Why Replace your Automobile Antifreeze?

Normally I would be discussing RV antifreeze used to protect the water system in your RV or boat from freezing, but today I want to talk briefly about automotive antifreeze. If I were the CEO of an automotive antifreeze company my entire focus would be on the need to regularly flush the coolant system and add new antifreeze to the vehicle cooling system.

I would do this for two reasons.

1) From a business standpoint I would do it to increase revenue. The average consumer doesn’t relate changing antifreeze in their vehicles like they relate to changing the engine oil on a regular basis. If they were educated on the benefits of changing the antifreeze in their vehicles my company profits would soar.

That brings me to reason number two.

2) The coolant system of any vehicle performs a very important job; to prevent the heat producing engine from overheating and quite possibly seizing up. When you don’t flush and replace the antifreeze periodically rust, scale and corrosion can build up in the radiator and engine coolant passages, and eventually result in an overheated engine.

Let’s talk a minute about what a vehicle coolant system is intended to do. First of all, if an engine did not have methods for transferring the heat that is produced through combustion and friction the hot metal parts would melt down and seize up. Heat that the engine produces is basically removed through the exhaust system and through the cooling system. All heat producing sections of an internal combustion engine need to be cooled, including the combustion chamber, heads, cylinder walls and the engine block itself. The way this is done is by circulating coolant around these heat producing areas of the engine. The coolant picks the heat up and releases much of it as it circulates through the vehicles radiator.

Water does a good job helping to cool an engine but it has some drawbacks. Most importantly it freezes quickly during cold winter temperatures. Water can also cause certain metals to rust and corrode over time. This is why the water in a vehicle cooling system is mixed with what we refer to as antifreeze. Glycol antifreeze does several things to help your engine:

1) It helps to lower the freezing point of water.

2) The corrosion inhibitors that are added help prevent scale and rust build-up in the cooling system.

3) It provides protection against boiling in the hot summer months.

4) Antifreeze helps keep the engine operating at its most efficient temperature regardless of operating conditions and outside temperatures.


When we don’t flush and replace the antifreeze at recommended intervals these chemicals start to break down and cannot perform the job as effectively as new antifreeze can. Just like used engine oil breaks down and needs to be replaced for maximum lubrication and cooling performance.

How many of you have ever witnessed a vehicle sitting along the side of a road with steam billowing out of the engine compartment from overheating? I cannot count the number of times I have seen this. Many times the cause is due to the failure of a part within the cooling system. If a radiator hose, heater hose, water pump, thermostat or fan belt fails the result is an overheated engine. Or, if the coolant system hasn’t been flushed and the antifreeze replaced for several years the result is an overheated engine. The bottom line is periodic inspections of the cooling system components, and flushing and replacing antifreeze at recommended intervals will add years of life to the vehicles engine and prevent untimely breakdowns.

Keep in mind that glycol antifreeze is poisonous to humans and pets and that it needs to be disposed of properly. You should follow the guidelines in your vehicle owner’s manual for flushing and replacing antifreeze and make sure you are using the proper type of antifreeze recommended for your particular vehicle.

Remember, getting here is supposed to be half the fun! Add the vehicle cooling system to your pre-trip inspection if you don’t already include it.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
RV Education 101

RV Online Training

RV Education 101 releases more online training programs

HARRELLS, N.C. -- RV Education 101, a video and RV consumer information company, recently launched a third online RV training program designed to provide the RV consumer with the RV training they want, when they want it.

The latest online RV training program is titled RV Videos on Demand and can be seen at http://www.rvvideosondemand.com/.

Mark Polk, video producer and founder of the long standing RV Education 101 instructional video series, explained it like this, “We understand that the RV consumer wants information on a specific RV topic and that they want it now. That is the concept behind our latest online RV training program.

"We offer the RV consumer short online e-courses, usually about 10 minutes in length, on specific topics at a very affordable price," said Polk. "Pricing for the online e-courses ranges from $4.99 to $9.99, which is really nothing if it saves the consumer from replacing a battery or tires due to lack of maintenance or a lack of understanding.”

Harness the power of online video

This is the third online RV training program RV Education 101 has developed and implemented this year. "The power of online video is a great medium for disseminating information to the RV consumer," said Polk. "When you combine online video technology with the need for repetitive viewing for long term memory retention, and the consumers desire to access the information instantly it's easy to see why this is the most effective training method available today.”

