Showing posts with label rv education. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rv education. Show all posts

A Fun Vintage Trailer Restoration Project with Mark Polk

What do I consider to be a vintage trailer? Well, when you talk about vintage trailers lots of folks think about trailers that were built in the 30s, 40s or 50s, or they think about a particular brand name like airstream, Spartan or Prairie Schooner. I think any trailer you find today from the 30s through the 60s are classic vintage trailers. When I started to consider a vintage trailer restoration project I wasn’t as concerned about a name or era of time as I was about a finding a trailer with a good foundation at the right price.

I think there are lots of these old vintage trailers sitting around out there that can be found and restored back to a useable condition at a fairly reasonable cost. Find an old trailer that you like the looks of, or one that has some character. If you can find an old trailer with a semi solid structure at the right price and you like the way it looks it can make a fun vintage trailer restoration project. I say go for it, you only go around once, have some fun!

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk



Is your RV an Orphan?

RV 101-
Question:  I’ve been trying to find information about orphan RVs and if they will be supported in some way or another. So far, I’ve come up with nothing concrete. In particular, I’m talking about Fleetwood Discovery, 2006-08 model years.

Marks Answer: An orphan RV is an RV that was built and sold and at some point after the sale the RV manufacturer went out of business , leaving the consumer with no warranty, parts or service network. Unfortunately this happened with lots of RV manufacturers across the country during the recession.

Orphan RV’s have been a problem for lots of RVers as more manufacturers have closed their doors. Fleetwood however will continue to support RV owners in warranty, parts and service. If a person owns a motorized Fleetwood product, built prior to the new Fleetwood ownership, warranty work and service work will be honored at current Fleetwood dealerships.

This isn’t to say they will all be happy to do the work (it’s sad but some dealerships don’t like to work on units they didn’t sell) but they are supposed to work on Fleetwood products. So, its safe to say there is a pretty strong network regardless of where your travels may take you.

One other thought is to consider a good service contract on the unit so it will still be covered after any factory warranty expires. Just do your home work and make sure it is a reputable company with a good network of dealers around the country who will honor the contract.

There are many orphaned RV owners who can’t get any support whatsoever and that is a sad fact, but motorized Fleetwood products do not fall into that category.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk


Polk’s Top 7 Reasons for Using a Tire Pressure Monitoring System

I think most RV owners have heard stories about an RV that had a tire blowout at one time or another. Some of these tire blowout stories are worse than others, and hopefully if you ever experience a tire blowout it will result in little damage and no one will be hurt.


There is more educational material available now on RV tire care and maintenance than ever before. We are instructed to check and inflate our tires to the correct pressure for the load, not to overload the RV, to inspect our tires for signs of damage and/or excessive wear and to replace tires that show any evidence of damage and at regular intervals.

This is all great advice that should be adhered to, but it is impossible to know what kind of damage may have already occurred to the inside of a tire, and you have no way of knowing when the tire might fail. Another consideration is what might be happening to the tires on your tow or towed vehicle as you travel around the country. Several years ago I had a tire blowout on our towed vehicle and barely noticed it until the entire inner fender was destroyed before I could safely pull over and stop.

This brings me to the topic of today’s article, a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS). For many years I traveled in RVs without a TPMS. Looking back now I honestly can’t tell you why I didn’t get and use a TPMS sooner. During the time I didn’t use a TPMS I had one rear tire blowout and was fortunate to be traveling at a lower speed when it happened. Even at a lower speed it caused some damage to our motorhome. It wasn’t until we were planning a long RV trip that I decided it was time to look into a TPMS.

I would like to give you my top 7 reasons for using a TPMS on your RV and tow or towed vehicle tires:

1)Most Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems I researched were easy to install and easy to use.

2)It’s a quick and easy way to check the tire pressure in every tire before traveling each day. The TPMS I use is accurate to within 2.7%. That’s as accurate as many tire gauges.

3)You can monitor both the RV and the towed vehicle tires as you travel. That’s what I call piece of mind!

4)A TPMS has an alarm/warning system to notify you of a potential problem. Knowing when there is a potential problem with a tire can limit damage to the RV and quite possibly save lives.

5)My TPMS monitors tires for a loss in air pressure and for possible overheating too.

6)A TPMS can be cost effective. The cost of a decent TPMS can be equivalent to the price of a new motorhome tire, not to mention the damage a blowout can cause to the RV and/or the towed vehicle.

7)I don’t think I was ever as relaxed traveling in the RV as I am now with the TPMS onboard. Driving is much more enjoyable when you know what the tire pressure is at any given time, and the fact that you will be warned if a problem with the tires exists.

As I researched the topic I discovered many reputable companies offering a TPMS that will work on larger motorhome tires. Based on my particular needs and on what I wanted in a TPMS I decided on the Tire Minder, Model TMG 400C by Minder Research

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
RV Education 101
RV University
RV Orientation
Go for the RV Gold
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RV Consumer

RV 101® - How-To Winterize your RV Water System in 7 Easy Steps

It’s always sad to come to the realization that another camping season is winding down.  Depending on where you live, part of this realization is preparing the RV for winter storage so it will be ready to go camping again next spring.  A major part of winterizing your RV is to protect the RV water system from potential damage, caused by exposure to freezing temperatures.



RV Buzz Tip: Frozen and damaged water lines are in fact the most common problem related to not winterizing your RV, or not properly winterizing your RV.




The RV plumbing system is the most vulnerable system to damage caused by plummeting temperatures. The good news is, it is easy to protect the RV water system from this potential threat.  Here are my top 7 steps to winterizing your RV plumbing system.


Before you get started there are a few items you will need to have. These items can be found in most RV parts stores:
 1) Non-toxic RV/Marine antifreeze. The amount depends on the layout and length of your plumbing lines. Two to three gallons will normally do it.
2) A water heater by-pass kit, if not already installed.
3) A wand to clean out the black water holding tank if the RV doesn’t have a built-in black tank clean-out system.
4) A water pump converter kit, or tubing to connect to the inlet side of the 12-volt water pump.
5) Basic hand tools to remove and install drain plugs.


