or rating of the tires. For light truck tires the load range lets you know the strength of the tire and the tires ability to hold air pressure. When I was growing up tire manufacturers referred to how many plies the tire had (the number of layers) to determine the load rating of the tire. The higher the ply rating the stronger the tire was and the more air pressure it could hold to support a heavier load. Nowadays they use an alphabetical rating to specify the load range of a light truck tire. The tire load ranges today don’t actually count the number of plies or layers in the tire, but the strength of the tire is comparable to the older ply ratings used years ago.

An easy way to compare today’s tire load ranges to the old ply rating system is to take the alphabetical load range designation of the tire and determine what number it is in the alphabet. For example if it is a D load range tire D is the fourth letter in the alphabet. Now multiply that by 2, so a D load range tire is equivalent in strength to an 8 ply tire. I have E load range tires, equivalent to a 10 ply tire, on my truck. The other important consideration is that the tires are inflated properly for the load they are carrying.

I personally like and use Michelin tires on my vehicles. I did some preliminary research on the Internet to see if there were any current sales for the type and size tires that were on my truck. Michelin was offering a $70.00 discount when you purchase four tires. I went to Sam’s Club to get the tires, but was told they were not in stock. The Sam’s Club employee told me they could order the tires and have them there in about three days.

I decided to try Sears first to see if the tires were in stock. The tire representative at Sears said they had the tires, but I noticed they were several dollars more than the price per tire that I got at Sam’s Club. I was told they would price match so I proceeded to ask about the $70.00 Michelin discount. The sales rep asked his manager and he agreed to give me the discount. When the sales rep totaled the sale it came to over $200 more than the Sam’s Club total figure for the same tires. I asked him how there could be that much difference for tires that are priced the same. When I looked at the printout I noticed it included a front end alignment and a road hazard insurance plan along with the new tires. I told the rep I wasn’t interested in a road hazard tire plan, and that there was nothing wrong with the front end alignment on my truck. He said the only way they would sell and warrant the tires was if they included the front end alignment. At this point I was a bit irate and told him to drop the tire alignment and road hazard plan and give me a new price. Then he said the $70 Michelin discount was based on the original price I was quoted and I would not get the discount on a new price quote. Needless to say I left and will probably never return to Sears, at least not to purchase tires.

When I returned home I found the same tires online and ended up saving about $20 per tire, after the shipping charges. When the tires get here I just need to have them mounted and balanced and I’ll be good to go for another 65,000 miles.

I always like to support our local economy, but when you have to deal with tires not in stock and higher prices for services you don’t want and/or need I will take my business elsewhere.

Keep in mind when you purchase tires for a truck that will be towing or hauling heavy loads you need to get tires that are rated for the load you will be hauling and properly inflate the tires for the load. If you doubt what the tire sales rep is telling you check the tire manufacturer load & inflation tables before purchasing the tires. If you question the price of the tires leave! You can always find them somewhere else at a fair price.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
RV Education 101
RV University
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Daily Preventive Maintenance Travel Checks

We took a five week long RV trip, traversing the country from east to west and back again. Something I noticed that surprised me is the majority of RVers I saw at the campground did not take a minute or two to check the fluid levels in their RV or tow vehicle after arriving at the campground, or before leaving on the next days journey. I’m sure some people did check their vehicle over and I just didn’t see it, but what I am saying is that out of all the campgrounds we stayed I saw very few people with the hood up checking fluid levels.


Now I’ll be the first one to admit when I am on a shorter trip, say 1,000 miles or less, I don’t usually check the fluid levels or tire pressure every day before traveling. But, when we are driving at elevations of 7,000 feet plus I think it’s important to check a few things before leaving each day. Driving through mountainous terrain in hot temperatures can be hard on the engine, transmission and tires.

At a minimum I like to make the following Preventive Maintenance checks before each travel day.

1) Check the tow vehicle or motorhome fluid levels. This includes engine oil, transmission fluid, power steering, coolant level and windshield washer fluid level. Adjust all fluid levels according to owner manual instructions.

2) Check the gGenerator oil and generator exhaust system. When it’s hot outside we usually run the generator when we are traveling so we can use the roof air conditioner and other electrical devices. Caution: Do not use the generator if there is any damage to the exhaust system.

3) Tire pressure. I use a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) so I can monitor the tire pressure and tire temperature while traveling. If you don’t use a TPMS you should check the tire pressure periodically.

4) Hitch work, lights and brakes on the towed trailer or towed vehicle.

5) Check for any leaks. Look under the vehicle for any evidence of leaks. Have any leaks checked out and repaired before leaving.