In addition to “RV Videos on Demand,” RV Education 101 currently offers the RV consumer and RV dealers the following online training programs:

The “RV Orientation” online training program, which can be seen at http://www.rvorientation.com/. This program consists of more than 60 minutes of video training, along with bonus training material including RV tips, RV articles, RV crossword puzzles and more. The video training is generic, covering both motorized and towable RV information, and is similar to the walk-through class a dealer gives a customer prior to taking delivery of the unit.
The “Go for the RV Gold” online training program, which can be seen at http://www.goforthervgold.com/. This program is a 12-week, self-paced Internet-based RV training program where RVers can learn everything about your RV in the comfort of their own home, without having to travel anywhere. The training program consists of three separate monthly RV training modules, the RV Bronze module, the RV Silver module and the RV Gold module. Because the program is self-paced you can complete an entire RV training module in one week or one month. Upon successful completion of the program and a final exam the member receives a certificate of completion.
“RV education 101 is proud to offer RV consumers and RV dealers these comprehensive online RV training programs to assist in educating RV owners on properly using and maintaining their RV," said Dawn Polk, co-owner and marketing director.

For more information, call 910.484.7615 or e-mail dawn@rveducation101.com.



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Top 10 List Before Buying your RV

Another great camping season is just around the corner. For those of you in the market for an RV I would like to offer my top 10 tips to help you make better informed RV buying decisions.

1) If you’re not absolutely sure an RV is right for you try renting one before you buy.

Rule number one for owning an RV is you have to use it. It can be difficult to determine if an RV is right for you if you have never used one. Plan a weekend or week-long trip and rent an RV to try it out first. Renting an RV can be a good indicator to gauge if an RV is in your future. But I caution you, once you get the RV bug it’s hard to get rid of. Don't confuse not liking an RV with not understanding how to use the RV. Prior to renting an RV I recommend you purchase a RV training video on the type RV you plan to rent so you can thoroughly enjoy the rental experience.

2) Know which type of RV is right for you and your family before you buy.

RV’s come in numerous types, sizes and price ranges. Know which type of RV is right for you and your family and what price fits your budget. Take the time to research your specific needs, and how you plan to use the RV. If you plan to travel cross-country in the RV a motorized RV might make more sense than a towable RV. If you plan to go camping in the backwoods, off the beaten trail, a pop up or truck camper would probably make more sense. To learn more about the different types of RV's take a minute to visit http://www.rvconsumer.com/

3) New Vs. Used?

This is a major consideration to give some thought to before you purchase an RV. To assist you with making this decision consider how you plan to use the RV and what your budget is. If you only plan to take a couple of weekend trips, or use it for one week out of the year, a used RV might be best for you. And, it won’t do you any good to own an RV if there isn’t enough money left in the budget to enjoy it.

4) If you buy a towable RV make sure you have a tow vehicle that can safely tow it.

You might find your dream RV only to discover your tow vehicle can’t tow it. If you already own the vehicle you plan to tow with determine how much it can safely tow and shop for an RV based on that information. If you plan to buy a tow vehicle select the travel trailer or fifth wheel trailer first, then buy a vehicle that can safely tow it. RV dealerships should have trained personnel to assist you with matching the tow vehicle and trailer. Check out our "Trailer Towing DVD" or our "Tow your 5th Wheel Like a Pro DVD" before you purchase your travel trailer or 5th wheel.

5) If you plan to purchase a motorized RV drive it before you buy it.

Driving a motorhome for the first time can be a little intimidating, but it’s important that you test drive it before you buy it. You want a motorhome that you feel comfortable driving because you will spend a lot of time behind the wheel. Check out all of the controls, the view, mirrors and make sure it performs the way you expect it to. To learn more about dring an RV check out our "Drive your Motorhome Like a Pro DVD"

6) Do your research

Buying an RV is a major investment, similar to an automobile or your home. You need to do your research before you buy. There are lots of RV manufacturers and RV brands to choose from. You want an RV dealer and a manufacturer that will stand behind the product after the sale. You can research manufacturers on the internet, request brochures, take factory tours and attend local RV shows to learn more about all of the options you have.