Note: Be sure to read your RV owner’s manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines. Follow all steps below that apply to your RV.

Step # 1:  If you have any inline water filters remove and bypass before starting. Drain the fresh water holding tank. Drain and flush the gray and black water holding tanks. If the RV doesn’t have a built in tank flushing system clean the black tank out with a tank cleaning wand. Drain the water heater. Open the pressure relief valve and remove the drain plug.


RV Buzz Caution:  Never drain the water heater when it is hot or under pressure. With no water hooked up to the RV and the water pump turned off open a hot water faucet to remove any pressure from the system. Allow the tank time to cool before draining.



Step # 2: Open all hot and cold faucets; don’t forget the toilet valve and outside shower. Locate and open the low point water drain lines. Use the water pump to help force most of the water out of the system, but turn it off as soon as the system is drained to prevent damaging the pump. Recap all drains and close all faucets.

Step # 3: By-pass the water heater. If you do not have a by-pass kit installed the water heater will fill up with RV antifreeze before it goes through the water lines, wasting six or ten gallons of antifreeze.

Step # 4: Install a water pump converter kit, or disconnect the inlet side of the water pump (the line coming from the fresh water holding tank) and connect tubing from the water pump inlet into a one gallon jug of RV antifreeze.

Step # 5: Turn the water pump on and pressurize the system. Starting with the closest faucet to the pump slowly open the hot and then cold valves until the pink colored RV antifreeze appears. Replace the antifreeze container as required. Repeat on all faucets from the closest to the farthest away. Don’t forget the outside shower.

Step # 6: Flush the toilet until antifreeze appears. Pour a cupful of antifreeze down each drain. Pour some RV antifreeze in the toilet and flush into the holding tank to prevent any water in the tank from freezing. If your water heater has an electric heating element, turn it off. This will protect the element if the unit is plugged in while in storage. Make sure all faucets are closed.

Step # 7: Consult your owner manuals for winterizing icemakers and washing machines.

The unit is winterized. Now, next spring when it’s time to head out in the RV you won’t have any unpleasant, not to mention costly, surprises waiting for.

For more information on this topic check out our Winterizing & Storing your RV

Copyright ©️ by Mark Polk
Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
RV Education 101
RV University
RV Orientation
Go for the RV Gold
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RV Consumer

RV Poll Results (4th Installment)

rvconsumersmallnobackground
Every few months I like to post some of our previous RV poll results. I think it makes for some interesting reading. You can see how other RV enthusiasts responded to various RV related topics and it might make you consider an aspect about RVing you haven’t considered in the past. Keep in mind that these RV poll’s are only intended to give me some idea of what our newsletter readers are interested in, how they use their RVs, and of course just for fun.

RV Poll Question: What is your favorite season of the year to use your RV?
RV Poll Response: Spring 8%, Summer 25%, Fall 35%, Winter 3%, Year Round 28%

RV Poll Question: Have you ever had any plumbing lines freeze in your RV?
RV Poll Response: Yes 24%, No 76%

RV Poll Question: Do you treat the fuel system in your RV, or any other gasoline powered equipment, with a fuel preservative while sitting in storage?
RV Poll Response: Yes RV 11%, Yes other equipment 22%, Yes both RV & equipment 34%, No 25%, NA 8%

RV Poll Question: Do you travel in your RV with the propane cylinders, or tank, turned on or turned off?
RV Poll Response: Turned on 73%, Turned off 27%

RV Poll Question: Do you plan to use your RV more in 2011 than you did in 2010?
RV Poll Response: Yes 73%, No 22%, New RV owner in 2011 5%

RV Poll Question: I purchased my first RV from:
RV Poll Response: Dealer 59%, Private owner 35%, Family member 2%, Friend 3%, Given to me 1%

RV Poll Question: Do the passengers in your motorhome wear seatbelts while traveling?
RV Poll Response: All passengers 79%, No passengers 19%, Kids only 3%

RV Poll Question: After winter RV storage, how do you prepare your RV for travel and camping?
RV Poll Response: Do it myself 92%, Pay to have it done 4%, Get in it and go 4%

RV Poll Question: Has your RV ever been broken into?
RV Poll Response: Yes while traveling 1%, Yes while stored 7%, Yes at campground 2%, No never 91%

RV Poll Question: Do you primarily watch TV shows on your television or on your computer?
RV Poll Response: Computer 4%, TV 96%

RV Poll Question: During an RV trip, do you watch television or do you leave the remote at home?
RV Poll Response: Watch some TV on RV trips 74%, Watch a lot of TV on RV trips 13%, Leave remote at home 13%

RV Poll Question: How many e-newsletters do you subscribe to?
RV Poll Response: 1-2 24%, 3-5 43%, 5 or more 33%

RV Poll Question: Are you happy with your current RV, or would you prefer a different type or size?
RV Poll Response: Happy with current RV 70%, Prefer different size or type RV 30%

RV Poll Question: Do you have trouble with RV odors from the holding tanks?
RV Poll Answer: Yes 19%, No 81%

RV Poll Question: How do you adjust tire pressure when traveling by RV?
RV Poll Response: I carry a portable air compressor 70%, Drive to nearest service center with air support 30%

To read more RV poll results visit these links:

Some Interesting RV Poll Results

More Interesting RV Poll Results

RV Poll Results (3rd Installment)

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
RV Education 101
RV University
RV Orientation
Go for the RV Gold
Follow us on FACEBOOK
RV Consumer

RV Poll Results (3rd Installment)

It’s always interesting and fun to look back at some of our past RV polls to see how folks responded to the questions.