Keep in mind that this list does not replace any pre-trip checks that you might make before traveling each day. It is simply a short list of some daily preventive maintenance items you can make to help prevent potential problems from occurring.

Our bestselling Checklists for RVers e-book has over 90 pages of checklists on all aspects of RVing.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
RV Education 101
RV University
RV Orientation
Go for the RV Gold
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Backing a Trailer, Unassisted

In my last post I discussed a method for backing a trailer when there are two people working together. This is what I refer to as the assisted method. There was a request for more information on backing a trailer when you are by yourself, or what I refer to as the unassisted method. Keep in mind the assisted technique is the preferred method because it is safer and easier to do. But you need to be prepared in the event that you have to back a trailer without assistance.


If the backing maneuver is more than just backing in a straight line, and a turn is required, try to always back from the left side (drivers side). Backing from the left will allow you a better view of where the trailer is going. Backing from the right side (passengers side) is your blind side and it is nearly impossible to tell where the trailer is going.

Backing a trailer kind of goes against our natural instincts; what I mean is when you turn the wheel left you expect the vehicle to go left. When you’re backing a trailer if you turn the wheel left the trailer goes to the right. Fortunately there is a way to back a trailer, unassisted, without having to work against our natural instincts. This may sound a bit confusing at first, but if you think about it, it makes sense and the good thing is it works.

It is extremely important that you inspect the area behind and around where you will be backing. Look for any obstacles that may be in the way to include low hanging tree branches, picnic tables and utility hook-ups. You need to stop occasionally and inspect the area immediately behind the trailer. Caution: If children are present in the area ask somebody to watch behind the trailer while you back in.

It is a good idea to place some orange traffic cones along the path you want the trailer to follow, when you’re backing. If you decide it’s not necessary to mark a path you do need to place some type of object in your view where you want the back of the trailer to stop at.

In the assisted method we kept our hand on the top of the steering wheel and did exactly what the spotter told us to do. In the unassisted method we place our hand on the bottom of the steering wheel in the center. Now if you want the back of the trailer to go to your left you slowly turn the wheel to your left as you back. To go to your right slowly turn the wheel to your right as you back. By placing your hand at the bottom of the steering wheel you don’t have to confuse yourself with turning it in the opposite direction. Remember the two biggest mistakes are turning the steering wheel too much and holding it in the turned position too long. If either of these mistakes happen it may be necessary to pull forward and start over.

It may also be necessary to stop, get out and check your progress, especially if you’re backing from the right (your blind side). Another important aspect of backing a trailer is to learn when to begin turning the wheel in the opposite direction to put the trailer and tow vehicle back on a straight course. This requires practice, for some people, not so much; for others quite a bit. Take your trailer to a large open area where you can practice and before long you’ll be backing in at the campground like a seasoned veteran.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
RV Education 101
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Trailer Backing Technique

For many RVers, the thought of backing a trailer into the campsite can make your palms start to sweat and your stress level go off the chart. When I worked for an RV dealership we were constantly rearranging the sales lot, moving and backing trailers. When we set-up RV shows, in an effort to use all available space, we would back units within inches of walls, RVs and other obstacles.

The technique we used for backing trailers was almost fool proof, when there were two people working together. If you have trouble backing your trailer or pop-up try this. First decide who will drive and who will spot and give directions. Let’s say your wife is driving. For this technique to work, you are her eyes, and she needs to do exactly what you tell her to do. This, of course, also means if there is an accident it’s your fault!

First conduct a thorough inspection behind the trailer where you will be backing. Always watch for children and pets. (If children are in the area ask somebody to watch the back of the trailer) When you are ready to back it in, you stand off to the side, in front of the vehicle where you can see the trailer and communicate with your wife. With the window down and the radio off, she puts her hand on the top of the steering wheel and slowly turns the wheel in the direction you tell her. If you want the back of the trailer to go to your right you tell her to slowly turn the steering wheel to her right. If you want the back of the trailer to go to your left tell her to slowly turn the steering wheel to her left. You can stop whenever necessary to check the opposite side of the trailer and behind the trailer.

The key to driving is slowly turning and backing in the direction the spotter tells you to. The two biggest mistakes made are turning the steering wheel too much and holding it in the turned position too long. If either of these mistakes occurs it will require greater correction to get straightened out, and if you continue backing while holding the wheel in that position for too long the tow vehicle and trailer can jackknife.