7) Buy from a reputable RV dealership

A reputable RV dealership will have a professional sales, parts and service staff. This is an important consideration during and after the purchase of your RV. It’s important that you select the right type of RV, floorplan and brand for you and your family, and that there are qualified technicians to service the unit after the sale. A reputable RV dealership can make your RV ownership experiences much more pleasurable.

8) Protecting your investment

When you purchase your RV consider some other factors that will help protect your investment. I recommend looking into some type of extended service contract that goes beyond the manufacturer warranty period. There are numerous plans available, so shop around for the best deal. Get specialized RV insurance coverage. It’s different from your home and auto policy. When you need specialized coverage you’ll be glad you have it.

9) Now that you own it, where can you use it?

The Recreation Vehicle Industry Association, RVIA states that there are approximately 8,500 RV parks and campgrounds located near national parks and forests, popular tourist attractions, along interstates and in cities and small towns. With the Internet you have instant access to most of these public and private campgrounds, RV Parks and RV Resorts. Other good resources are travel guides, magazines, campground directories and state tourism boards to help plan your next RV trip.

10) Back to rule number 1

I mentioned earlier if you own an RV you need to use it, otherwise it’s just a large lawn ornament. So, pack up the RV, the kids and the pets and head out to explore this wonderful country we live in and build some lasting memories with family and friends.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
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Buying an RV, New Versus Used

The cost of the RV and how much you can afford to pay each month are important factors when deciding between a new or used RV, but there are several other factors to consider too. If you are only going to use the RV two weeks out of the year, a used RV might be your best decision. On the other hand, if you are planning on going fulltiming or traveling cross-country, a new RV with a full warranty would be a more logical choice.

Speaking of warranty, if you do decide a used RV is your best choice, check to see if there is any type of warranty available. If you buy a used RV from a private owner it is normally “AS IS” with no warranty. This is true with many RV dealers too. Replacing an RV refrigerator or other major appliance can be very costly. Most RV dealers will offer an extended service plan or contract if the used RV meets the service plan criteria. You can also purchase these plans from RV clubs and reputable websites on the Internet. The age of the unit will factor into the cost of the plan but you should be able to negotiate with the dealer concerning a service plan. Make sure you read all of the fine print and understand exactly what is covered and what is not covered in any type of service plan or contract you purchase. Many times service plans offer different levels of coverage based on the cost of the plan. You also want to make sure that other RV dealers and repair facilities will honor the service plan you purchase. It won’t do you any good if you need repairs while you’re traveling and nobody will honor the plan.

Another factor to consider between buying new or used is how long you plan to keep the RV. What I mean by this is if you buy an RV with the thought in mind that as soon as you get your next pay raise you’re going to upgrade to a larger RV, it would be best to consider buying used. RV’s depreciate, they do not appreciate. If you buy a new RV and trade it or sell it within the first couple of years you will lose a substantial amount of money. In many cases a used RV has already suffered the brunt of the depreciation and you don’t stand to lose as much if you trade or sell it sooner. This of course will depend on how much you pay for the used RV.

Most RV dealers use the NADA guide for Recreation Vehicles to determine used RV pricing, www.nada.com Used RV prices are based on the age of the unit, the condition, options and mileage, if it’s a motorized RV. The NADA guide offers wholesale and retail pricing for used RV’s, and all NADA pricing assumes the RV is in good condition, and proper working order. Ask to see the NADA price for the unit you are considering purchasing, or look it up on the Internet. For accurate figures you will need to know the make, model, year, options and for gasoline motorhomes, the chassis manufacturer and mileage. You wouldn’t pay full Manufacturer Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) for a new RV, so you shouldn’t pay full NADA retail price for a used RV either. Some used RV’s are in more demand than others, but if the used RV is in good condition and everything operates properly a fair price would be somewhere between the NADA wholesale and retail price guidelines.

Another consideration when thinking about purchasing a used RV is the finance terms and interest rates. Because the RV is used, banks offer shorter finance terms and higher interest rates compared to new RV financing.