Keep in mind that the outcome of any poll depends on several factors like; what type of poll it is, how the questions are worded, who is asking the questions and of course who does and does not participate in the poll. Our weekly RV poll is not a scientific poll, a political poll or a marketing poll. It is basically used to give me some idea of what our newsletter readers are interested in, how they use their RVs, and of course just for fun.

Here are the latest RV poll results:

Poll Question: Do you use the shower at the campground bath-house more than the shower in your RV?
Poll Response: 41% answered yes and 59% answered no.

Poll Question: Do you RV during the fall and winter months?
Poll Response: 84% do and 16% do not.

Poll Question: Do you winterize your RV, or do you have an RV dealer winterize it for you?
Poll Response: 88% winterize their own RV and 12% do not.

Poll Question: Do you take bottled water with you when RVing, or do you filter your drinking water?
Poll Response: 32% take bottled water, 15% filter their water and 53% do both.

Poll Question: Do you store your RV on your property or at a storage facility?
Poll Response: 70% store it on their property and 30% store it at a storage facility.

Poll Question: Do you RV with pets?
Poll Response: 91% do and 9% do not.

Poll Question: How often do you wash your RV?
Poll Response: 29% after each trip, 7% before putting in storage, 3% never and 61% as needed

Poll Question: Do you pack most of your food before leaving on a trip or buy your groceries when you arrive at your destination?
Poll Response: 72% pack most food before leaving and 28% buy food when they get there.

Poll Question: Have you ever weighed your RV?
Poll Response: 36% have and 64% have not.

Poll Question: How many years has your RV battery(s) lasted? (1 to 2, 2 to 3, 4 or more)
Poll Response: 15% 1 to 2 years, 39% 2 to 3 years and 46% 4 0r more years.

Poll Question: Do you perform your own routine maintenance on your RV?
Poll Response: 78% yes and 22% no.

Poll Question: Have you ever cleaned your RV roof?
Poll Results: 84% have and 16% have not.

Poll Question: Have you ever dry-camped in your RV? (camping without hookups)
Poll Response: 73% answered yes and 27% answered no

Poll Question: Have you ever camped in a national or state park?
Poll Response: 80% have and 20% have not

Poll Question: Have you ever had a rodent problem with your RV?
Poll Response: 30% answered yes and 70% answered no.

Poll Question: Have you ever spent the night in a Wal-Mart parking lot?
Poll Response: 48% have and 52% have not.

Poll Question: When traveling by RV how often do you connect to the Internet? (every day, 2 or more times a week)
Poll Response: 69% responded every day and 31% responded 2 or more times a week

Poll Question: Who drives or tows the RV the most? (male, female, I travel alone)
Poll Response: 92% male, 4% female, 4% I travel alone

Poll Question: Did your RV come with a spare tire?
Poll Response: 73% yes and 27% no

Poll Question: Do you make advanced campground reservations?
Poll Response: 84% yes and 16% no.

Poll Question: Do you see closing state parks as a feasible method to decrease state budgets?
Poll Response: 10% said yes and 90% said no.

Poll Question: Is your RV financed?
Poll Response: 56% yes and 44% no

Poll Question: Do you have an RV Emergency Roadside Service Plan?
Poll Response: 84% do and 16% do not

Poll Question: On average, how many miles a day do you travel in, or tow your RV? (200 or less, 300, 400, 500 or more)
Poll Response: 18% 200 or less, 46% 300 miles, 27% 400 miles and 9% 500 or more.

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
RV Education 101
RV University
RV Orientation
Go for the RV Gold
Follow us on FACEBOOK
RV Consumer

Pre-winter RV Checks for the RV Consumer

As we head toward colder temperatures, I would like to suggest a few preventive maintenance checks to prepare your RV for the fall and winter camping seasons. Please don’t confuse these checks with winterizing your RV or preparing it for winter storage.

In no particular order, here are my top 7 pre-winter RV checks:
1. Inspect your RV batteries

Check all battery connections for secure mounting. Clean the batteries with a 50/50 mixture of baking soda and water, if necessary. If you have lead-acid batteries, check the electrolyte level in each cell and add distilled water, if necessary. Many older converter chargers provide a constant charge of approximately 13.5 volts, which is too high for fully-charged batteries and can cause the electrolyte to boiled off, resulting in an early death for the batteries.

Check water levels weekly, at a minimum, when using the RV. Test the battery state-of-charge and charge any batteries that are at or below 80 percent. A discharged or partially-charged battery will freeze much faster than a fully-charged battery. Use a digital voltmeter to measure voltage and get a quick picture of the batteries’ depth of discharge. If you don’t feel comfortable working on or around batteries, have a reputable RV service center perform battery maintenance for you.

Note: A 12-volt battery that is charged should read 12.5 to 12.7 volts. Readings less than 12.5 indicate the battery state of charge is below 80 percent and the battery needs to be charged. A 6-volt battery that is charged should read 6.25 to 6.37 volts. Readings below 6.25 indicate the battery state of charge is below 80 percent and the battery needs to be charged.

2. Test automotive antifreeze

The antifreeze in your tow vehicle or motorhome radiator should always have a 50- to 70-percent concentration of antifreeze to water. Water does a good job helping to cool an engine but it freezes quickly during cold winter temperatures. Water can also cause certain metals to rust and corrode over time. The proper concentration of antifreeze is necessary to provide freeze protection and chemical protection against corrosion.

To test the antifreeze, use quality test strips, a float-type hydrometer or a refractometer. A refractometer is the most accurate testing device.

Inspect all coolant hoses for signs of damage or leaks. Coolant hoses deteriorate from the inside out. Inspect all hoses for wear, cracks, soft spots, brittle areas and leaks. Inspect hose clamps for secure mounting and replace any damaged coolant hoses or clamps as required

3. Use a fuel stabilizer product like STA-BIL

Fuel stabilizers provide excellent protection against stale fuel during periods of storage. They contain corrosion inhibitors, remove water and help to clean fuel injectors. There are fuel stabilizers designed for use with gasoline and diesel engines. I use a fuel stabilizer in gas-powered lawn equipment, ATVs, boats, motorcycles and RVs.