Don’t get upset if you need to pull forward and start over. With a little practice you’ll soon be backing like the pros, practice being the keyword. The more you practice the better you’ll get.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
RV Education 101
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Optimum Trailer Braking

If there is one phrase I advocate it would be “you get what you pay for”. This phrase always holds true, regardless of what you are purchasing. If you are going to buy a product intended to perform a specific job it only makes sense to pay a little extra and get one that does the job flawlessly.


Let’s apply “you get what you pay for” to an important topic like towing a trailer. For the sake of an example let’s say you (the RV consumer) purchase a 6,000 pound travel trailer to tow behind your ½ ton truck. The brakes on the truck are designed to stop the truck, but not an additional 6,000 pounds behind the truck. You are aware that you need to purchase an electronic trailer brake controller to supply power from the tow vehicle to the trailer’s electric brakes. You soon discover there are lots of different choices when it comes to electric brake controllers, and they come in a wide price range too. Do you purchase the $50 time based model and hope it works effectively? Stopping a 6,000 pound trailer is not something you should take lightly. It is a safety issue for you, your loved ones and everybody else traveling on the same road as you.

This is where the phrase “you get what you pay for” really matters. You have the choice to purchase a less expensive, very basic, time delayed electric brake controller and save a few bucks, or you can spend more and get a network based controller that plugs into the On Board Diagnostic II (OBD II) connector in the truck cab and gathers data from the tow vehicle to effectively manage the trailer brakes. The less expensive model sends a pre-determined amount of power to the trailer brakes every time you step on the brake pedal. What if the pre-determined amount of power isn’t enough for the current conditions? The more expensive model is a network based controller. This DirecLink network based controller can observe the engine, transmission and vehicle speed and then analyze all of the data to determine the proper level of trailer braking required to safely stop the trailer, based on all of the current conditions. It links with your vehicle’s computer network and uses multiple data parameters in a proprietary way to create amazingly proportional trailer braking. For safety, reliability, performance and longevity there is no question you should go with the better network based controller.

Getting a high quality brake controller is a smart decision, but the only way to achieve optimum braking performance from the controller is to ensure that it is properly installed. If you use scotch-locks to make wire connections, rather than the correct type of sealed wire connectors, the more expensive brake controller might not work any better than the $50 model. The same is true if you use the wrong gauge wire over a certain distance, resulting in a drop in voltage and less efficient braking.

For optimum trailer brakes everything in the brake system must be in good working order.

In addition to proper installation of the network based brake controller it is extremely important that you perform routine maintenance on the remainder of the trailer brake system. This includes but is not limited to a 3,000 mile, or annual inspection of the trailer brake and bearing components. If you don’t feel comfortable performing this type of maintenance yourself you should have an authorized RV service center do it for you.

All too often a trailer sits for periods of time not being used, and in many cases this non-use is for extended periods of time. When it’s time to use the trailer we tend to just hook it up and drive off without really considering what may have gone wrong while it sat in storage. It’s common for a battery to discharge, for tires to be dangerously low on air, and the trailer plug contacts to get dirty and corroded. If the trailer brakes don’t work properly because of a bad contact in the plug, or a tire fails because of under inflation it puts us and others in harm’s way.

To help prevent these types of things from happening I want to include a simple pre-trip trailer checklist you can follow to make sure your trailer is ready to hit the road.

After properly hitching the trailer (i.e. WDH adjustments, sway control, safety chains) to the vehicle make the following checks:

■Inspect the trailer plug and vehicle receptacle contacts for dirt, debris and corrosion. Clean the plug and contacts as required, ensuring a proper connection. Plug the cord in and test all of the trailer lights.

■Connect the trailer break-away lanyard to a secure connection on the tow vehicle.

■Test the operation of the trailer brakes. Remove any wheel chocks. Pull the trailer forward slightly and press the brake pedal to verify the trailer brakes are engaging. Test the brake controller manual override for proper operation.

■Check all tires for abnormal wear and any weather cracking/checking. If any cracks in the tire sidewalls are deeper than 1/32” have the tire inspected by a professional before towing the trailer.

■Check and adjust tire pressure in accordance with the federal certification label on the trailer or using the tire manufacturer load and inflation tables.

■Check the condition of the battery. Check the water level in each cell and add distilled water as required. Check the battery state of charge with a multimeter or battery hydrometer. If you don’t feel comfortable working on or around lead acid battery’s have battery maintenance performed by an authorized service center.

■Every 3,000 miles, or annually, schedule a trailer brake and wheel bearing inspection.

For more great checklists check out our bestselling Checklists for RVers e-book with over 90 pages of checklists on all aspects of RVing.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
RV Education 101
RV University
RV Orientation
Follow us on FACEBOOK