If you decide to purchase a used RV make sure that all of the systems and appliances operate properly, and that there is no type of hidden damage that can’t easily be seen. Damage caused by water leaks can be hard to detect and extremely costly to repair. If you are not knowledgeable about RV’s you should take someone with you who is, to inspect the unit you are considering purchasing. It may be possible to hire somebody to thoroughly inspect the unit before you buy it. Most RV dealers will give you a walk through orientation of the RV and demonstrate that everything is operating properly. I recommend that you purchase an RV training video on the type of RV you are buying and view it prior to the scheduled walk through. You will have a much better understanding of how everything works and you can ask more targeted questions. RV training videos are available at http://www.rveducation101.com/

Be sure to consider the cost, how you plan to use the RV, warranty, and how long you plan to keep the RV when deciding whether to buy new or used.

Some other great sources for more information on buying an RV are my e-books titled “RV Buyer’s Survival Guide” and “The Insider’s Guide to Buying an RV”

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
RV Education 101
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More on Basic RV Electricity

I received quite a few questions and comments on last month’s article, “Basic RV Electricity.” The questions and comments were very good and they addressed some RV electrical concerns I didn’t cover in the article. I thought that everyone could benefit from this information and decided to include it this month.

Question: “What is a deep cycle battery?”

Answer: RVs come equipped with deep cycle batteries for the coach. Most RVs come with a single Group 24 deep cycle battery. Deep cycle batteries are rated in amp/hours. How many amps the battery can deliver for how many hours before the battery is discharged. Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged over and over again and still take a charge. If you enjoy dry camping (without hook-ups) you depend on your deep cycle battery(s) to take care of your 12-volt needs. You can purchase a deep cycle battery with a higher amp/hour capacity that will last longer. The higher the amp/hour capacity is the larger the battery is. If you have room for a larger battery and enjoy dry camping you may want to consider a Group 27 or Group 31 deep cycle battery.

Comment: “You did not cover inverters. I installed one in my motorhome because there are times when you want a little power for the TV or VCR and don’t want to crank the generator.”

Reply: You are absolutely right. Inverters are nice to have at times when you are dry camping and/or when you don’t have access to 120-volts AC. Batteries produce power in Direct Current (DC) that run at low voltages. Power companies and AC generators produce sine wave Alternating Current (AC), which is used to operate 120-volt appliances and electronic equipment. An inverter takes 12-volt DC power from your RV batteries and electronically changes it to 120-volt AC. Some RVers use an inverter just to watch TV or for their personal computer. Other RVers use an inverter to operate microwaves, coffee pots or other larger appliances. When you purchase an inverter the inverter’s output capacity must be capable of operating the loads that will be placed on it.

Inverters have two different capacity ratings. Continuous output rating and surge capacity rating. Continuous output is the maximum wattage the inverter can output for a long time period. Surge capacity is the maximum wattage the inverter can output during initial start up. All appliances require more power when they start, compared to what they use when they are running. They can use as much as two or three times the amount to start then what they use to run, so the starting power required for any appliance that you plan to use with the inverter must be within the surge capacity rating. There are modified sine wave inverters and true sine wave inverters. A true sine wave inverter is more expensive, but they are capable of producing power as good as the power company and all appliances and electronic equipment will run as they are intended to. Keep in mind you are drawing the power from your RV batteries and any power used has to be put back in through some type of effective charging system.

Comment: This is a second comment from the same reader. “You need to tell your reader’s what to do when you only have 15 amps to plug in to, (usually at someone’s home and using the plug on their front porch) and you need the air conditioner.”

Reply: I personally don’t recommend doing this, but I agree that it is possible, like you say to use the A/C if you are plugged in to a 15-amp outlet. If you do, you must exercise caution. When the A/C compressor engages it requires more amps (about 13) than it does once it is running. Because of this you need to turn all appliances off before starting the A/C, to include switching the refrigerator from A/C to LP gas. Once it is running it may be possible to use a small appliance or electronic equipment that operates on low amperage, like a TV, but you need to monitor the voltage to prevent damaging any appliances or electronic equipment.

Comment: This is the third comment from the same reader. “You should also tell your reader’s that if they are using a long extension cord it must be #12 wire or lower, (heavier gauge) to keep the amount of voltage drop from causing problems.”

Reply: You’re right again. If it is possible you should try to avoid using an extension cord when making electrical connections at the campground. The gauges of the wire used in standard household extension cords are not suitable for RV electrical hook-ups. Eventually you will be put in a situation where you will need to use an extension cord. It is a good idea to purchase an RV extension cord that is compatible to the electrical system of your RV, and have it on hand. If you do purchase an extension cord somewhere else I recommend 10-guage wire and use as short of a cord as possible.