4. Furnace checkup

One LP-gas appliance that gets overlooked during warm weather is the forced-air furnace. Most service requirements for the furnace need to be accomplished by a reputable RV service center, but there are a few things the owner can do to prepare the furnace for cold-weather operation.

The battery plays an important role in the proper operation of the furnace. Keeping lead-acid batteries watered and fully charged will prevent many furnace-related problems. Inspect furnace ducting that is above floor level for damage, such as crushed ducting or obstructions that could affect furnace operation. Make sure the furnace air return is not blocked or restricted. Test the operation of the furnace before the day arrives when you actually need it. Have a certified technician test your LP-gas system annually for proper appliance operating pressure and leaks.

5. Inspect all safety devices and replace all dry-cell batteries

Carbon monoxide is deadly. Test the CO detector, LP-gas leak detector and smoke alarm for proper operation every time you use your RV. Instruct individuals on symptoms and what to do if they are exposed to carbon monoxide or if they hear LP-gas leak detector alarms. Replace all dry-cell batteries when you change the settings on your clocks in the spring and fall. Make sure you have a charged fire extinguisher on hand and that you and other adults know how to operate it.

6. Clean, inspect and reseal your roof as necessary

Not that this is directly related to fall or winter use, but I like to inspect the roof twice a year, at a minimum, and I think spring and fall are good times of the year to make these checks.

Note: Exercise caution any time you work on the roof of your motorhome. The roof surface can be slippery and a fall can result in serious injury, or worse.

Clean your roof with an approved cleaner for the type of roofing material your motorhome has. Every time you clean the roof, inspect the sealants around all of the openings and the seams on the roof. Water will take the path of least resistance, and if there is the smallest opening, it will find it. Thoroughly inspect the roof sealants for potential leaks and reseal any areas of the roof seams and around openings where you suspect a leak. Make sure you use sealants compatible with your roofing material. Keep in mind that your warranty can be voided if you fail to perform some of these required inspections. Check your motorhome owner’s manual for roof inspection intervals.

7. Plan for non-use

If you don’t plan to use your RV over the fall and winter months, winterize the plumbing system to prevent freezing. Prepare all other systems for short or long-term storage.

Check out our Winterizing & Storing DVD
Winterizing & Storing E-book

Happy RV Learning,

Mark Polk
RV Education 101
RV University
RV Orientation
Go for the RV Gold
Follow us on FACEBOOK
RV Consumer

RV 101- RV Education 101 Tips for Improving Fuel Economy for the RV Consumer

Mark Polk, founder of RV Education 101 stated, “If there were 7 easy steps you could take to improve fuel economy in your RV and automobiles would you do it? Of course you would! So here they are:”


1) Check and replace your air filter if it’s dirty. A clean air filter can improve your fuel economy up to 10%.

2) Check and adjust your tire pressure to the proper pressure for the load. This alone can increase fuel economy by 3%, not to mention preventing premature tire wear and failures caused by over or under-inflated tires. Tires can look normal when they are seriously under-inflated. Use a quality air pressure gauge and check your tires when they are cold, before traveling more than one mile.

3) For every 5mph you travel over 60mph is equivalent to paying ten cents more per gallon at the pump. If you are traveling down the Interstate at 70 mph add twenty cents to the price at the pump! Speeding and rapid acceleration reduces fuel economy anywhere from 5 to 33% depending on your individual driving habits.

4) Keep your vehicles tuned up and in top running condition. A poorly tuned engine can lower fuel economy by 10 to 20%. Poor emissions and/or a faulty oxygen sensor can cause up to 40% reduction in fuel economy.

5) Following recommended service and maintenance schedules/intervals will save a significant amount of fuel.

6) Using synthetic oils can increase fuel economy by 2%.

7) Adding weight that you don’t need reduces fuel economy significantly. A friend once told me, if you haven’t used it in the last 6 months you don’t need it!

See, it really is easy to improve our fuel economy. Try following these 7 easy steps to improve your fuel economy. You, and your wallet, will be glad you did.

For more RV 101 educational information visit http://www.rveducation101.com/ and http://www.rvconsumer.com/

RV Education 101: The Largest Online Digital RV Training Provider

RV Education 101: The Largest Online Digital RV Training Provider

Learning RVs the Easy Way by RV E-Learning

Your premier online source for RV education! Mark Polk, the RV Savvy Guy and founder of RV Ed 101,
is recognized as THE foremost authority on professional RV training material. Mark will walk you through a comprehensive selection of online training programs that will simplify your personal RV training needs.

RV information where you want it, when you want it! It’s as easy as…

 

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    Mark’s RV Garage Internet TV Series
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    • Each episode of this hit series provides valuable RV information!

    RV Education 101 and RV Cooking Show Partner to Expand Offering to the RV Consumer

    Bookmark and Share

    Harrells, NC (April 1 3 , 2011) – Combining forces to offer RVing consumers a learning resource for using and maintaining their RVs as well as discovering interesting RV destinations and delicious dishes, RV Education 101 and RV Cooking Show aim to help RVers become RV savvy in more ways than one .

    RV Education 101 is the premier provider of educational videos, books and RV information and is also the producer of "Mark’s RV Garage", an internet television style how-to series teaching RVers the ins and outs of RVing . The RV Cooking Show, part RV travel guide, part cooking class on wheels shares information about not-to-be missed RV destinations and shows RVers how to create fantastic destination-related dishes in their own RV kitchens.

    Mark and Dawn Polk, RV Education 101 owners agree , “It’s a great fit for both of our audiences . There’s more to RVing than the RV itself. We want to offer technical information, but we also want to provide relevant information on the entire scope of RVing. The joint venture with RV Cooking Show is a great way to help educate consumers about many aspects of RVing and for people new to RVing to see firsthand what it’s all about.”

    “Partnering with industry experts such as the Polk’s is a tremendous benefit to our audience. Their experience in RV know-how paired with our traveling and dining expertise serves viewers a well-rounded diet of RV smarts,” remarked Evanne Schmarder, producer and host of the RV Cooking Show. “ We are absolutely delighted to be associated with RV Education 101 and Mark’s RV Garage.”

    Dawn adds, “RV Education 101 is the industry's voice on operational and safety issues and RV Cooking Show is the industry’s voice on destinations and location- related food preparation in the RV kitchen. RVers are hungry for both categories – travel and meal planning / preparation along with RV knowledge and information.”

    Go to RV Education 101

    and RV Cooking Show for more details

    ###

    About RV Education 101
    RV Education 101 produces professional RV how-to instruction training videos and DVD's, books and e-books on using and maintaining your Recreation Vehicle (RV). RV expert Mark Polk provide s viewers with as much RV information, tips and safety advice as possible includ ing RV walk through training and orientation videos, RV winterizing and storing, trailer towing, towing behind your motorhome, and essential RV items that you won’ t want to leave home without.

    About RV Cooking Show
    Part RV travel guide – part cooking class on wheels, the RV Cooking Show takes viewers on adventures to some of the most sought-after or interesting but little-known RV locales in the country and then creates healthy, easy, delicious destination-related dishes in host Evanne Schmarder’s RV kitchen.

    Media Contacts:
    E-mail: Dawn Polk

    E-mail: Evanne Schmarder

    Dawn Polk, RV Education 101, 910-484-7615
    Evanne Schmarder, RV Cooking Show, 702-460-9863



    Mark's RV Garage Internet TV Show




    Don't miss the first episode of Mark's RV Garage, with host Mark Polk, as he gives you an inside look into RV's, RV products, installations, RV destinations and much more. Go to RV Consumer on February 7, 2011 to view the first episode of Mark's RV Garage, and keep checking back for new episodes.

    Profit from RV Ownership /An Interview with Bert Alanko of MBA Insurance

    When I meet a new or potential RVer, one recommendation I make is for them to rent an RV before they purchase one. Renting an RV lets the consumer experience RVing firsthand and can be helpful in determining if RV ownership is right for them.

    Something I never really considered though was producing additional income by renting your RV after you buy it. That was until the other day when I was talking to Bert Alanko, President of MBA Insurance. Bert explained that RV rentals by owners are growing in popularity, especially during tough economic times. And, you not only get to enjoy the benefits of using your RV whenever you like, but you can produce additional income when it would normally be sitting in storage.

    Bert said, “RV rental can be true entrepreneurship. Someone can start with one vehicle and stay small, renting out their vehicle. Or as has happened, start with one vehicle and end up being a full scale dealership with sales, service, rentals, a showroom and a complete service center.”

    The thought of making additional income by renting the RV piqued my interest, so I started with the questions:

    Q1: Do you provide rental insurance for individually owned RV’s?
    Bert Alanko: Yes, we insure small, one unit, rental business to the larger 500 vehicle fleets.


    Q2: What do you base the rates on for individually owned RV’s?
    Bert Alanko: Our rates are based on the vehicle’s value and the geographical location of the RV. We write insurance in every state. MBA will provide an individual with the rental insurance necessary to cover the vehicle, the owner and the renter. It is very important if you are going to rent out your vehicle that you obtain the proper insurance coverage.

    Q3: How would an individual learn what is required to properly rent their RV out?
    Bert Alanko: We can provide the owner with state specific rental contracts, the check-in and check-out forms, and all the necessary forms that one has to have to start the business from the rental standpoint. They would need to contact local officials about any requirements from a business standpoint.

    Q4: Is it difficult for an RV owner to learn and operate a small rental operation?
    Bert Alanko: Not in my opinion. We also offer a Rental Operation Manual. This manual is a how-to book providing tips and suggestions that we have learned and are taught in our RV rental school. Yes, MBA puts on an annual RV rental school. This year will be our 12th annual rental school. It is taught by dealers who are currently in the RV rental business, and it’s a great way to learn the business.

    Q5: Now for the big question! Is renting an RV profitable for an individual?
    Bert Alanko: Renting an RV can be very profitable. Lots of folks make their monthly RV payment from income generated through renting their RV. I look at it like this; your RV isn’t making any money when it sits in storage, so why not put it to work for you.

    Q6: Is there anything else you can add about renting an RV for an additional source of income?
    Bert Alanko: MBA takes pride in not only selling the insurance – that is easy, but our specialty is providing the necessary information to our customers so they can make rentals profitable. Our insurance policy can be seasonal. One does not have to commit to a full year at a time. We have a wide range of programs to suit the needs of owners that are going to commit to rental on a long or short term basis.

    Q7: Thanks for all of this great information Bert. Where can RV owners go for more information about renting their RV?
    Bert Alanko: They can visit our website at http://www.mbainsurance.net/ or just call us toll-free in Arizona, 800- 622- 2201.

    So there you have it. If you would like to try your hand at renting your RV when you aren’t using it contact the folks at MBA insurance for more information.

    Take a minute to check out our brand new RV Consumer website at and be sure to register for our totally free RV Safety E-course while you are there.

    Happy RV Learning,

    Mark Polk
    RV Education 101
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    RV Education 101 Announces Launch of New RV Consumer Site

    Harrells, NC – December 2010 -- RV Education 101, founded in 1999, announced the launch of a new RV consumer training site today. The URL is http://www.rvconsumer.com/. Mark Polk, founder and co-owner of RV Education 101 said, “We have worked on this RV consumer site for several months now, and are extremely excited to finally launch it.