Question: “Will it hurt to leave the RV plugged in and the refrigerator on all of the time?”

Answer: I leave my refrigerator on almost all of the time. The RV should be on level ground so the refrigerator operates properly and you will need to monitor it for when it needs to be defrosted. The only other concern with leaving the RV plugged in, not related to the refrigerator, is the coach battery. Whenever the RV is plugged in the coach battery is being charged. It's really just a trickle charge, but over time it can deplete the electrolyte levels in the battery cells. You need to check, or have somebody check the battery at least monthly when the RV is plugged in during storage.

Question: “Is there any danger of damaging your system if you plug a 30-amp system into a 50-amp service using the proper adapter?”

Answer: This is a controversial subject. Some people will argue that if they make an electrical adapter for it than it is safe. Others will argue that it is not safe to use a 50-amp service for a system designed for 30-amps or a 20-amp service for a 30-amp system. Electrical adapters are a necessity for RVers. Eventually you will be in a situation where you have to use some type of electrical adapter to make a connection at a campground. It may be an outdated campground or isolated area that only provides 15 or 20-amp electrical service, or the only site available is a 50-amp service for your 30-amp system. There are adapters that will go from your RV type plug and size down to household type outlets and adapters that go from household type outlets to all types of campground RV connections. It’s nice to have these adapters on hand when you need them, but you must exercise caution and use common sense when you use them. If you have a 30-amp system and you have to use a 50-amp service use your RV electrical system exactly the same way you do when you’re plugged into a 30-amp service. In other words don’t try to run anymore than you normally would. On the other hand if your RV is a 30-amp or 50-amp system and you use an adapter to plug the RV into a 15 or 20-amp outlet you severely limit what you can operate in the RV. In this situation you should only use what appliances or electronic equipment are absolutely necessary. If you place too much of a demand on electrical adapters, or use them for extended periods of time they can overheat and melt resulting in damage to the RV power cord or the electrical system.

Question: “Sometimes the coach battery in our motorhome won’t start the generator and other times it will. My question is why isn’t the RV battery charger keeping my battery charged when I leave it plugged in all the time?”

Answer: The battery charger in the RV converter provides a trickle charge and is only designed to keep the coach battery(s) topped off. It is not designed or capable of recharging a battery that is completely discharged or damaged. The automotive alternator also charges the coach battery when you are driving the RV. I would guess that the alternator is probably charging the battery enough to start the generator sometimes after driving for a while, but the RV battery charger can’t charge it enough to start the generator when it’s plugged in. The constant charging from leaving it plugged in all the time can deplete the electrolyte level in the battery(s) cells. Depending on how often the battery(s) is being charged will determine how often it needs to be checked. You should check the battery(s) at least monthly and if you use the RV on a regular basis and / or you leave it plugged in when you’re not using it you may need to check the battery(s) more often.

I hope these reader’s questions and comments are helpful to you and quite possibly might answer some questions that you had about basic RV electricity.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
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RV Electric 101 - Basic RV Electricity

One of the most common questions and concerns I receive is about the RV electrical system. Most people ask if I can explain the RV electrical system in simple to understand terms. The electrical system in your RV can seem complex and confusing until you have a basic understanding of how it works. Your RV actually has three separate electrical systems. It has a 12-volt DC automotive system, a 12-volt DC coach system, and a 120 volt AC coach system. We are primarily concerned with the 12-volt DC and 120 volt AC coach systems.

The majority of campgrounds you go to will provide you with an external 120 volt electric source to plug into. Your RV has a heavy-duty power cord that is normally about 25 feet long. Depending on the type of RV you have, or purchase, it will either be a 30 Amp or 50 Amp system. When you plug into the proper campground electrical source it will supply power throughout your RV. You must have a 120 Volt AC power source if you are going to use the microwave, roof air conditioner, the refrigerator in the electric mode and the 120 Volt electrical outlets. For the most part everything else in the camper works off of 12-volt DC power. When you are plugged in at the campground a portion of the 120 volt AC current is converted to 12-volt DC current for the items in the RV that work off of 12 volts. Some of these items are the overhead lights, the furnace fan, and the fan over the range, the vent fan in the bathroom, the water pump, LP gas leak detector, stereo, and the refrigerator when it’s in the LP gas mode. If you look at the RV’s power distribution panel you will see circuit breakers like you have in your house for the 120-volt AC side, and automotive style blade fuses for the 12-volt DC side.