    Tagged as “The Ultimate RV Education Center” Polk says, “This site is a culmination of all of our RV training efforts over the past decade, and is a one stop RV training site for the entire RV consumer’s training needs. One day I realized that if I consolidated all of our RV training material into one RV training site, it would in fact be the premier RV education center.”

    The RV training material Polk is referring to is his 18-RV instructional DVD’s, 13-published RV E-books, 3-published RV books, 4-RV online training programs, hundreds of published RV articles, RV product installation videos and RV product reviews.

    Dawn Polk, co-owner and marketing director, said, “Our thought behind this new site was to organize the vast field of RV’s and RVing into six major categories and offer the RV consumer invaluable information in each of these areas. The six categories are: RV consumer training, RV consumer buying, RV consumer safety, RV consumer products, RV consumer articles and advice and last but certainly not least, enjoying your RV. To help promote our new site and to introduce our RV videos on demand online training program we are offering a free RV safety e-course to anybody that would like to take it. You can visit www.rvconsumer.com for more details on the free RV safety e-course.

    Polk’s other RV educational sites are http://www.rveducation101.com/ and http://www.rvuniversity.com/.  The primary focus of these RV training sites has been to educate RV owners on how to properly and safely use and maintain their RV, using visual and written training materials. RV Education 101 has helped educate more than a quarter of a million RV enthusiasts over the past decade.

    For more information on these RV educational sites visit www.rvconsumer.com, http://www.rveducation101.com/
     and http://www.rvuniversity.com/
                                                                                             xxx

    RVIA Trade Show in Louisiville 2010 Part 5

    If you own a Type A motorhome that was built on an F-53 Ford chassis this picture gives you an idea of what the chassis looks like before they start to manufacture the motorhome.


    This is what a Ford cutaway chassis looks like before they build a Type C motorhome on top of it.



    This is an interesting picture of the direction some hybrid trailers are going. Notice the extended bunk end on the side of the trailer as opposed to being in the front or rear of the trailer. Manufactured by Livin Lite.




    Slide-outs, slide-outs and more slide-outs. RV manufacturers, like this Fleetwood motorhome, keep finding new places to put slide-outs and we enjoy the added space they provide us.



    Happy RV Learning,

    Mark Polk
    RV Education 101
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    RVIA Trade Show in Louisiville 2010 Part 4

    Now that's a big front window. Be careful walking around inside when you get out of the shower! After further examination it did have a screen you could pull down.




    Here is a toy hauler with a comfortable rear living room. Don't forget to move the recliners and roll up the carpet before you pull the motorcycles or ATVs back in.



    This was a retro style Type A motorhome called the "Trip" that I saw at the Holiday Rambler display.




    One feature I was glad to see on some of the towables at the RVIA show was a wider stance axle, intended to help with trailer sway. Any improvement in the area of safety is great news for the consumer.


    Take a good look at what we know of today as a good tow vehicle. If things keep going the way they are these trucks may soon be a thing of the past! It will be like a phone booth when the next generation youth asks what that was the young parent will reply I think they called that a truck.





    Happy RV Learning,

    Mark Polk
    RV Education 101
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    RVIA Trade Show in Louisiville 2010 Part 3

    Talk about outdoor kitchens! The slide-out on this trailer was about 18 inches wide and not only can you watch football on the big screen, you can cook a thick juicy steak while your doing it. But if starts to rain I would move the tailgate party inside.

    You wouldn't know by looking at the picture, but this is the rear of a Fleetwood Type A motorhome. It has a sofa and TV for relaxing and when it's time to for bed the queen size bed drops down from the ceiling at the push of a button. Pretty neat huh?

    Onan had a display in Louisville of all of the generators they have produced for RV's over the years. I think this one was circa 1927. Don't forget the pull cord, this was long before they were equipped with electric starters.

    Something else I noticed in Louisville were Type A motorhomes that manufacturers brand as a Type A/C combination, like this Fleetwood product. As you are aware most Type C motorhomes have sleeping arrangements up front over the cab. These A/C combinations are equipped with a bed up front that drops down when you need it and stores against the ceiling when you don't. This actually used to be quite common many years ago. I guess it's like fashion, old styles always seem to come back again.

    Happy RV Learning,

    Mark Polk
    RV Education 101
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    More on Basic RV Electricity

    I received quite a few questions and comments on last month’s article, “Basic RV Electricity.” The questions and comments were very good and they addressed some RV electrical concerns I didn’t cover in the article. I thought that everyone could benefit from this information and decided to include it this month.

    Question: “What is a deep cycle battery?”

    Answer: RVs come equipped with deep cycle batteries for the coach. Most RVs come with a single Group 24 deep cycle battery. Deep cycle batteries are rated in amp/hours. How many amps the battery can deliver for how many hours before the battery is discharged. Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged over and over again and still take a charge. If you enjoy dry camping (without hook-ups) you depend on your deep cycle battery(s) to take care of your 12-volt needs. You can purchase a deep cycle battery with a higher amp/hour capacity that will last longer. The higher the amp/hour capacity is the larger the battery is. If you have room for a larger battery and enjoy dry camping you may want to consider a Group 27 or Group 31 deep cycle battery.

    Comment: “You did not cover inverters. I installed one in my motorhome because there are times when you want a little power for the TV or VCR and don’t want to crank the generator.”

    Reply: You are absolutely right. Inverters are nice to have at times when you are dry camping and/or when you don’t have access to 120-volts AC. Batteries produce power in Direct Current (DC) that run at low voltages. Power companies and AC generators produce sine wave Alternating Current (AC), which is used to operate 120-volt appliances and electronic equipment. An inverter takes 12-volt DC power from your RV batteries and electronically changes it to 120-volt AC. Some RVers use an inverter just to watch TV or for their personal computer. Other RVers use an inverter to operate microwaves, coffee pots or other larger appliances. When you purchase an inverter the inverter’s output capacity must be capable of operating the loads that will be placed on it.