If you are not plugged into an external power source you can still use the 12-volt DC system if you have a 12-volt deep cycle marine battery on your unit. As long as the battery or batteries are charged you can use everything in the RV except the microwave, roof air conditioner, the refrigerator in the electric mode and the electrical outlets. If you have a motorhome, or you’re going to purchase a motorhome, it will have a battery for the automotive system and an auxiliary battery for the coach system. The coach battery is charged whenever the motorhome is running; the generator is running, or when it’s plugged into an external electrical source.

Before we go any further I would like to offer a few basic battery maintenance tips to keep your RV batteries in top operating condition.

First of all never work around batteries with an open flame. Vapors from the batteries can ignite, causing serious damage. To prevent the possibility of arcing turn off any 12 Volt power sources and disconnect the negative battery cable before working on or around the batteries. If you have a maintenance free battery you will not be able to perform some of these checks. The color of the eye on the battery will indicate the condition of a maintenance free battery. Consult your owner’s manual for more information on maintenance free batteries.

Constant charging depletes electrolyte levels in batteries. Inspect electrolyte levels and add distilled water as required. Add water until it reaches the split-level marker in each cell. Do not overfill.
Inspect all battery cable and terminal connections. Keep all connections clean and tight. Do not over tighten. When battery terminals are clean and tight on the battery post spray the terminals with a battery terminal protector to prevent corrosion.
To clean the battery itself use a diluted baking soda and water solution. After cleaning the battery flush it thoroughly with water.

Check the state of charge and keep batteries fully charged. Specific gravity readings for a charged battery should be between 1.215 & 1.250. If you remove the batteries for storage charge them to a full charge and check them periodically during storage. Re-charge as necessary. Follow proper charging instructions for the type of battery. Deep cycle batteries require a lower amp charge over a longer period of time.

There are numerous electronic devices and equipment in your RV that can drain the coach battery when you’re not using the RV. Some examples are; the TV antenna booster, the LP gas leak detector, clocks in radios, or just leaving a 12-volt light on by accident. If your RV is not equipped with a battery disconnect switch you can purchase a battery disconnect, from an RV dealer, that can be installed directly on the battery post. When you aren’t using the RV or have no requirement for the coach battery you simply raise a lever and disconnect the battery. A battery disconnect can be installed on the chassis battery too.

Lastly, if you are not comfortable performing the maintenance on your RV batteries have it done by a qualified service center.

Motorhomes also provide an additional source of 120 volt AC power with an onboard power generator. This unique feature offers you the convenience of 120-volt AC power whenever you need it, making the unit fully self-contained. The fuel supply for the generator comes directly from the motor home fuel tank. The system is designed so that when the fuel tank gets to 1/4 tank full the generator will stop running so it doesn’t use all of the fuel in the motor home. Some motor homes have an automatic switch over from an external power supply to the generator. Other motor homes require you to plug the motor home power cord into a generator receptacle on the motor home to use the generator.

I would also like to give you a few tips about RV electricity. To start with a 30 Amp system is the most common on RV’s. The plug on your RV is a large three-prong, heavy duty 30 Amp, 120-volt plug.

Most campgrounds you go to will provide you with a 30 Amp outlet that your RV power cord will plug directly into. If you go to a campground that has a regular house type outlet there are adapters that you can use to go from your RV plug to the house type outlet. When you do this you are plugging into a 15 Amp or 20 Amp power source. This means you will be limited as to what appliances you can run in your RV. It is even possible to damage some appliances if they are not getting the required amperage to operate properly. Let’s say for example you plug into a 15 Amp outlet and you are using a small appliance that is drawing 5 Amps, that leaves you with 10 Amps. Now you turn the roof air conditioner on and when the air conditioner compressor engages it needs about 13 Amps, but it’s not available, and it damages the air conditioner compressor.

Even with a 30 Amp service you need to be selective about what you are using. If you try to use too much the RV will let you know by tripping a breaker in the distribution box and hopefully no harm will be done. There is a short formula that may help you with this. 30 Amps X 120 Volts = 3600 watts. This is the total amount of power you can use before you overload the system. Think of it like this, with 3600 watts you could use 36 one hundred watt light bulbs. When you turn on the 37th light you will probably trip a breaker.

It is also a good idea to take a voltmeter along with you that you can plug right into one of the outlets. Campground electricity varies depending on the demand placed on it. If everybody is running his or her air conditioner the voltage may drop below an acceptable level, and it would be wise to wait until it is restored back to normal. You can glance at the voltmeter every time you walk by it and save yourself untimely and costly repairs to your RV appliances. Voltage below 105 volts or above 135 volts can damage electronic equipment and appliances.

Most appliances will tell you what the required wattage or amperage is to run the appliance. Here is the amperage draw for some common RV appliances and electronics.

•Coffee maker - 8.3 amps

•Converter - 8 amps

•Hair dryer - 9 to 12 amps

•Microwave - 13 amps

•Refrigerator - 2.8 amps

•Roof a/c 13.5 amps

•TV - 1.5 amps

•Toaster - 8 to 10 amps

•VCR - 2 amps

•Electric skillet- 6 to 12 amps

Hopefully this will provide you with a better basic understanding of how your RV electrical system works.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
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Finally a Towing Standard on the Horizon!

What is J2807 and why is it important? If you haven’t heard, SAE J2807 is a standard that will be used to determine the trailer weight rating of all tow vehicles.

I don’t always agree with mandated standards, government or otherwise, but there is one standard looming out there that I am highly in favor of.

That standard is called “Performance Requirements for Determining Tow Vehicle Gross Combination Weight Ratings and Trailer Weight Ratings,” or in shorter terms Society of Engineers (SAE) standard J2807.

I do have to applaud manufacturers for getting behind and supporting a standard for measuring tow ratings for vehicles.

I have always had a problem with vehicle manufacturer published tow ratings, and even more so in the truck wars of recent years. When a ½ truck is rated to tow more than its bigger ¾ ton brothers I start to see red flags popping up everywhere. To bring you up to speed on this topic take a minute to read my first article titled “let’s Talk 1/2 Ton Trucks” that I wrote in 2007, and my follow-up article “2010 Let’s Talk 1/2 ton Trucks” which I wrote a couple of years later.

In my humble opinion the towing truck wars have always been based on bragging rights. My truck can tow more than your truck. And in reality the method for determining those bragging rights was left up to the guy who was doing the bragging.

The reason for some of these unrealistic tow capacities, at least the way I see it, was until now vehicle manufacturers had free reign to test and determine a vehicles tow capacity based on its own criteria. If somebody tells you to perform your own testing and publish the results the tendency is to test in a direction favorable to the design of the said vehicle you are testing. Therefore “my truck can tow more than your truck!”

On the other hand if you test against a specific standard you get results based on that standard, not just on some of the design elements built into the product being tested. In other words you get actual results and there is no bully on the block boasting I can tow more than you can. Now we know the real deal and the consumer wins in the end because you have a standard to compare and measure vehicles against.

This new standard will measure a vehicles towing performance based on several criteria using a standard test trailer. These criteria are:

1) Maintaining speed on a specified grade

2) Timed acceleration on level terrain

3) Timed acceleration up a 12% grade

4) Response to trailer sway

5) Braking characteristics at Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCW)

6) Hitch receiver structure and strength

To give you an example of what occurs when you apply these new standards Toyota put its 2011 Tundra through the paces. The results were towing capacities dropping 400lbs, 500lbs and 1,100lbs for various models of the Tundra, over previously published capacities.

I think it is notable for Toyota to step up to the plate and certify the Tundra against the new standards. It looks as though all of the other manufacturers are going to follow suit for model year 2013, including Chrysler, GM, Ford and Honda, and many trailer and hitch manufacturers as well.

It will be interesting to see what happens to tow capacities when J2807 is implemented across the board. I would venture to say that many other ½ ton tow ratings and Gross Combined Weight Ratings (GCWR) will be lowered, but hey we’ll just have to wait and see.

This J2807standard may not answer all of the questions we have or provide all of the information we want, but it’s long overdue that a standard be established for something as important as determining tow ratings.

Now maybe the consumer will have some reliable information to base a decision on when deciding which vehicle can safely tow the load! It sure beats the “my truck can tow more than your truck” mentality.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
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