    Inverters have two different capacity ratings. Continuous output rating and surge capacity rating. Continuous output is the maximum wattage the inverter can output for a long time period. Surge capacity is the maximum wattage the inverter can output during initial start up. All appliances require more power when they start, compared to what they use when they are running. They can use as much as two or three times the amount to start then what they use to run, so the starting power required for any appliance that you plan to use with the inverter must be within the surge capacity rating. There are modified sine wave inverters and true sine wave inverters. A true sine wave inverter is more expensive, but they are capable of producing power as good as the power company and all appliances and electronic equipment will run as they are intended to. Keep in mind you are drawing the power from your RV batteries and any power used has to be put back in through some type of effective charging system.

    Comment: This is a second comment from the same reader. “You need to tell your reader’s what to do when you only have 15 amps to plug in to, (usually at someone’s home and using the plug on their front porch) and you need the air conditioner.”

    Reply: I personally don’t recommend doing this, but I agree that it is possible, like you say to use the A/C if you are plugged in to a 15-amp outlet. If you do, you must exercise caution. When the A/C compressor engages it requires more amps (about 13) than it does once it is running. Because of this you need to turn all appliances off before starting the A/C, to include switching the refrigerator from A/C to LP gas. Once it is running it may be possible to use a small appliance or electronic equipment that operates on low amperage, like a TV, but you need to monitor the voltage to prevent damaging any appliances or electronic equipment.

    Comment: This is the third comment from the same reader. “You should also tell your reader’s that if they are using a long extension cord it must be #12 wire or lower, (heavier gauge) to keep the amount of voltage drop from causing problems.”

    Reply: You’re right again. If it is possible you should try to avoid using an extension cord when making electrical connections at the campground. The gauges of the wire used in standard household extension cords are not suitable for RV electrical hook-ups. Eventually you will be put in a situation where you will need to use an extension cord. It is a good idea to purchase an RV extension cord that is compatible to the electrical system of your RV, and have it on hand. If you do purchase an extension cord somewhere else I recommend 10-guage wire and use as short of a cord as possible.

    Question: “Will it hurt to leave the RV plugged in and the refrigerator on all of the time?”

    Answer: I leave my refrigerator on almost all of the time. The RV should be on level ground so the refrigerator operates properly and you will need to monitor it for when it needs to be defrosted. The only other concern with leaving the RV plugged in, not related to the refrigerator, is the coach battery. Whenever the RV is plugged in the coach battery is being charged. It's really just a trickle charge, but over time it can deplete the electrolyte levels in the battery cells. You need to check, or have somebody check the battery at least monthly when the RV is plugged in during storage.

    Question: “Is there any danger of damaging your system if you plug a 30-amp system into a 50-amp service using the proper adapter?”

    Answer: This is a controversial subject. Some people will argue that if they make an electrical adapter for it than it is safe. Others will argue that it is not safe to use a 50-amp service for a system designed for 30-amps or a 20-amp service for a 30-amp system. Electrical adapters are a necessity for RVers. Eventually you will be in a situation where you have to use some type of electrical adapter to make a connection at a campground. It may be an outdated campground or isolated area that only provides 15 or 20-amp electrical service, or the only site available is a 50-amp service for your 30-amp system. There are adapters that will go from your RV type plug and size down to household type outlets and adapters that go from household type outlets to all types of campground RV connections. It’s nice to have these adapters on hand when you need them, but you must exercise caution and use common sense when you use them. If you have a 30-amp system and you have to use a 50-amp service use your RV electrical system exactly the same way you do when you’re plugged into a 30-amp service. In other words don’t try to run anymore than you normally would. On the other hand if your RV is a 30-amp or 50-amp system and you use an adapter to plug the RV into a 15 or 20-amp outlet you severely limit what you can operate in the RV. In this situation you should only use what appliances or electronic equipment are absolutely necessary. If you place too much of a demand on electrical adapters, or use them for extended periods of time they can overheat and melt resulting in damage to the RV power cord or the electrical system.

    Question: “Sometimes the coach battery in our motorhome won’t start the generator and other times it will. My question is why isn’t the RV battery charger keeping my battery charged when I leave it plugged in all the time?”

    Answer: The battery charger in the RV converter provides a trickle charge and is only designed to keep the coach battery(s) topped off. It is not designed or capable of recharging a battery that is completely discharged or damaged. The automotive alternator also charges the coach battery when you are driving the RV. I would guess that the alternator is probably charging the battery enough to start the generator sometimes after driving for a while, but the RV battery charger can’t charge it enough to start the generator when it’s plugged in. The constant charging from leaving it plugged in all the time can deplete the electrolyte level in the battery(s) cells. Depending on how often the battery(s) is being charged will determine how often it needs to be checked. You should check the battery(s) at least monthly and if you use the RV on a regular basis and / or you leave it plugged in when you’re not using it you may need to check the battery(s) more often.

    I hope these reader’s questions and comments are helpful to you and quite possibly might answer some questions that you had about basic RV electricity.

    Happy RV Learning,

    Mark Polk
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    RV Electric 101 - Basic RV Electricity

    One of the most common questions and concerns I receive is about the RV electrical system. Most people ask if I can explain the RV electrical system in simple to understand terms. The electrical system in your RV can seem complex and confusing until you have a basic understanding of how it works. Your RV actually has three separate electrical systems. It has a 12-volt DC automotive system, a 12-volt DC coach system, and a 120 volt AC coach system. We are primarily concerned with the 12-volt DC and 120 volt AC coach systems.

    The majority of campgrounds you go to will provide you with an external 120 volt electric source to plug into. Your RV has a heavy-duty power cord that is normally about 25 feet long. Depending on the type of RV you have, or purchase, it will either be a 30 Amp or 50 Amp system. When you plug into the proper campground electrical source it will supply power throughout your RV. You must have a 120 Volt AC power source if you are going to use the microwave, roof air conditioner, the refrigerator in the electric mode and the 120 Volt electrical outlets. For the most part everything else in the camper works off of 12-volt DC power. When you are plugged in at the campground a portion of the 120 volt AC current is converted to 12-volt DC current for the items in the RV that work off of 12 volts. Some of these items are the overhead lights, the furnace fan, and the fan over the range, the vent fan in the bathroom, the water pump, LP gas leak detector, stereo, and the refrigerator when it’s in the LP gas mode. If you look at the RV’s power distribution panel you will see circuit breakers like you have in your house for the 120-volt AC side, and automotive style blade fuses for the 12-volt DC side.

    If you are not plugged into an external power source you can still use the 12-volt DC system if you have a 12-volt deep cycle marine battery on your unit. As long as the battery or batteries are charged you can use everything in the RV except the microwave, roof air conditioner, the refrigerator in the electric mode and the electrical outlets. If you have a motorhome, or you’re going to purchase a motorhome, it will have a battery for the automotive system and an auxiliary battery for the coach system. The coach battery is charged whenever the motorhome is running; the generator is running, or when it’s plugged into an external electrical source.

    Before we go any further I would like to offer a few basic battery maintenance tips to keep your RV batteries in top operating condition.

    First of all never work around batteries with an open flame. Vapors from the batteries can ignite, causing serious damage. To prevent the possibility of arcing turn off any 12 Volt power sources and disconnect the negative battery cable before working on or around the batteries. If you have a maintenance free battery you will not be able to perform some of these checks. The color of the eye on the battery will indicate the condition of a maintenance free battery. Consult your owner’s manual for more information on maintenance free batteries.

    Constant charging depletes electrolyte levels in batteries. Inspect electrolyte levels and add distilled water as required. Add water until it reaches the split-level marker in each cell. Do not overfill.
    Inspect all battery cable and terminal connections. Keep all connections clean and tight. Do not over tighten. When battery terminals are clean and tight on the battery post spray the terminals with a battery terminal protector to prevent corrosion.
    To clean the battery itself use a diluted baking soda and water solution. After cleaning the battery flush it thoroughly with water.

    Check the state of charge and keep batteries fully charged. Specific gravity readings for a charged battery should be between 1.215 & 1.250. If you remove the batteries for storage charge them to a full charge and check them periodically during storage. Re-charge as necessary. Follow proper charging instructions for the type of battery. Deep cycle batteries require a lower amp charge over a longer period of time.

    There are numerous electronic devices and equipment in your RV that can drain the coach battery when you’re not using the RV. Some examples are; the TV antenna booster, the LP gas leak detector, clocks in radios, or just leaving a 12-volt light on by accident. If your RV is not equipped with a battery disconnect switch you can purchase a battery disconnect, from an RV dealer, that can be installed directly on the battery post. When you aren’t using the RV or have no requirement for the coach battery you simply raise a lever and disconnect the battery. A battery disconnect can be installed on the chassis battery too.

    Lastly, if you are not comfortable performing the maintenance on your RV batteries have it done by a qualified service center.

    Motorhomes also provide an additional source of 120 volt AC power with an onboard power generator. This unique feature offers you the convenience of 120-volt AC power whenever you need it, making the unit fully self-contained. The fuel supply for the generator comes directly from the motor home fuel tank. The system is designed so that when the fuel tank gets to 1/4 tank full the generator will stop running so it doesn’t use all of the fuel in the motor home. Some motor homes have an automatic switch over from an external power supply to the generator. Other motor homes require you to plug the motor home power cord into a generator receptacle on the motor home to use the generator.

    I would also like to give you a few tips about RV electricity. To start with a 30 Amp system is the most common on RV’s. The plug on your RV is a large three-prong, heavy duty 30 Amp, 120-volt plug.

    Most campgrounds you go to will provide you with a 30 Amp outlet that your RV power cord will plug directly into. If you go to a campground that has a regular house type outlet there are adapters that you can use to go from your RV plug to the house type outlet. When you do this you are plugging into a 15 Amp or 20 Amp power source. This means you will be limited as to what appliances you can run in your RV. It is even possible to damage some appliances if they are not getting the required amperage to operate properly. Let’s say for example you plug into a 15 Amp outlet and you are using a small appliance that is drawing 5 Amps, that leaves you with 10 Amps. Now you turn the roof air conditioner on and when the air conditioner compressor engages it needs about 13 Amps, but it’s not available, and it damages the air conditioner compressor.

    Even with a 30 Amp service you need to be selective about what you are using. If you try to use too much the RV will let you know by tripping a breaker in the distribution box and hopefully no harm will be done. There is a short formula that may help you with this. 30 Amps X 120 Volts = 3600 watts. This is the total amount of power you can use before you overload the system. Think of it like this, with 3600 watts you could use 36 one hundred watt light bulbs. When you turn on the 37th light you will probably trip a breaker.

    It is also a good idea to take a voltmeter along with you that you can plug right into one of the outlets. Campground electricity varies depending on the demand placed on it. If everybody is running his or her air conditioner the voltage may drop below an acceptable level, and it would be wise to wait until it is restored back to normal. You can glance at the voltmeter every time you walk by it and save yourself untimely and costly repairs to your RV appliances. Voltage below 105 volts or above 135 volts can damage electronic equipment and appliances.

    Most appliances will tell you what the required wattage or amperage is to run the appliance. Here is the amperage draw for some common RV appliances and electronics.

    •Coffee maker - 8.3 amps

    •Converter - 8 amps

    •Hair dryer - 9 to 12 amps

    •Microwave - 13 amps

    •Refrigerator - 2.8 amps

    •Roof a/c 13.5 amps

    •TV - 1.5 amps

    •Toaster - 8 to 10 amps

    •VCR - 2 amps

    •Electric skillet- 6 to 12 amps

    Hopefully this will provide you with a better basic understanding of how your RV electrical system works.

    Happy RV Learning,

    Mark Polk
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